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Digital BW, The Print

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Re: [Digital BW] Lyson Print Guard

2003-12-18 by islandbuck2

That's kind of a shame for me.  I have made a sizable investment in 
time and materials with the current UT work flow for the 1280.  I 
wish I could consume what I have and then make the switch at a more 
economically feasible time.  Hey, we all appreciate the time an 
effort you dedicate to this!  Thanks, Jorge

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Roark" 
<paul.roark@v...> wrote:
> 
> >Paul, will you be making UT curves for the 1280 and some RC papers 
> >like Premium Semi-Gloss?
> 
> I'll be making UT-2 Semi-gloss curves.  (And/or maybe slider setting
> recommendations.) One of the changes was to give better barrier 
paper
> performance.
> 
> Paul
> www.PaulRoark.com 
> ________________________________
> 
> 
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Roark" 
> <paul.roark@v...> wrote:
> > John,
> > 
> > >It looks like PremierArt Printshield is being proposed as a
> > >spray for papers like Epson Semi-Gloss to eliminate bronzing.
> > >Sounds good.  You get a glossy print with good dmax and no
> > >bronzing and a protective surface.
> > 
> > Yes, add to this a Wilhelm dark storage life of over 200 years, 
and 
> it makes
> > an interesting package.
> > 
> > >But with EEM and the like, the Mayer rod with polyurethane seems
> > >to give the same results.  And even though it's a little more
> > >involved than the spray can, EEM is WAY cheaper than glossy 
papers.
> > 
> > EEM is acidic, having a dark storage life of 110 years, according 
> to Wilhelm
> > -- and that is under ideal conditions.  When acidic materials 
have 
> been
> > encapsulated, they have in some tests deteriorated 10 times as 
> fast.  If the
> > acidic H+ ions are cannot escape, they will have nothing to do 
but 
> attack
> > the un-buffered EEM paper.  So, to get an equivalent life, you'd 
> have to go
> > with a buffered cotton paper.  The price comparison is then not 
as 
> good.
> > 
> > >So why use the RC paper with Printsheild approach?
> > 
> > There are a number of reasons.  
> > 
> > One is the existence of the Wilhelm tests of the PremierArt 
spray.  
> I don't
> > have one for the polyurethane coating I was doing.  
> > 
> > I was not able to scale up the Mayer rod.  Some claim to have been
> > successful with 16x20, but I never saw one.  I would have gone to 
a 
> thicker
> > glass and continued to try if I had not been intrigued by the 
> barrier
> > papers.  So, one reason is that I think I'll be able to scale 
this 
> process
> > up to any size.
> > 
> > I think the carbon pigment may be best protected if it is entirely
> > encapsulated.  In my high humidity fade tests, the polyurethane 
> coated test
> > strip did worse than one that was not coated.  I think the reason 
> is that
> > humidity was getting into the print from the back and then was 
not 
> dried out
> > the way the non-coated test strip was.
> > 
> > I am most impressed with the solvent based coatings in terms of 
> their
> > ability to surround the particles and protect them.  The solvent 
> based
> > materials are in liquid form when they hit the pigments.  The 
liquid
> > surrounds the particle and then hardens.  The water borne 
materials 
> just lay
> > on top.  It appears to be the difference between water-based 
paint 
> and
> > oil-based.  The later soak in and stick better.  The solvent 
based 
> sprays
> > are going to do a better job of encapsulating the pigment 
particles,
> > protecting them from the environment, and sticking them to the 
> paper.  A
> > tech person with one of the acrylic companies also said that the
> > solvent-based UV protective sprays are much more effective at UV 
> protection
> > than the water-borne materials.
> > 
> > With the 4000, we'll be able to go with either paper easily.  I'm 
> not
> > abandoning the matte papers, but it is time to optimize the B&W 
> systems for
> > both now.
> > 
> > The barrier (RC) papers may be the easiest, least capital-
intensive 
> way to
> > get very durable, high dynamic range display prints.  At least it 
> is worth
> > exploring.
> > 
> > Paul
> > www.PaulRoark.com
> 
> 
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