2015-03-18 by richard@...
The final "perfected" print on one paper might need subtly different final edits to make them work on another paper, especially if it is an uncoated paper or something like kozo—which can vary quite a lot too. I was going through some old boxes of negatives and other stuff that had been in storage and found a hand made book mock-up I made on some cheap Staples double sided matte paper in 2007. The prints still look good considering how it was printed, but I remember they needed a lot of extra work that a print on good paper might not have. I don't even bother with a different "proofing" paper anymore because it becomes just another piece to clutter up my work area until it gets throw away, where a "work" print on good paper can be saved and used for other purposes.
Aside from making jokes about how uncoated papers print, things like shadow detail and midtone separation is where it will mush up compared to coated papers. That can be compensated for by handling the final file differently for printing on it, but, if you proof on coated paper, expect to make additional edits for printing on the uncoated paper.
There was so much talk about printing on uncoated arches that I thought it was worth exploring, but I didn't find it worth investing in heavily—it might lend itself well to certain kinds of subjects, but not my own work. The overall point is, you won't know until you try it and them compare it to other prints, and you can't do that by first printing on proofing paper.
Richard Boutwell