Digital BW, The Print

Hi Don --

Good suggestion, but I'm looking at spending some time overseas, and 
would love to do some landscape and architectural work in my spare 
time.  A digital camera means one less thing to pack ...

Cheers,
Darrell

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "D. Hill" 
<hill14701@y...> wrote:
> Darrell,
> 
> The one suggestion I have is to circumvent the digital
> camera.  An excellent film scanner will cost the same
> as a good digital body (Canon 10d or Nikon d100) - so
> if you are accustomed to film cameras, there is no
> reason to stop using them.  This will allow greater
> controls than is possible with the digital body alone
> - and you don't have to buy any additional lenses,
> equipment, etc.
> 
> Don
> 
> 
> --- darrelleifert <darrelleifert@y...> wrote:
> > Hi Don --
> > 
> > Thanks for the CMOS/CCD information.  That's what I
> > suspected, and 
> > that's what gives me pause about moving to digital. 
> > By using n-1, n-
> > 2 development times and a good exposure, we can with
> > film capture 
> > more tonal detail from high-contrast scenes and thus
> > create a 
> > greater dramatic impact. Or so it seems at first
> > glance.  Perhaps I 
> > just haven't read enough on how to handle
> > high-contrast scenes with 
> > a digital camera.  Any suggestions??
> > 
> > 
> > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com,
> > "D. Hill" 
> > <hill14701@y...> wrote:
> > > Darrell,
> > > 
> > > CMOS and CCD chips are more similar to slide film
> > than
> > > of black and white film, being as they have much
> > less
> > > latitude.  From basic camera controls in initial
> > > capture, there is not a method to stretch the
> > latitude
> > > of the CCD.  
> > > 
> > > You can mimic the effects of n-1, n-2. etc., from
> > > various controls in photoshop - but that defeats
> > the
> > > purpose of placing specific values or zones on
> > site.
> > > 
> > > As the digital camera is just an imaging device,
> > you
> > > can apply zone system techniques for far less work
> > in
> > > photoshop.
> > > 
> > > My capture process:
> > > 
> > > 1. Read scene with handheld lightmeter, placing my
> > > important value.  I have determined the optimal
> > ISO of
> > > my 10d is 80 with my materials.
> > > 2. Capture in RAW mode.
> > > 3. Transfer images to photoshop as 16 bit tiff.
> > > 4. Convert image to greyscale.
> > > 
> > > At this point the specific zone placed will fall
> > > exactly where I want it - without levels or curves
> > > manipulation.  The process is quite simple, and
> > saves
> > > hours in photoshop.  I save this as my master
> > file,
> > > making any corrections then printing.
> > >  
> > > Write me directly if you would like to know my
> > process
> > > for determining the proper ISO for digital, as
> > well as
> > > constructing a zone ruler to see the latitude of
> > your
> > > imaging chip.
> > > 
> > > Don
> > > 
> > > 
> > > --- darrelleifert <darrelleifert@y...> wrote:
> > > > Hi Folks --
> > > > 
> > > > Forgive me if this is a *very* basic question
> > that
> > > > has been answered 
> > > > before, but a web search hasn't turned up much
> > > > useful information.  
> > > > 
> > > > The well-known advantage of using B&W film is
> > the
> > > > ability to expand 
> > > > or contract developing times in order to obtain
> > both
> > > > shadow and 
> > > > highlight detail in the finished print.  When
> > using
> > > > a digital camera 
> > > > to make what will eventually become a "fine art"
> > B&W
> > > > print, is there 
> > > > any known technique that mimics the N-1 or N-2
> > film
> > > > development 
> > > > process?  Thanks!
> > > > 
> > > > -- Darrell
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > __________________________________
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> > 
> 
> 
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