[sdiy] Machining aluminum, part deux

Scott Evans, Gen Mgr esresource at earthlink.net
Fri Apr 19 00:43:38 CEST 2002


Cutting oil works well for steel. For aluminum, use just plain old
kerosine.

Scott

Jim Patchell wrote:
> 
> Dave Magnuson wrote:
> 
> >
> > I think this might prematurely wear your bits.  I realize that aluminum is
> > fairly soft, but heat is the number one killer of drill bits.  I'd still
> > use perhaps an 1/8" or 3/16" pilot hole before going to the full sized
> > hole... it just has the bit doing a little less work, and stays cooler.
> >
> 
>     The best way to deal with drill bit heat is to use cutting oil...and,
> premium drill bits...although, the ones I use to drill panels are not
> premimum...(Like I said in an earlier post, I prefer brad tipped drills, which
> are really difficult to find in a premium grade).
> 
>     The cutting oil does make a bit of a mess, but it really does improve the
> quality of the cut.  Plus, you don't have to wait for things to cool.  I use
> the same cutting oil as I do when I use my lathe...where you need it...it
> really impresses people when I cut steel with a carbide tip with all the smoke
> that fills the room.
> 
> >
> > Obviously, drill RPM and feeding speed are also factors in heat build up.
> > Likewise, don't drill 40 holes in rapid succession... let your bits cool
> > off ocassionally.
> >
> > Personally, I center punch, drill a 1/8" pilot hole, and then use a
> > step-drill or "Uni-bit" to enlarge to full size.  Gentle pressure on the
> > drill, and allowing it to cool every 5 or 6 holes.  I've had the same $30
> > Uni-bit for 3 years and it still cuts like new (I also use it on 16ga steel
> > and light gauge stainless).  An added benefit: after the hole is the
> > correct size, you can use the next sized step to chamfer the edge of the
> > hole...  Saves a lot of time.
> >
> > Dave Magnuson
> >
> > Resonant Frequency:
> > resfreq at hoohahrecords.com
> > http://www.hoohahrecords.com/resfreq/index.html



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