[sdiy] patch cables?

[media.nai at rcn.com]

>I have this love / hate relationship with Neutrik 1/4" phone plugs.

In my case it's all love :)

I have a strict policy that all new cables must have Neutrik ends.

There are three reasons for this:

1) Neutrik connectors have VASTLY SUPERIOR STRAIN RELIEF.
2) Neutrik are consistent -- unlike Switchcraft they've never made plugs in
Mexico, or dumped surplus military plugs with different specs.
3) Their 1/4" plugs are slightly larger in diameter, so they fit better.

>I love the quality of the Neutrik plug, the way it fits together, and the
>strain relief method.  I like the tapered body as you can grip them more
>easily when un-plugging.

So do I.  Although I have run into equipment with jacks so close together
two Neutrik plugs wouldn't fit side by side.

>However, I hate to solder them.  They made such a great plug, easy to
>install, and then made them very difficult to solder. The tip connection
>point is OK, but there is no specific attachment lug for the shield, just a
>"general area".

>From what I've heard, the reason it has a "general area" (a semicircular
arc) is to make a better connection with braided shields that do not have a
drain.  That way you can just push unjacketed the braid over, without the
risk of having it unravel and cause a short.  Then again, I don't use
cables without drains -- I'm not a guitar player :)

>You solder the shield anywhere along a part of the metal partially
>>surrounding the tip connection.  You cannot solder the wire to the
>outside of the metal as it impedes the cover fit.

Right.

>When you solder it to the inside, you are very close to the tip connection
>>and have no real easy method to insert any insulating tape to prevent any
>>inadvertent bridges.  Am I just missing the point on these otherwise
>>wonderful plugs, or are they really a total PITA to solder as I see them.

The tip connections are short.  The plug frames are long.  If you want to,
you have enough room to slide a _short_ length of heat shrink tubing over
the center conductors, and then with the jack pointing upwards, solder the
center conductors then slide up the heat shrink tubing, shrink it, then
solder the shield.

However, I am not aware of any commercial cable manufacturers (ProCo,
Clarke, Whirlwind) that do this, even with cables using twisted pairs
(Quad-4, Mink-4, etc.)  Nor do I think it is necessary.  There should be no
inadvertent bridges if the wires are stripped cleanly, and cut to the right
length.  You don't want any slack -- that's one of the advantages of having
superior strain relief.  In my experience, most shorts are caused by the
improper stripping of stranded wire, leaving some of the strands too short
and free to move around.  Pre-tinning might also help.  Afaik, most
commercial manufactures use "solder pots".

Otoh, all of them add heat shrink tubing under the strain relief, over
shouldered over the end of the cables outermost jacket and the unjacketed
(and unfoiled) inner conductors.  This improves the strain relief.  So if
the plug gets twisted against the cable, it won't pull the drain
(maintaining the relative lengths of the conductors inside the plug
preventing inadvertent bridges) or stretch open gaps if used with a braided
shield.

If that still sounds like a PITA, not once have I ever had a Neutrik end go
bad.  I cannot say that about Switchcraft.  Imho, they are more than worth
the extra cost.