Digital BW, The Print

David,

>I'm also 'just starting out' ...

>Is the following true?
>  For warm tone:
>    Black position: Eboni
>    All color positions: UT hextone Light/Photo Cyan


This is correct for the Epson C82 using the system I just finished.

>  For neutral tone:
>    Black position: Eboni
>    All color positions: custom UT neutral mix?

Yes, and this is not an ink that is part of the normal Ultra Tone inkset.
So, it has to be mixed.

>Do I need to tell them the mix percentages for the neutral ink?

MIS is very much on board with the C82 program.  I expect them to have the
ink available very soon.  They would probably mix it for you in bulk (4 oz.
bottles) immediately if you called them.  It takes them a bit longer to have
carts pre-filled.  I'm not sure what their time table is on this.

>Will MIS have stock numbers for all this or will it be delt
>with on a custom basis per customer?

I don't know.  Call them and ask for Bob.  I'm not even sure what they are
going to call the inkset.  If you tell them its the C82 B&W setup I've been
working on, however, Bob will know exactly what you mean.

Paul
http://www.PaulRoark.com
_____________________________________________



--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Roark"
<paul.roark@v...> wrote:
> Darko,
>
> >If I want to try UT/C82 today, what C82 cartridges,
> >inks and/or tools I have to order?
>
> MIS has the C82 (through Amazon, I think) as do others on the
internet and
> elsewhere, the C82 empty carts (you may have to call MIS on this),
and the
> inks.
>
> Eboni goes into the black spot.  For the warm, pure carbon tone, UT
hextone
> Light/Photo cyan goes into all 3 color spots.  (While the carts and
inks are
> the same, the chips are specific to the color -- at first.  So, the
yellow
> chip must be on the cart that goes into the yellow position.  After
the
> first use, however, that cart can then be put into the other
spots.  This
> becomes relevant if you want a medium warm tone where you'll be
mixing the
> warm and neutral ink carts.)
>
> The neutral ink is a new mix.  I'd wait until MIS mixes it for
you.  Mixing
> small batches to the needed accuracy, especially without an
expensive
> scales, is a problem.
>
> As to other tools, if you have Photoshop, that's great.  However,
any image
> editor will do.  I recommend Picture Window 3.5 as a starting
program.  It
> can be downloaded from Digital Light & Color for free as a trial
and then
> $50.  If you like it, the Pro version is 16 bit, which is nice.
>
> One big reason I like Picture Window is that it is simple, cheap,
and allows
> use of Photoshop curves.  That gives you an easy migration route to
the
> bigger printers and more complex workflows.
>
> As to scanners, it really depends on what your originals are.
>
> >Do you recommend waiting for pre-filled
> >cartridges or refilling is easy enough?
>
> If you're just starting out, I think you might be better off
waiting for
> pre-loaded carts.  The carts MIS received were not what they
expected, and
> they are not easy to fill to capacity at home.  I'm only putting 12
cc into
> them, whereas they should take 16 cc.  (Ink squirts out the vent
holes when
> more is put in via the easy bottom-fill method.)  So, I'll have to
change
> carts when the ink monitor reads only 75% used.  MIS (or their
contractor)
> can do it with vacuums, which is the best way to do these, but it's
complex.
>
> You might call to see when they'll be available.  (I'll also e-mail
MIS to
> see if I can get a schedule.)
>
> If its going to be long, then touch base with me and I'll see what
the
> alternatives are to get you started.
>
> Have fun.
>
> Paul
> http://www.PaulRoark.com
> ______________________________________
>
>
>
>
> ______________________________________
>
>
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Roark"
> <paul.roark@v...> wrote:
> > Jim,
> >
> > > What would you all recommend as an affordable basic setup
> > >consisting of a printer, inks, papers, software, and perhaps a
> scanner?
> >
> > I just finished my "affordable & easy" printer project.  I've been
