Yamaha DTXpress/DTXplorer/DTXtreme

Ok guys...BIG help here.
I put my cymbals on seperate stands and I HATE that! I want them to 
work properly on the rack.

How in the world do I set them up not to trigger due to vibration or 
other movements. I DO NOT want to set it up to "ingnore"certain pads.

Please Help,
Wm
BTW...Some one please walk my through this step by step...:)

WM:
You can do a number of things to reduce the false triggers. Among 
them are:
> PHYSICALLY: Wrap a piece of rubber around the cymbal stand where it 
fits into the clamp. Then, fill the tube of the cymbal stand with 
cotton balls or toilet paper. Also, do not clamp the cymbals down too 
tightly. these actions will reduce the vibrations that reach the 
triggers.
> ELECTRONICALLY: Increase the Minimum Velocity parameter to a point 
where slight vibrations are'nt triggering the cymbals.

I would start with the physical aspects first, as the electronic 
aspects mentioned above diminish the playability of the cymbal.

Let me know how things work out.

Stephen

Well...It helped out a little but Im still getting triggers 
activated from other pads. Help Again?
Wm



--- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, "brown8700" <brown8700@a...> wrote:
> WM:
> You can do a number of things to reduce the false triggers. Among 
> them are:
> > PHYSICALLY: Wrap a piece of rubber around the cymbal stand where 
it 
> fits into the clamp. Then, fill the tube of the cymbal stand with 
> cotton balls or toilet paper. Also, do not clamp the cymbals down 
too 
> tightly. these actions will reduce the vibrations that reach the 
> triggers.
> > ELECTRONICALLY: Increase the Minimum Velocity parameter to a 
point 

> where slight vibrations are'nt triggering the cymbals.
> 
> I would start with the physical aspects first, as the electronic 
> aspects mentioned above diminish the playability of the cymbal.
> 
> Let me know how things work out.
> 
> Stephen

--- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, "narrowgatedrummer" 
<buoymaster@c...> wrote:
> Well...It helped out a little but Im still getting triggers 
> activated from other pads. Help Again?
> Wm

Well, I suppose you could fill the rack with sand or shot, but that 
would detract a little bit from mobility. Have you tried manipulating 
the rejection settings? Used judiciously, they won't hamper 
triggering. 

Ed

> Wm wrote:"Well...It helped out a little but Im still getting triggers 
> activated from other pads. Help Again?"
> 
> WM:
> 
> If you look in the photos section you will see that I had heavily pack
> together set. (Photos-oldguydrummer). There are various things that I had
> to do to make the set playable.
> 
> The first thing was to isolate each rack section to a different module. I
> had to have specific rejection available on each rack section to stop some
> of the false triggering. I then replaced the Yamaha cymbal clamps with
> Gilbralter multi-clamps, because they open up wider at the cymbal arm. I
> then cut some heavy 1/8" thick outer wall rubber tubing and wrapped it
> around the cymbal arm between the clamp and the arm. I then adjusted the
> sensitivity of the pads down where necessary. (Of course in a perfect
> world these issues would have been resolved before the equipment went into
> production, but then that cost would have been passed on to us and we
> would have probably had to pay $1500 for the set instead of $999.) 
> 
> I then bought some 24"x24"x5/8" interlocking floor foam pads, that the
> rack sits on to dampened the overall rack. It also allows me to crank the
> spikes on the bottom of the KP-65/HH65/Kick pedal all the way down, a good
> 1/2", making them rock solid, no movement at all and since it leaves a
> permanant indention in the foam, they is no guess work as to were they go
> back to after moving them around. 
> 
> One suggestion is to add a second cross member tube above the top one and
> mount the cymbal pads on one tier and the tom pads on the other tier. This
> should help to keep the sensitivity set higher on the pads. Also, striking
> the rims will also create more vibration, hence cross triggering, than
> just striking the pad itself. The pads that I have that have rim switches
> are on arms all by themselves. 
> 
> There is no one right answer or solution. Unfornuciately, it just comes
> down to trial and error.
> 
> OldGuyDrummer
> 
> p.s. I also keep in mind the buzz from the snares on my old accoutics set
> when any deep bass was played, nothing is absolute. 
> 
> 
> 
 
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I know I'm gonna here some s**t for this but here goes.

