Digital BW, The Print

Paul, 
Could you explain the 2 image split tone technique?

Thanks,
Peter


--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Roark" 
<paul.roark@v...> wrote:
> Steve,
> 
> >...
> >I am using UT2 in a 1290 printer (using a 1280 driver ...
> 
> I've now tried and seen comparisons of the 1290 and 1280 drivers in 
the
> 1290, and I don't see enough difference to worry about which one 
you use.
> The samples I've seen mostly look good.
> 
> > ...the results so far have been excellent. No fading or 
metamerism!
> 
> >What I would like to do is modify the curves, but I have no idea 
how...
> 
> MIS once had Dirk Hobman's tutorial in the "What's New" section of 
the MIS
> website.  However, that has been re-done (so everything is mixed up 
from
> what I can see).
> 
> Dirk, are you lurking?
> 
> >I am particularly interested in making split tone curves, where the
> >highlights are one tone and the shadows are another. In the 
darkroom I
> >am fond of cold shadows and very slight sepia in the highlights. Is
> >there any way I can replicate this using the curves?
> 
> Yes.  I usually use a 2-image split-tone technique.  That way I can 
control
> very accurately where the tones are.  So, it's more than just a
> highlight/shadow differentiation.
> 
> One could, however, make a curve that had relatively cold shadows 
and warm
> highlights.
> 
> With matte paper, the warm matte black will ultimately give you a 
warm 100%
> & 95% -- and somewhat higher up depending on the inkset.
> 
> With the UT2 and UT7 inksets and glossy paper, you can go cold all 
the way
> down.  Those inksets use the dark cold and dark warm gray inks 
together to
> make the 100% black.  The best black is not necessarily with both 
the Red
> and Green curves all the way down.  Either one can be pulled up to 
about 35
> and, in some cases, not only give tone ("hue") control, but also 
result in a
> deeper black.  
> 
> (Carbon black is not necessarily the deepest or best-looking 
black.  I
> suspect Epson might also be using the color inks in the R800 in 
combination
> with the black ink.)
> 
> >Another thing I would like to do is get a cold toned print on 
glossy
> >paper. Is there a way to do this with curves? I am using eboni 
ink ...
> 
> Now your talking -- cold glossy prints.  I'm making those curves 
for the
> UT7, and I think they look great.  
> 
> At least for practice, use Epson Glossy Photo Paper (cheap but very 
good).
> I recommend using this paper as a standard and starting place.  Its
> artifact-free surface is really easy to deal with.  No spray is 
needed to
> reduce the bronzing or protect an overly-sensitive surface, as is 
found on
> most other glossy papers.  
> 
> (I think it is the older & dye-compatible technology of the Glossy 
Photo
> Paper gives it characteristics that are very helpful for the MIS B&W
> pigments.  The newer microporous-coating papers may be great for 
color
> gamut, but they may have made the wrong compromises for B&W 
pigments.  This
> is even more true for the 2200, which can pump more ink onto the 
Glossy
> Photo Paper than the newer papers can handle.)
> 
> Open a 21-step test file, convert it to RGB, and paste it to the 
top of a
> black 8x10 as a layer.
> 
> Apply the UT2-GlossyPP-Eboni-Neutral curve to the 21-step image.  
Pull the
> Red curve (cyan, cold ink) down, toward the dark end of the 
vertical axis
> about 20 - 25 units at the middle (127) and top quarter (191).  Do 
the
> opposite with -- push up -- the Green curve at those points about 
20 - 25.
> Do the same at in the shadows with about a 10 - 15 unit moves at 63 
and less
> as you work your way to the bottoms of the Red & Green curves.  You 
can make
> the deep shadows deeper and even pull the Green curve off the 
bottom by up
> to 35 to cool the 100% ink patch. 
> 
> You'll get the hang of it after printing some test strips (7 per 
8x10) and
> seeing what the curves changes do.
> 
> You can just visually compare and adjust the curves to fine-tune 
them.  
> 
> Print a 21-step test file with an existing curve for reference.
> 
> Good luck.
> 
> Paul
> www.PaulRoark.com 
> 
> For UT2 information, curves, and settings see:
> http://home1.gte.net/res09aij/