> > determined to bring archival B&W to even non-technical types for
as
> little
> > initial $ outlay as possible, and I think it's done.  My target
has
> been the
> > genealogists and scrapbook makers who need to be able to copy,
> restore, and
> > archival old family photos, but this is a solution that is also
> ideal for
> > anyone who wants a simple, basic but very good archival printing
> system.
> > (Have you noticed how many of the people who lost their homes to
> fire
> > mentioned the loss of their old family photos as most heart-
> breaking.  The
> > valuable old ones should have been copied and given to relatives.
> It's the
> > best insurance.)
> >
> > While the Epson 1280 with MIS Ultra Tone ("UT") inks is the most
> flexible,
> > state-of-the-art combination, the Epson C82 with UT-derived inks
is
> the
> > affordable, easy way to go.
> >
> > With the C82 there are no RIPs or special software.  Just print
the
> B&W
> > files from any application.  There are some Epson driver settings
> that
> > matter (EEM paper type, "Best Photo", ICM, No Color Adjustment,
> High Speed
> > off).  But this is about as simple as it gets.
> >
> > The C82 is at the end of it's life cycle, but they are still
> available from
> > $69.  Epson probably has refurbished ones and others have new
> ones.  The
> > refurbs are as good as new and covered by a new warranty.
> >
> > The C82 is made for pigmented inks, using the Epson Durabrite inks
> for
> > color.  These are as durable as (probably the same as) the Epson
> UltraChrome
> > color pigments.  For color, these are fine for archival storage
and
> display.
> > They have a 70+ year display life.
> >
> > The inks for B&W are from MIS (www.inksupply.com).  They are based
> on the
> > Ultra Tone inks.  This is a pigmented inkset which uses
> predominantly carbon
> > black.  For the warm C82 ink, the UT light cyan is perfect.  It
> goes into
> > all the color positions of the C82.  The black ink is MIS Eboni.
> >
> > For a neutral (slight "selenium" tone), I've just finished the
> formula.  It
> > basically ads 14% blue (cyan + magenta pigments) to the UT medium
> gray.
> >
> > MIS will pre-load these inks into cartridges and, I assume, also
> sell them
> > as bulk inks.  I expect them to load the carts ASAP.
> >
> > These inks, in the UT or raw form, have been more fade resistant
in
> my
> > initial fade testing than have the Epson Archival inks, which have
> been
> > rated at 200+ years of display life by Epson.  The carbon ink in
> the UT
> > inkset will probably last longer than our civilization when
printed
> on
> > buffered cotton paper and stored appropriately; they are very
> archival from
> > what I can tell.
> >
> > The best papers for the system are Epson Enhanced Matte for medium
> term,
> > very affordable display.  (It's acidic, so it's rated at only 110
> years of
> > dark storage by Wilhelm.  High humidity and temperature could
> shorten this
> > significantly.  It's my main paper for general printing.)  For a
> cotton
> > paper that should be archival, Hahnemuhle PhotoRag is the most
> popular and
> > what I recommend for the C82.  It gives a dmax of 1.60, which is
> very
> > competitive for a cotton paper.  www.MediaStreet.com sells this
> as "Royal
> > Renaissance" for a reasonable price.
> >
> > For the old-photo restoration folks, Epson and Canon both have
good
> flatbed
> > scanners for about $50.  If you do film get a 4000 dpi Nikon or
> equivalent.
> >
> > For basic, affordable image editing the $50 version of Picture
> Window seems
> > to be the way to go.  A trial program can be downloaded from
> Digital Light &
> > Color at http://www.dl-c.com/Temp/.  One advantage to this program
> is that
> > is can use the Photoshop image adjustment curves that are needed
to
> control
> > many of the more complex, partitioned B&W inksets if you want to
> migrate to,
> > for example, the 1280 & UT inkset for large (13") paper.
> >
> > Enjoy the journey.
> >
> > Paul
> > http://www.PaulRoark.com




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