I have had my set for almost a year now. I have had very few 
problems,although there have been some cross talk problems between the snare and hi-hat. I 
have changed my style to suit the electronic set. I feel that the volume on the 
DTX is controlled more by the electronics than the drummer. Say for instance an 
acoustic drummer has a volume scale of 1 to 10. On the DTX the drummer has a 
volume control of 1 to 3.

In short, could the cross talk problems people are experiencing be due to 
just hitting the kit to dam hard trying to get more volume. Try lighter sticks 
and more controlled technique.


perry

--- In DTXpress@yahoogroups.com, psmperry@a... wrote:
> I know I'm gonna here some s**t for this but here goes.
> 
> I have had my set for almost a year now. I have had very few 
> problems,although there have been some cross talk problems between 
the snare and hi-hat. I 
> have changed my style to suit the electronic set. I feel that the 
volume on the 
> DTX is controlled more by the electronics than the drummer. Say for 
instance an 
> acoustic drummer has a volume scale of 1 to 10. On the DTX the 
drummer has a 
> volume control of 1 to 3.
> 
> In short, could the cross talk problems people are experiencing be 
due to 
> just hitting the kit to dam hard trying to get more volume. Try 
lighter sticks 
> and more controlled technique.

Perry,

I definitely think that the power syndrome is part of the problem; as 
you say, there is a distinct law of diminishing returns in using 
force on an e-kit. But since e-drums and cymbals are governed largely 
by the susceptible characteristics of piezos sitting on a rack that 
propagates vibrations, the threat of crosstalk will always have some 
presence. The physical strategies that Stephen, OGD, and others have 
devised have proven to have enormous value. But if you don't have the 
money to purchase a new rack or better clamps right away, or if some 
of the material techniques of isolating pads (like separate stands or 
regrouping) don't work for you for some reason, you have to make some 
peace with the inherent settings in the module. Adusting gain and 
min. velocity with rejection, and cutting down on your swing, are not 
useless ventures. This is the point at which e-drums differ from 
acoustics; they favor finesse over strength (though better equipment 
allows for better dynamics). In some sense, I think that playing e-
drums can improve your technique, though I've mostly heard the 
opposite argument. If you can do with a lighter touch what you've 
always done with a heavier one, you'll gain more control over 
technique. Plus, the more that acoustic drums are amped and 
triggered, the more will playing them not seem to diverge so much 
from playing electronics. Convergence is the watchword, even though 
we don't have it on all fronts yet. E-drums definitely take some 
getting used to.

Ed

Ed

> Perry wrote: "Try lighter sticks 
> and more controlled technique."
> 
Another point of view:

> Perry is hitting (pun intended) on a good point. E-drums are not Accoustic
> drums and cannot be expected to be played in the same fashion.
> 
> When I was twelve, I picked up a used accoustic guitar and started to
> learn how to play. A year later I received an electric guitar. The
> notes/chords where the same, the number of frets were the same, but in
> playing them (the feel) was different. For me, the Edrum is a "new"
> instrument that had to be learned to be played. The techniques that I had
> taught myself on the accoustic set had to be re-taught when I got my
> e-drums last year. 
> 
> I clearly had an easier time at making the transition than say someone who
> had been playing continuously on an accoustic set and is now trying to
> jump to an E-drum set. (I had a 10 year break between accoustic and
> e-drumming sessions.) I definitely use lighter sticks and play lighter on
> the e-drum set than I ever did with the accoustic. I know this to be a
> fact. I was constantly breaking drum sticks on my accoustic set, but I am
> still using the same set of sticks that I bought with my e-drum set last
> year and they still have several years a wear and tear left in them, even
> though I typically play 1 to 1-1/2 hours 5-6 nights a week!
> 
> OGD
 
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of this message is not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that
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