[sdiy] SH-101 repair question
Michael Bacich
weareas1 at earthlink.net
Mon Apr 3 09:16:47 CEST 2006
On Apr 2, 2006, at 11:15 PM, Mikael Mørup wrote:
> Maybe i should just reflow all solderpionts like Rude66 did with
> he's :-)
Yes, that is exactly what you should do. Just do it. It's easy,
cheap, and painless. While you're at it, resolder every connection
on the whole board. What have you got to lose? Think of it as
insurance against future failures. Really.
Your instrument was soldered in the factory on a crappy wave
soldering machine, which left just barely enough solder on the
connections to hold the parts in place and allow the circuit to work,
but certainly not enough solder to withstand 10 to 20 years of
rocking and rolling.
When are people going to finally start getting it that 90% of
electronic problems are electromechanical problems? When things stop
working, the first thing people suspect is some sort of major chip
failure. After that, some kind of mysterious, inexplicable passive
component failure. In most cases, both of these are very, very
unlikely.
Compared to cold solders, broken wires, dirty contacts, etc. --
actual failed components are extremely rare. Even the mythical
electrolytic capacitors that are "so old that they're ready to
fail". Naturally, there are plenty of anecdotal stories to the
effect of "I replaced the capacitor and the LFO started working
again!" Guess what, newbies? It wasn't the new capacitor that fixed
that LFO, it was the simple act of soldering another one in! You
would have most likely gotten the same result by simply reflowing
solder on the old capacitor.
Yes, I know that components do fail, sometimes even unlikely passives
such as resistors (Harry B. claims to have had to replace many
mysteriously failed resistors in his Prophet V at one time, and he
definitely knows the difference between a cold solder and a bad
part). Remember, I did say 90%. But anyone who has done a LOT of
repairs knows exactly what I'm talking about, and though they may
quibble about the exact percentage, they wouldn't argue my basic point.
One more thing while I'm still perched on this soapbox -- There is
something to be said about NOT replacing old parts with new ones in
an old unit (unless they are definitely proven bad). That is, the
old parts have a History of Reliability, the new ones don't. Think
about it.
Anyway, good luck with the repair, Mikael. If you determine that you
really, really do have a bad capacitor in there, congratulations. I
will still stand by my rant, and by the 90% statistic that I,
admittedly, pulled from my ass. Keep in mind, though, that it's a
very experienced ass. Wait a minute, that didn't sound right....
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