Digital BW, The Print

Daniel,

You wrote:

>... on your mounting
>techniques.  So, the main reason you use your "T"
>method is so you have no tape on the face of the
>print, yes?

That is part of it.  I also just find it about the easiest thing to do.  I
want the print to hang fairly free.  By the way, I use a straight edge to be
sure the top of the print is not buckled at all when I tape the tape down to
the foamcore.

>  Would there be anything
>"improper" about taping on the bottom of the print
>as well?  Think that would make me feel a little better
>about humidity warping, etc.

I'm no expert in this, but I think that might increase the likelihood of
warping.  As the paper absorbs humidity, it might expand.  If it is
free-floating, hopefully the expansion will be allowed by the paper moving
down a bit.  If it is taped there, I wonder if you'd get some bowing in the
image area.

Paul

_____________________


--- Paul Roark <paul.roark@...> wrote:
> Daniel,
>
> My current mounting technique, which I didn't
> articulate very well, is to
> use Light Impressions archival tape (I prefer the
> Clear Framers Tape II to
> the linen tape).  I put 2 tapes on the top, back of
> the print, in from the
> sides about (very roughly) 1/4 of the print width.
> I lay the print, face
> up, on the backing of the hinged Light Impressions
> mat board.  (I prefer the
> foam-core backing and Exeter Gallery White board,
> pre-cut.)  I visually
> align the print with the over-mat.  (I sign the
> print -- which will not show
> with this mounting/matting technique -- and the
> over-mat.)  After the print
> is visually aligned, I use 2 more pieces of tape
> that form a "T" with the
> 3/4" of tape showing above the top edge of the
> print.  So, these tapes,
> going horizontally, hit the adhesive side of the
> tapes that are on the back
> of the print and then stick to the foam-core
> backing.  This
> print-mat-backing combination is then put into a
> black metal frame with
> glass or acrylic.  (I prefer glass, but the local
> Artists' Guild manages to
> crack half of them, so I'm going to acrylic.)
>
> So, basically, I use two tape "T's" at the top to
> the print to hang it on
> the foam-core backing.  Then the over-mat and
> "glass" hold the print flat.
> I see no buckling at all in these 16x20 EAM prints.
>
> I might add that I cut the EAM from a 24" roll.  The
> wetness of the ink
> causes it to flatten sufficiently that I don't need
> to do anything more to
> the print.  I, of course, let it dry a full day
> before putting it under
> glass.