[sdiy] grounding sheilded wire?

[patchell]

    That is pretty bizzare...

    Anyway, here is the part number: c1228-1000

    That is for 1000 feet.  c1228-100 should get you to a 100 foot roll and
c1228-500 should get you to a 500 foot roll.

    I will cut off a small piece and run it through my scanner and post it so
you can see what it looks like.

    I know that cable like this is sort of a personal thing...one man's cable is
another man's pain in the neck...

Ian Fritz wrote:

> Jim --
>
> That link doesn't work (expired). Could you post a part number? Thanks!
>
>   Ian
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Patchell" <patchell at silcom.com>
> To: "Larry" <ltroth at socal.rr.com>; <synth-diy at dropmix.xs4all.nl>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2001 1:55 PM
> Subject: Re: [sdiy] grounding sheilded wire?
>
> > Here is the cable I purchased:
> > http://www.digikey.com/scripts/us/dksus.dll?Detail?Ref=15008&Row=89346
> >
> >     I like the look of it.  It seems like it should be pretty easy to
> use...and it
> > does have a drain wire, I checked when I was at home for lunch.
> >
> >     They also sell it in 500 and 100 foot spools, for those who are not
> quite as
> > crazy as I am.
> >
> >     -Jim
> >
> > Jim Patchell wrote:
> >
> > >     Larry...
> > >
> > >     Here is what I use (or will on my next project, to be started in
> just a
> > > couple of weeks).  I purchased a roll of "microphone cable".  This is
> two
> > > conductor shielded cable.  But, I have a different set of requirements
> from you,
> > > most likely.
> > >
> > >     I require the conductors to be 24ga, because I use crimp on
> terminals where
> > > they come off my PC boards (I hate to hard wire to circuit cards as this
> makes
> > > working on them very difficult).  I am so dedicated to crimp on
> terminals I
> > > actually spent my hard earned money to by a good crimping tool (and it
> was worth
> > > every cent I spent on it, even though it put a big dent in my credit
> card).  I
> > > use one wire for hot, the other for the ground return, and the shield is
> > > connected to the panel.  This seems to work for me.
> > >
> > >     Anyway, I don't remember the model number of the wire (I got it from
> > > Digikey), but it is sort of thin, about 1/8", and it is flexible.  I
> don't think
> > > it had a drain wire though, well, you can't have everything.  1000 feet
> cost me
> > > about $120.
> > >
> > >     I am going home at lunch, so, I will get the part number then and
> post it so
> > > you can at least consider it.
> > >
> > >     -Jim
> > >
> > > Larry wrote:
> > >
> > > > Okay, I'm new and I admit it.  So my, probably heard it a thousand
> times
> > > > before, question is: What type of shielded wire should I get?
> > > >
> > > > I now know to connect the shield at the PCB, and cover the unconnected
> > > > shield at the front panel to prevent accidents.  But what kind of
> cable
> > > > should I buy?  (I presume RG-59 is NOT a good choice.)
> > > >
> > > > Actually, what is a good choice of cable for patching when using:
> > > > Banana Plugs?
> > > > 1/8" Jacks?
> > > > 1/4" Jacks?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks to everyone for all the interesting discussions on circuits in
> the
> > > > list recently.  I might finally learn to understand all this analog
> stuff
> > > > at last...  (Thick as my head is, things do, eventually, soak in.)
> > > >
> > > > Larry Troth
> > > >
> > > > At 09:35 PM 10/1/01 -0400, you wrote:
> > > > >Its still a good idea to ground the shield at one end... even for the
> > > > >"tip only" type plugs. This will minimize capacative coupling between
> > > > >the wires.  Terminate the shield at the PCB end... and leave the
> jacks
> > > > >connected only by the center conductor. I like a little piece of heat
> shrink
> > > > >tubing at this end to make things pretty.
> > > > >
> > > > >H^) hary
> > > > >
> > > > >Dave Krooshof wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > > >But I wonder
> > > > > > >how I am supposed to ground the sheild, do I just connect one end
> to
> > > > > ground
> > > > > > >and leave the other end floating?
> > > > > > Ideally, each module of your synth is grounded in only one way.
> > > > > > This means that if you connect the shield of your wire to
> > > > > > ground on both ends, that your likely to have more then one
> > > > > > ground lead, simply because you'll probably connect more then one
> > > > > > lead to a module, and you might have chosen to connect it to
> ground
> > > > > > internally as well.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > What you can do, is to make a central ground somewhere in the
> > > > > > middle of your box. Then you connect each module's ground to that.
> > > > > > (like a star) The female connectors of your modules are grounded
> > > > > > to the modules ground.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Then your wires. In a jack plug, I'd connect the shield to one
> connector.
> > > > > > I'd leave it unconnected on the other side. This way, you won't
> > > > > > connect two "beams" of the "star". I might be wrong, but a banana
> plug
> > > > > > doesn't have a ground ring, does it? What I call a banana plug is
> a
> > > > > > one-tip-only thing.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I do not know is shielding is of much use then. It might even work
> as
> > > > > > a small capacity... Do you happen to have any hum/hf problems
> > > > > > that make you want to shield?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > >is it ok to just have wires
> > > > > > >tapping ground with loose (ie not connected to anything) ends?
> > > > > > >or does it need to go in some sort of continuous loop?
> > > > > > Synths differ from "guitars with effects" in the fact that
> > > > > > guitarist tend to patch modules in a line...
> > > > > > guitar-->fuzz-->wah-->flanger-->chorus-->amp.
> > > > > > They connect the shielding to earth in the amp, so everything
> > > > > > inline is grounded.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ...and synthesizer players tend to build networks, in which their
> > > > > > modules can be connected in more then 2 ways. If you'd choose
> > > > > > to ground all shieldings of your wires on both ends, you'd make
> > > > > > loops in the grounding. Ground-loops are a problem because they
> > > > > > behave like a dynamo: The alternating magnetic fields of
> > > > > > electricity in your house will generate some current flowing
> > > > > > in your groundloop (a simple coil). Hummmmmmm....
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Dave
> > > > > >
> > > > > > BTW in the studio-control room, I can patch the mixerconsole
> > > > > > to either the studio, the theater, or the dance theatre. I
> > > > > > measured their grounds... 4 volt AC. I decided to connect a led.
> > > > > > I glowed! In the building are 3 rods in the ground to ground
> > > > > > the building. The Amsterdam soil is a battery...
> >

--
 -Jim
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