Digital BW, The Print

"dmet2006" <dmet2006@...> wrote:

> ...
> I switched from the darkroom to the "lightroom" recently and I would like to learn from basics to advanced b&W printing.


Other posts have suggested some books.  I think you'll ultimately have to just dive in and start printing.

It sounds like you have a 2400.  If it is working well (perfect nozzle check), it is a good printer.  With the OEM inkset or a third party version of it like from MIS (www.inksupply.com), you can try not only the "Advanced B&W" approach (which most on this forum don't think is particularly advanced) and also QuadToneRip.  I think you'll find that  QTR has profiles for the 2400, and people on the QTR forum <http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/QuadtoneRIP/messages> will share profiles.  

The 2400 can also be loaded with several different dedicated B&W inksets.

All of the approaches, however, have a learning curve.

For image editing, which is key in my view, I started with a non-Photoshop approach but switched to full Photoshop and never have regretted the change.  There is a reason it's the industry standard image editor.  Many now like Lightroom better; I'm not one of those.  I think starting to get down the learning curve in Photoshop is very important.  Photoshop Elements is probably the closest less expensive approach.

Comparing digital prints to your wet darkroom prints can be disappointing at first.  Matte prints will look dull initially, but under glass/acrylic they can look very similar to a traditional silver print.  Some of the glossy papers, including some of the newer "baryta" papers have more of a silver print surface.  If a print is not going to be under glass or acrylic, some type of glossy paper may be preferred if the typical air-dried glossy surface is what you are accustomed to.  Each medium, however, has its own characteristics.  

Trying to duplicate the silver print is not a goal I recommend, but it's where most of us started. I would recommend you evaluate your digital prints in the light and display setting you are targeting, and not in front of a monitor (way too cold), next to a silver print, or next to highly brightened typing paper.

Ultimately, if you  are very serious about your photography, you will want to by a meter to evaluate test strips and print more objectively.   I use a DataColor Spyder print <http://spyder.datacolor.com/portfolio-view/spyderprint/>.  See also http://www.paulroark.com/BW-Info/Spectro.pdf for my notes on how I use the instrument.  

Being able to "linearize" profiles (the last step to get the characteristic curve correct) can also be done with a scanner.  See      http://www.quadtonerip.com/html/QTRdownload.html and the StepWedge tool.  With respect to printing, I recommend, at a minimum, serious B&W printers learn how to linearize profiles.

It is a long learning curve, and this forum is probably your best source of information.  Don't hesitate to ask questions, and don't get discouraged.  I think my digital prints are better than the old silver prints.

Good luck with your B&W.

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com 
http://www.paulroark.com/BW-Info/