AVR-Chat

On Sun, 19 Mar 2006, Kathy Quinlan wrote:

> Ned Konz wrote:
> >
> > SparkFun Electronics went through this process themselves, as did I.
> >
> > I found that the toaster ovens were a bit slow, but if you doubled up 
> > the elements (i.e. buy 2 ovens, parallel elements) it helped.
> >
> > You can use an AD595 thermocouple amplifier if you want.
> >
> > Here's Sparkfun's schematic of their toaster oven controller:
> >
> >
> http://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Tools/Reflow-Toaster-v2-Schematic.pdf
> >
> > Sparkfun decided that an electric skillet was even better:
> > http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorial/ReflowToaster/reflow-hotplate.htm
> 
> AAARRGGGHHH Another choice ;)
> 
> I actually think this may be the best Idea, as one of the problems was
> the
> sides burning arms, I can hack the sides off with the dremal (best tool
> in an
> Electronics Butcher.. I mean Engineers Tool Case ;)
> 
> But still has a problem with uniform heating.....
> 

Maybe you could make an electric hotplate work? I haven't tried one for 
that purpose, but I have used one to solder a copper or brass plate to the 
ground-plane side of a double-sided pc board used for microwave circuits.  
That 0.010" and 0.005" thick Duroid is pretty soft without extra support!

Also, most of the commercial boards I've seen with surface-mount parts 
have a tiny dot of some kind of glue to hold the part where you want it 
when you put the board in the oven.  It is very difficult to remove the 
part once it's there, though.  It's even dangerous if there are circuit 
traces running under the part. I've ripped a few of those off trying to 
remove faulty parts that have been glued with this method.

And I agree about the Dremel.  Also very handy to butcher ... er ... 
repair cars, darkroom equipment, etc. etc.  :)

Zack