[sdiy] patch cables?

[Stephen Begin]

I'm starting to regret ordering the 100 phone plugs that are waiting to be
picked up at a local store...
ah well, neutrik will have to wait until i get another job.
-Steve


----- Original Message -----
From: "Simon" <simon at austarmetro.com.au>
To: <synth-diy at dropmix.xs4all.nl>
Cc: <jlarryh at iquest.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 25, 2002 9:28 AM
Subject: Re: [sdiy] patch cables?


> >  >I have this love / hate relationship with Neutrik 1/4" phone plugs.
> >
> >In my case it's all love :)
>
> I sleep with my Neutrik connectors.
>
>
> >I have a strict policy that all new cables must have Neutrik ends.
>
> I do the same, Neutrik connectors (1/4" jack, xlr, rca, bantam,
> long-frame) and Canare cable.
>
> I haven't seen any other plugs that come near the quality of the
> Neurik connector design.
>
>
> >  >However, I hate to solder them.  They made such a great plug, easy to
> >  >install, and then made them very difficult to solder.
>
> After a few hundred you will get a good system going.
>
>
> >  >When you solder it to the inside, you are very close to the tip
connection
> >>>and have no real easy method to insert any insulating tape to prevent
any
> >>>inadvertent bridges.  Am I just missing the point on these otherwise
> >>>wonderful plugs, or are they really a total PITA to solder as I see
them.
>
> If you prep the cable well then I don't think you need to insulate
> the shield, it isn't going to move around inside the plug.
>
>
> >There should be no
> >inadvertent bridges if the wires are stripped cleanly, and cut to the
right
> >length.  You don't want any slack -- that's one of the advantages of
having
> >superior strain relief.
>
> If you buy the connectors by the box, they come with a diagram
> showing where to strip and cut the different layers of the cable to
> fit the various plugs. Maybe ask your supplier for the diagram or
> look on the Neutrik website. Follow this and they fit well.
>
>
> >In my experience, most shorts are caused by the
> >improper stripping of stranded wire, leaving some of the strands too
short
> >and free to move around.  Pre-tinning might also help.
>
> It's all about prep.
>
> Strip and cut the layers to the correct length. I unpick the braided
> shield with a small jewellers screwdriver and then twist it into a
> neat single wire, then cut it to the correct length as per the
> diagram.
>
> Pre-tin the wires. Tin the wires well, right up to the jackets, with
> wires twisted into a neat point.
>
> Pre-tin the solder points on the plug. Fill up the tip cup with
> solder, make sure there is enough heat for a good solder connection.
> Put a decent sized blob of solder for the shield connection on one
> side of the shield connection part.
>
> Then solder the pre-tinned wire into the pre-tinned plug, so that you
> don't need as much heat on the cable as you would if not pre-tinning
> both.
>
>
> I have a short length of wood, 4x2, that has female 1/4" jack and
> male/female xlr panel mount sockets in the sides of it. I have a 1/4"
> socket on the top and on the side of this piece of wood, to hold the
> plugs while I'm soldering. I put the plug in the top socket when
> filling up the tip cup, and on the front when putting on the shield
> blob of solder. And the same when joining the cable to the plug, in
> the top for the tip making sure the shield wire lines up with the
> solder blob on the plug, then move the plug to the front socket for
> the shield. There are also a couple of alligator clips mounted to the
> wood to hold cables and other sized parts, and I have drawn markers
> onto the wood to measure the cable end and wires to the correct
> lengths. I use a blunt box-cutter blade to strip the wire, pressing
> the wire lightly onto the wood, while turning the wire. I find this
> gives a much cleaner cut than any wire-strippers that I have tried.
>
>
> >If that still sounds like a PITA, not once have I ever had a Neutrik end
go
> >bad.  I cannot say that about Switchcraft.  Imho, they are more than
worth
> >the extra cost.
>
> Yep, only problems I have had are due to not having enough heat for
> the solder to make a proper connection, ending up with a dry joint,
> and because people making cables previously hadn't tinned all the way
> up to the jackets so that there are fraying broken wires.
>
>
>
> Simon
> Canberra
> AUSTRALIA
>


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