Digital BW, The Print

Hi Jeff --

I think I'm still a bit confused on several points (BTW, I am using 
the MIS original inksets):
> 
> 1)  The apparent evenness of the false colors (CMY) applied to your 
> image is in no real way indicative of an even printed grayscale.

I understand that the CMY curves break up the print so that dark, 
medium and light tones are printed by the appropriate cartridges.  
But if a grayscale stepwedge does not print evenly, are changes best 
made to the CMY color curves (when the stepwedge is converted to 
color) or a single 19-step brightness curve when the image is in 
grayscale mode?

--snip
>the 
> positions of the inks in the MIS-Orig inkset are Red/Cyan=light 
gray, 
> Green/Magenta=dark gray, and Blue/Yellow=medium gray.

If the gray inks (25%, 50% and 75%) are keyed to CMY color values, 
how can Red/Cyan, Green/Magenta and Blue/Yellow refer to the same 
tone/tank?  Logically it seems that a "red" curve would use half 
magenta and half yellow, meaning that a mix of the 75% and 50% tanks 
would print, not the exclusive 25% from a true Cyan curve. (I'm 
really confused on this one.)  

--snip
> 4)  I again recommend you gain experience modifying single curve 
> workflows (i.e., lumped RGB workflow curves like Woolf's and 
> Nivin's). I also recommend you turnoff the Epson driver color 
> control.  Position doesn't seem to matter with these lumped 
workflows.
> 
> Learn to walk before you fly.
> 

<sigh>  I would like to work with a single curve workflow, but doing 
so with my older Epson 1520 produces very noticeble dots in the light 
areas of the print. On the other hand, applying Chris Brandon's 
4t_eam.amp curve gave me very smooth, dotless light grays 
but "clumped" darks and midtones.  I hope therefore that if I can 
understand how he produced his original curves for the 1160, I can 
modify them to work properly with my 1520.  

Again, thanks for all your help -- the profile_make2.pdf did clarify 
many of my original questions.

Cheers,
Darrell