Korg DW8000, Mono/Poly, MS-20...

I have the Angel City Turbo board's instructions as .jpg files, I'll 
convert them to PDF and post it on dw8000.com a bit later today.  I'll 
post here when it's ready.

-Mark

On 12/25/11 1:30 PM, glynn buckley wrote:
>
>
> Hi, I see Mark says he has a "new" angel city turbo board.......would
> you be able to post the instructions to the group???...My 8k has one
> fittted, and I suspect it does more than I have discovered
>
> Regards to all
>
> *GLYNN*
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> To: DW8000@yahoogroups.com
> From: Bugsi@...
> Date: Sun, 25 Dec 2011 12:55:08 -0800
> Subject: Re: [DW8000] Re: Looking for parts - Replacement or Repair of Keys
>
> Thanks for your comments.
> Yes, I'm confident the problem with my DW is the contacts in the contact
> assembly. Usually just a second strike of the continuous sounding note
> key is enough to silence it, and tweaking/cleaning of the contacts was
> all it took to go from one note sticking on to multiple notes sticking
> on. Operating my DW from a master keyboard such as a KX88 operates it
> no problem, and every other bit of electronics in my DW is operating
> perfectly. That's the real killer for me is that the *only* thing
> misbehaving in my DW8000 is a few sticking notes with the key contacts.
>
> I've also considered buying a used inop DW8000 for parts or as an easy
> repair, but right now I have so many keyboards that my wife is starting
> to get ticked: DW8000, DS-8, SG1-D, KX88, and a Poly800 II. I can't
> justify having another keyboard in the house for parts at this time.
> Maybe when I get the garage cleaned out more. :-)
>
> In reply to the other post questioned: Yes, it was straight Coca-cola,
> and it had been in there for some time, along with a fair amount of
> probably cat hair and dust stuck to the leftover suger-syrup splotch.
> But I was thorough and meticulous in cleaning the unit, and it has been
> a smooth operator for nearly 20 years. All traces of cola have been
> long-gone from my DW8000.
>
> With a new old stock contact assembly, my DW should be operating
> literally like new, and I'll feel much better about installing my
> still-new Angel City Turbo board that I've had for around 14 years but
> never installed.
>
> -Mark
>
> On 12/25/11 7:02 AM, mondovermona wrote:
>  > Cheers Mark,
>  >
>  > I now see that you have had a really hard tome with your keys. I have
> repaired now several DW8000 contact boards which had the same initial
> problems as yours with long lasting success. But I now learn from you
> that at some stage in a DW8000's life a NOS replacement is the way to
> go. Thank you for that teaching. BTW: The source in the Netherlands I
> can recomment.
>  >
>  > I apears as if after all your attempts to fix and adjust the contacts
> their metal's mechanical resistance did "wear out" making it impossible
> to restore sufficient contact pressure for a safe contact.
>  >
>  > I would love to post some photos, but am afraid that the photos
> cannot be so accurate and clear to inform on how the contact adjustment
> is to be done. But the next time I open up my DW8000 I will shoot some
> pictures, promised.
>  >
>  > I can only hope that your "note off" problem is not attributed to a
> damage of the key-sensing electronics. Did you succeed in "forcing" a
> "note off" at the faulty contacts by shorting them with external means
> (i.e. pair of tweezers)?
>  >
>  > What regards the keyboard, I experience more problems with broken
> keys. The are prone to break on the tip and, more serious, on the pivot
> back. I succeeded in glueing the broken parts together. Luckily, the
> broken off parts tend to be retained in the inside of the case and can
> be easily retrieved. After the glue is hardened I ues a very small drill
> to drill a hole through both glued together parts and use a rigid
> (stainless steel) wire that goes into the holes and glue it into place.
> As a reinforcement of the fix. Glueing without metal reinforcement does
> not hold for long, if at all. You might want to do this "surgery" under
> a magnifiying glass. The most critical thing is the drilling of the hole
> that takes the wire. For the pivotal end of the keys use a dril of less
> than 1 millimeter. Pay attentiion to the tempersture of the drill during
> drilling, else the plasic will melt. When you're finished, place the
> repaired keys to the high or very low octaves which I think are not
> used too
>  > often. My equipment for drilling the small holes and the glues was
> less expensive than the money asked out there for replacementt keys. A
> last word on replacement keys: Consider that the recplacment key may not
> match in color with your own keyboard, in particular if your afre or
> haven been a smoker...
>  >
>  >
>  > What I would like to say to people here is that it is a good idea to
> get another used, maybe partly broken, DW8000 as a reserve for futuer
> repairs. (Having said that I must admit that I have sold every broken
> DW8000 I bought for "spare purposes" because they all were easy to fix
> and then I gave them away to (now happy) musicians. The next broken
> DW8000 I will keep for sure...)
>  >
>  > Any comments? Please feel free to ask.
>
>
>
>