Digital BW, The Print

The best way to do this is to develop your film yourself with a moderate-contrast developer (e.g., D-23) or use a two-bath technique.  Relying on a commercial standard development provides no flexibility of contrast vs. scene.  With roll film you need to be able to at least develop each roll for the average scene conditions for that roll.  It ain't exactly "zone" development, but it will mostly avoid the bullet-proof highlights and "empty" shadows that confound scanners.  If you have never done development before this is all gobbledegook and your eyes are glazing over.  But there is all the info you need on the internet if you are so motivated.

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "togeorge626" <togeorge41934@...> wrote:
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> Your approach is sound, but with each camera you plan to use, you will need to shoot a test roll with varying ASA settings of your typical scenes under typical lighting, to ensure the lower contrast you are looking for while retaining adequate shadow density for a good scan.
> 
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "russmeadseattle" <russmead@> wrote:
> >
> > Ii am pulling out old film cameras to shoot black and white film to scan, then to digitally print. I will primarily be shooting medium format. I live in then land of no sun,Seattle Wa  so use tmax 400 rather than a 100 Asa film. I will be using a good lab to develop the film withou any push or pull. They provide a low level scan with developing for a reasonable price. I will have them do a high Rez drum scan when I have a print made. My golal is to have 20 by 20 prints. Ok, my question... In reading this site it seems like I need to under expose the film. Is this correct? And if so by how much? And just to make sure I get this right I would set the light meter for say 500 Asa for tmax 400 (not set the meter for Asa 300)
> > 
> > Thanks!
> >
>