Digital BW, The Print

Yes, I have been through this with my 1280 Epson and have learned what you have learned.  If you correct the magenta with more green, the green cast increases and the same with the reverse.  The best I have been able to do using color inks is the following: Cyan +4, Magenta -11,  Yellow +6 with contrast at +4 and saturation at +6 using gamma of 2.2 for MHW paper.  Epson exchanged a 1280 that required even more negative magenta correction than the above.  Color prints with these settings are pretty good.  But, you are right in certain conditions you describe the magenta bug comes back to life.  My solution is to go to hex black printing with the 1280 and try the 2200 for color, particularly since the inks have more longevity.  Glad you posted your note, good to know that others have noted the same.  One question.  What operating system are you using?  I wonder if the driver for XP has this problem.
  kd7mw <pklein@...> wrote: Can anyone suggest a good starting point for printing B&W with the 
standard Epson color inks on a 1280 printer? Using Epson matte 
heavyweight paper.

I've tried using the Advanced settings with no adjustment, and prints 
have a definite magenta cast.

I also tried Norman Koren's settings at:  
http://www.normankoren.com/makingfineprints1A.html#Printer
(scroll down until you see a purplish chart headed "Paper, Settings 
(please see disclaimer above)").  I tried that settings for B&W 
prints on Matte Heavyweight.  His settings improve things, but 
now dark tones are a bit greenish, and mid-tones are still magenta.

This magenta problem exists with color prints, too.  On a picture of 
a waterfall, cascading water in sunlight is white, but cascading 
water in the shade is a bit magenta or purple. If anyone has some 
ideas on that, all help gratefully accepted.

Eventually I'll probably just get the MIS VM inks, but right now I 
want to use up the inks I already have, and I have some color I want 
to do.  If I could just use color inks for everything, that would be 
great, but I really don't want to buy $400 calibration software and 
equipment.

Thanks
--Peter 


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