AVR-Chat

Yeah, I have three DMM's around here - one I paid about $100 for 30 years
ago (I forget the brand), a $25 cheapie and a newer Fluke.
Actually, the first one mentioned would work out best because I found out
the Fluke has some kind of sample rate on the continuity test and may miss a
very short duration short-circuit. I discovered this when I wrote a Morse
code beacon keyer program for an AVR and tried to test it with the Fluke
generating beeps. It all came out garbled Morse. When I used the first one,
it beeped just fine.

Zack


On Sun, Jan 10, 2010 at 11:02 AM, Andrew Mathison <
andrewdavid.mathison@freenet.de> wrote:

>
>
> Dear Zack Widup
>
> the idea is really good if the meter has some quality to it, some of the
> cheaper ones I have (ok to check a voltage etc) used may not work well
> enough i feel.....
> The AND gate version should work at speeds far in excess of the human
> finger speeds.....but is more work to make......I would still use your idea
> first!!!
>
> Many thanks
>
> Andy
> ---------------------------------------
>
> Another way to go about this is just to connect a digital multimeter with a
> continuity "beep" function across the outer switch terminals and flip the
> switch back and forth. If you don't hear a "beep" it's break before make.
>
> I have a quantity of DPDT on-off-pressure*on (in one position the switch
> stays on and in the opposite position when you release pressure on it, it
> goes back to center). They are of unknown origin; I believe I got them from
> All Electronics. They are all break-before-make.
>
> Zack
>
> On Sat, Jan 9, 2010 at 8:21 PM, MoreOrLess <Brewskister@gmail.com<Brewskister%40gmail.com>>
> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In AVR-Chat@yahoogroups.com <AVR-Chat%40yahoogroups.com> <AVR-Chat%
> 40yahoogroups.com>, "Steve
>
> > Hodge" <steve@...> wrote:
> > >
> > > Thanks, Mike. The part is a DPDT on-on toggle, Mountain Switch p/n
> > > 108-0043-EVX, which is also the Mouser p/n. I have the odd feeling that
> > > Mountain Switch and Mouser are related, not just by identical p/n's but
> > also
> > > by the fact that a google on the former always leads to the latter.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Steve
> > >
> >
> > I have taken switches like that apart and all have had an arm with
> contacts
> > on both sides goes back and forth, to and fro, with the movement of the
> bat
> > handle. Not being able to be two places at the same time... You get the
> > picture.
> >
> > That said, if you took a low current fuse, say 1/10 or 1/100 amp job and
> > connected a battery post through the fuse and to one of the outside
> > terminals of the switch, then the other outside terminal of the switch
> back
> > to the other post of the battery.
> >
> > Now flipped the switch back and forth, how many times, pick a number, 1,
> 10
> > or 100, the fuse will still be good. Two possibilities. One, its break
> > before make. Two, the switch never makes long enough to blow the fuse but
> > that I think is unlikely. The make before break would never be long
> enough
> > to do any good, so what would be the use.
> >
> > Good luck and don't burn the house down,
> > Mike
> >
> >
> >
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
> Greetings from
>
> Andy Mathison
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>  
>


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