Digital BW, The Print

joe davajon wrote:

>  Peter and others interested in the coating process.
> I purchased the material from Hood Finishing Products, Inc; 61 Berry Street;
> Somerset, NJ 08873-3506. PH 732-828-7850 It is described as:  Hydrocote
> Polyshield Clear Satin.  Cost is $42.75 plus $9.19 shipping.  (I am not
> profiting in any way from this company.)  I have not tried their glossy
> since that surface has never been appealing to me.
>
> I purchased a 22 inch metal rod which is wrapped with stainless steel (I
> think) wire from MIS Associates, Inc; 282 Kirksway Ct; Lake Orion, MI 48362;
> Ph 800-445-8296.  The cost of the rod was $35 plus $5.75 shipping.  (I am
> also not affliated with MIS in any way except as a regular customer.)
>
> I will outline my personal procedure with the caveat that I am no expert and
> have based my conclusions only upon my own somewhat limited experience.
>
> I use a plate of 5/8 inch plate glass as a base.  I tape the photograph down
> at the upper end of the picture with removable scotch tape leaving a small
> folded corner of the tape so I can grasp the tape quickly.  I pour about an
> ounce or ounce and a half of the Hydrocote an inch or so above the
> photograph in a long stream that extends beyond the edges of the print.
> (This is for an 8x10.  For a 13x19 I use about 2-3 ounces.) Placing the rod
> above the stream I carefully pull the bar through the hydrocote and across
> the photograph.  This is the tricky part!  I have found that I must apply
> very little pressure downward but some pressure.  If I allow only the weight
> of the bar across the print I tend to get an uneven coating.  If I apply
> more than just a tiny bit of downward pressure I'll get lines where the
> wires from the bar pulled the material away from the surface of the print.
> This is a technique that only experimentation and experience can perfect.  I
> never have any trouble with 8x10's or 11x14's.  13x19's are especially
> challenging but doable.
>
> Your speed across the photograph is also critical!  Too fast and you get an
> uneven surace.  Too slow and you get lines from the bar and wires.  Your
> speed must be absolutely consistent.  No hesitating, slowing down, or
> speeding up.
>
> Immediately upon completing the coating you need to pull the scotch tape off
> and move your print onto a different surface to allow it to dry.  I have
> found that a regular bath towel is best because if you place the wet print
> on paper or a solid surface it tends to glue itself to that surface making
> it difficult to remove.  Another problem here is that if you lift the print
> up it will tend to curl making it very difficult to place on the towel.  So
> I just drag the print from the glass to an adjacent towel.  Then, I have
> found, using a hair dryer to semi dry the print   works nicely to even out
> the coating material.  It seems to me that the material when warm flows out
> nice and evenly on the print so you don't get higher accumulations of
> material on one part of the print  than on the other parts.
>
> It's a tough surface and I find the satin coating a beautiful surface which
> does not detract from the image.  In fact, I have found on matte prints that
> when you coat them you increase the dmax significantly!  Not too much, not
> too little. Also, bend the print doesn't crack or damage the coating.
>
> I am going to experiment with my HVLP paint gun soon just to see if that
> works even better.  I'll post my (unscientific) observations later.
>
> I hope this will help those who indicated an interest in the above
> procedure.
> Joe
>