[sdiy] custom faceplates etc...

Mon Sep 22 17:25:06 CEST 2003

Hello Everyone,
It may be possible to anodize at home. I am sure that a suitable resist
could be applied prior to the dyeing process to create the legend. Either
positive or negative.

http://www.caswellplating.com/index.html

- MB

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-synth-diy at dropmix.xs4all.nl
[mailto:owner-synth-diy at dropmix.xs4all.nl]On Behalf Of Raymond Wilson
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2003 8:41 AM
To: synth-diy at dropmix.xs4all.nl
Subject: RE: [sdiy] custom faceplates etc...

Hi All

On Faceplates. I am the penultimate lazy person when it comes to faceplates
as you can see by looking at any of my blurry synth photos but... I have
come up with an idea. I tried the blue sheets sold by Circuit Specialists
and All Electronics that you print your pattern on as a positive and then,
believe it or not, iron on to a circuit board. Well anyway it actually works
and you get good resolution and 5 mil line widths. Well I etched it and then
I wanted to remove the resist. I thought a little alcohol would do..
nothing. OK then acetone.. scrubbing steel wool, sand blasting... (OK I
exagerate) but anyway it sticks really well. So next I'm going to try to
iron it on to an aluminum faceplate. If it works BINGO I will start to make
cool looking faceplates. I'll let you know how it comes out and even post a
blurry photo of it when I'm done.

I used to have the whole silk screening set up including a vacuum frame and
arc lamp for developing "Blue Poly" masking material. But even then you need
to use an epoxy ink if you want the markings to stay put for a long time and
it is a pain when all you want is one plate. So... thats why one plate costs
so much. After the first one, screening more takes about 10 seconds each.

Cheers

Ray

-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Grenader [mailto:peter at buzzclick-music.com]
Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2003 11:54 PM
To: Craig Critchley; synth-diy at dropmix.xs4all.nl
Subject: Re: [sdiy] custom faceplates etc...

Yeah, the aluminum shows through and yeah, it does look white even when
looking at it which is just what the doctor ordered as this particular
Milton was for a Wiard owner.

I much prefer these permanent marking methods (laser, photo-anodizing) over
silkscreening.  My one attempt at screening was disastrous.  It cost me a
bloody fortune and was all falling off within a month.

If I were ever to go into the synth building biz, I would commit myself..NO!

I would go with these permanent marking methods for the production units .
Serge, Modcan and Cynthia gots the right idea. Life is too short to have
units returned for bad markings or worse, NOT returned and out there looking
like crap.

Peter

Craig Critchley wrote:

> That does look nice.
>
> Does the lettering come out aluminum-colored? It looks white in the
picture,
> but I was assuming the laser just zaps off the anodization.
>
> ...Craig
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Peter Grenader" <peter at buzzclick-music.com>
> To: "Craig Critchley" <craigc at nwlink.com>; "James Patchell"
> <patchell at cox.net>; "James R. Coplin" <moog at qwest.net>;
> <synth-diy at dropmix.xs4all.nl>
> Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2003 9:42 PM
> Subject: Re: [sdiy] custom faceplates etc...
>
>
>> Flawlessly.  I have uploaded a picture.  Unfortunately, it's a little
soft
>> (the picture, not the graphics) as you can see by the blurred start/stop
>> buttons - but I'm sure you can get the idea.  This is laser etching of a
>> blue anodized aluminum panel.  If you run your finger over the graphics,
> you
>> can't even feel them.
>>
>> here ya go:
>>
>> http://www.buzzclick-music.com/laser_milton.jpg
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> How did the laser engraving come out? I've been thinking of canvassing
> the
>>> local engraving outfits to see if any of them will do that for me at a
>>> reasonable price. Has anybody tried having a painted panel laser-marked?
>>>
>>> ...Craig
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: "Peter Grenader" <peter at buzzclick-music.com>
>>> To: "James Patchell" <patchell at cox.net>; "James R. Coplin"
> <moog at qwest.net>;
>>> <synth-diy at dropmix.xs4all.nl>
>>> Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2003 6:32 PM
>>> Subject: Re: [sdiy] custom faceplates etc...
>>>
>>>
>>>> I just got a .062 17 x 7 inch aluminum  panel cut at one place
> (Industrial
>>>> Metal, Inc) brushed finished at a second (Metalcratfers Polishing), and
>>> blue
>>>> anodized and laser etched at a third place (K&L Plating) and the total
> ran
>>> a
>>>> little bit over $180 for the one piece.  The only variable cost was the
>>> of
>>>> panel meterial itself.  The finishing, plating and engraving were set
> per
>>>> job costs. All three of those places are in Burbank, CA. K&L does not
>>> speak
>>>> Mac, but they use Correl Draw ver. 10 and that can deal with PDFs from
> a
>>>> Mac.
>>>>
>>>> This price is with NO HOLES however.
>>>>
>>>> For straight spot anodized graphics via photo sensitive aluminum, I use
>>>> Photo-graphics at:
>>>>
>>>> Photo-Graphics Co., Inc.
>>>> 5100C Martha Truman Rd.
>>>> Grandview, MO 64030
>>>> (816)761-3333 ph
>>>> (816)761-3032 fax
>>>>
>>>> A single .062 panel,  24 x 12 inch, cut perfectly into as many pieces
> as
>>> you
>>>> can fit,  brush or satin finished, black anodized graphics, no holes:
> $172
>>>> plus the cost of film.  If you want them to do the film from a file,
> add
>>>> $60. They speak Mac and PC. VERY reliable ten day turnaround once they
> get
>>>> the film or file. Add 50% for a three day rush.  The can only anodize
>>> black.
>>>> They will do drilling, but on the only thing I had them quote (Milton)
>>> was
>>>> expensive.  But that has what - 45 trillion holes or something - or at
>>> least
>>>> it seems it when you drill one.
>>>>
>>>> wrist still hurts...
>>>>
>>>> hope this helps,
>>>>
>>>> Peter
>>>>
>>>
>>
>

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