Digital BW, The Print

Thanks Paul and Mike for your info regarding UT and Pictorico.

I will give it a try with Photo black, Eboni was just pooling.

The best neg I ever got was with the 2000p, 360/1440 dpi, Epson ink 
and super microweave checked.
However is this printer now only for color work (MIS CFS) but my 1290 
is loaded with MIS UT (Eboni) so I have
to do some arrangements for switching blacks.

Banding in the printer head direction is one thing you can understand.
But I have had a very mysterios banding in the paper (film) direction.
It's a very softedged banding coming in regular intervals along the whole film.
Got it on a 1270 some years ago and then it suddenly also popped up 
on the 2000p.
The grey rubber wheels are clean. To lower the printer head doesn't 
help, thought
it could depend on the distance between nozzles and film.
You can't see it on paper but the Pictorico is completely nonforgiving.
Negativs with this kind of banding works mostly for gumprinting
but not for carbon or platinum.

Anyone any idea?

Hans


>Hans,
>
>You asked:
>
>>Has anyone experience from using MIS UT (Photo black)
>>and Pictorico OHT?
>
>>Is the adhesion good enough (without spraying) for making digital negs?
>
>I just printed a 21-step test file onto a Pictorico film with my 1280 and
>MIS UT inks with MIS Photo Black.  I used the standard UT80-N (Neutral)
>curve, but increased the printing DPI to 2880.
>
>It looks like the pigments are sticking fine (no "dusting", or other obvious
>artifacts that I'd associate with lack of adhesion).
>
>However, I have not actually used a negative made this way.
>
>I don't know how to test whether the adhesion is enough for printing.  Every
>fingerprint or touch of any RC surface -- digital or wet print technology --
>seems to leave some kind of mark.  With the Pictorico film/UT ink
>combination, when I rub my finger across the corner of the dark end of the
>21-step test strip, it leaves a "fingerprint" or some type of rub mark.  Ink
>does not come off onto my finger.  When I try to rub this fingerprint off
>with a facial tissue, it feels like it is sticking a bit.  The surface looks
>marred, and with backlighting I can see that tiny bits of pigment were
>rubbed off.  The tissue does not look to have any significant ink on it,
>however.
>
>In viewing the transparency film before the above damage, the limiting
>factors of image quality depend on the viewing method.  The film is
>extremely sharp.  My 7.2 line-pair/mm resolution target is well separated on
>the 360 ppi test file.  One step up, with a 720 ppi test file, the film
>clearly separates the horizontal, 1 pixel wide, 14.4 lp/mm resolution test
>chart.  The vertical 14.4 lp/mm test is barely separated; it looks more like
>a solid bar at any reasonable magnification.  (At normal viewing distance
>many consider 5 lp/mm to be the normal limits of what our eyes can
>separate.)
>
>This this kind of sharpness, when viewed as a transparency at very close
>range or with magnification, this medium shows defects and artifacts that
>would not show on a matte print.  The famous Epson "pizza wheel" tracks are
>very apparent, for example, and I can see very fine banding.  So, when
>viewed as a transparency, I can't say I like what I see.
>
>With a piece of paper behind the film, however, the image quality is quite
>good.  In normal viewing -- distance and light -- I think the file quality
>would be the limiting factor.  Artifacts are not obvious.  This may be a
>closer approximation of what a contact print would look like.  I do not
>think the negative would hold up well with magnification, but for large
>contact prints, this might be an interesting solution.
>
>I hope this is helpful to you.
>
>Paul
>http://www.PaulRoark.com
>
>
>
>
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