I don't know if you have access to a multimeter, but if you do, the rim should be just a few ohms between the ring and sleeve of the connector when pressed, and 1k or 10k (I cannot remember which) when you press the third zone. It is not possible to press the rim and hit the pad - if the rim is permanently shorted, the module ignores it - it expects the rim switch to close within a certain time of the pad being hit. I guess it works this way due to the need to choke the cymbals. I think there is some glue which could be stopping you getting it apart, but there is a risk you could damage it. What until it's really broken. If you can live without the rim for now, just use a mono cable - that will ignore the rim switch. Keith.
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Re: Rim Problems
2007-11-07 by Keith
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