Yamaha DTXpress/DTXplorer/DTXtreme

Hi Ed!
I've been messing with the Visu-lite hats for a little over a week at home.
They are pretty sweet as far as feel goes. Very close to the real thing. I
am somewhat bothered though by what I would refer to a some possible false
triggering? I note this phenomenon on the rising stroke some times and I was
wondering if you might have any clue as to what may be happening. I have
done all the prescribed adjustments several times. Thanks

Jim Manfredi
----- Original Message -----
From: "liberatusvirus" <liberatusvirus@...>
To: <DTXpress@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2003 11:46 AM
Subject: [DTXpress] Re: visu-lite (yamaha version) hats


> > the visu-lite hats set up right on
> > a typical hat stand, correct? How do they connect to the DTXtreme
> > module?
>
> Hi Jim,
>
> Good to hear from you. I trust you got out of Cleveland OK. Have you
> seen my basic material on the Visu-lite hi hat stand in the files
> section of this board? It contains a couple of pictures of the
> controller clamped to a basic Pearl stand, with its metal cord
> hooked to the foot pedal. The dangling stereo leads in the picture
> are for the dual-zone top cymbal. On the DTXtreme module, you'd have
> to use two mono inputs--one being already labelled for the hi hat
> and the other your choice. Obviously, if you have the single-zone
> top cymbal, you don't need the second input. The stereo lead from
> the controller itself connects to the module just as your HH80
> would. As far as programming is concerned, your old settings should
> get you in the ballpark; you can tweak them as needed.
>
> The tricky part--if you can call it that--is to position the clamp
> on the shaft and connect the cord's hook to the pedal in such a way
> as to get a good response, given the height of your stand and the
> relative position of your cymbals. It's best to fiddle and tinker
> now to find these optimal locations, since the electronics will have
> to be re-placed on the shaft whenever you make changes. The ease of
> hooking the cord to the pedal will depend on what kind of stand you
> have. You'll notice that in my file illustration, the hook actually
> is attached to the chain just above the pedal. In my further
> experiment with a Pearl stand, however, I found that this position
> for the hook slightly impedes the smooth motion of the cord, for
> reasons that I won't rehearse now. Fortunately, at least some Pearl
> pedals have a hole that you can use for the hook's clamp. Even
> though this hole is off-center, you can make adjustments to permit
> the cord to traverse its full length nonetheless.
>
> Once you get the cymbals opening and closing according to your taste
> (I prefer a short distance for the top cymbal to travel) on the
> length of shaft that you prefer, locate controller and hook
> accordingly, and connect the cables, you should be able to get
> something resembling a hi hat sound and response. You'll undoubtedly
> have to refine it heuristically. You'll probably notice that when
> the Visu-lite hi hat cymbals close, they'll make something of a
> clomping sound. If I recall correctly, most of your playing is live
> with an amp or PA; so the clomnping might not be much of an issue.
> If it is, you'll notice that I lined the bottom cymbal with fabric
> to cut down on noise. Any number of techniques, however, might help
> the situation. Remember that the most important feature determining
> the hat's variability is the cord's ability to run its full course;
> when you've adjusted the stand to allow it to do so, the hats don't
> actually need to touch each other as they would with acoustics.
>
> Stick noise on the top cymbal, despite the rubber coating, is also
> louder than many of the usual hi hat alternatives. Again, it's not
> necessarily an issue with all drummers; if it is, the cymbal's
> sensitivity is more than adequate enough to overcome any dampening
> that you might do. Contact me offline, if you want to bat this
> information around a little more.
>
> Ed
>
>
>
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