Paul answered all my questions and fixed my typo/spelling error > >what's happening in the fader...? > > >Admittedly several steps causing error > >but I get 3X3 eyedropper readings of your fade scans: > > I use a 5x5 pixel width for the eyedropper for quick looks. For better > accuracy, select a large area within a patch and use the Histogram (in the > Image drop-down menu) mean reading. > > >FS faded black RGB 21-18-13 > > >FS-N faded black RGB 14-13-8 > > The difference is probably that the FS was done with the 1160 and the FS-N > with the 3000. The 3000 puts down slightly more black ink. (There can also > be ink and paper batch differences and differences depending on the mood of > the printer on the day in question .... For the control and test strip for > a particular ink, I always print them on the same piece of paper and at the > same time.) > > When comparing the test strips, be sure to compare the faded ones only to > their control strips. There are density differences that have nothing to do > with fading or warming. Using the histogram method I get similar results: FS faded black RGB 21-19-13 FSN faded black RGB 15-13-9 and a much smaller Standard Deviation in the FSN using similar size selections. Its been a long while since I used Press Ready to create separations but I believe there's still some cyan ink even at 100% black with those partitions...? I am guessing this undercolor cyan acts as a support for the black. This may "fix" the main fading problem area I have seen with the piezo inks in and around 85%-95%. Even with different printers I think if it were k only you'd see closer results but...? Thanks Bob
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Re: [Digital BW] 300 Hr. fade/warming test -- MIS FS-N v. FS
2002-05-01 by Bob Obenland
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