Digital BW, The Print

http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?84769-Making-a-scanner-with-a-DSLR
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?87536-DSLR-Scanner-Light-Sources
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?87539-DSLR-Scanner-Negative-Stages
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?87537-DSLR-Scanner-Camera-Supports-and-Positioning
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?87538-DSLR-Scanner-Lenses
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?88697-DSLR-SCANNER-No-7
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?88812-DSLR-Scanner-Scans-and-Comparisons
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?87540-DSLR-Scanner-Stitching-and-Blending-of-Images
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?87541-DSLR-SCanner-Cameras-and-Camera-Control-Software
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?87545-DSLR-Scanner-Workflow

Without getting into some esoteric lenses, a good way to do this is to use
a 55 or 60mm macro.  If it auto-focuses, you can use something like
ControlMyNikon (or similar) to capture and adjust fine focus.  At 1:1 film
flatness and proper focus are extremely important.  Anything much above 1:1
would probably require focus stacking (e.g. using something like Zerene
Stacker) for best results. One of our co-conspirators has a Nikon 8000.  He
can get more detailed scans with his 55mm Nikkor lens.

Another option would be to use a Rodagon 75mm D optimized for 1:1.  There's
also a Rodagon D optimized for 1:2 or 2:1 (if reversed.)

Going above that, using a Mitutoyo M Plan APO 2x objective on a 135mm tube
lens (an old manual focus lens such as a 135mm Nikkor work great for this)
will give a little more  than 1x magnification, and the quality will be
outstanding.  The effective aperture would be about F10.

Probably the ultimate at 1:1 (or there abouts) is a printing Nikkor.  See:
http://coinimaging.com/printing-nikkor_105.html

If you're willing to take more slices, then you could go to one of the
higher magnification microscope objectives, such as a Mitutoyo 5x or a 4x
Nikon, but you will need to focus stack, which adds a lot of added work.

Focus, film flatness, light source evenness, are all extremely important.
If you use a continuous source, the Canons have a special EFCS low
vibration shutter mode in live view that really helps.  I mainly scan BW.
I use a Nikon and a flash-based source.


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