Digital BW, The Print

From what I understand using LC in Y is only useful when using the
driver controls. With the curves the Y is completely cut out, leaving
only carbon inks and the two toners. 

By adding the yellow back in after applying the neutral curve all you're
doing is adding more warmth to the print again since the carbon inks are
very warm by themselves. It would be the exact same thing as moving from
the neutral curve to the medium warm curve.

If you're going for a neutral tone you might be interested in mixing a
custom cool toner for the Y position instead. I made one with 84% UT7-LC
and 16% MIS-7600C. This allows me to get a wider range of tints when
making neutral prints. Instead of just going from warm to selenium I can
now also go from selenium to cyan or warm to cyan, or anything in
between. I find I like the neutral prints better with just a slight bit
more cyan in them than the default setup.

I've made a Perl script that can take a layered photoshop file and merge
everything into a single curve. I'd have to tweak it a bit for general
use, but it certainly saves you time when making curves. Like you, I
often find it easier to just stack several adjustment layers to get a
tone I'm happy with, then afterwards I'll merge them into a single new
curve. The only disadvantage of this method is that you have to rely on
a predefined set of 16 points along the curve, but this should be less
of a problem with the UT7 inks since the curves are less extreme than
with the UT1 inkset.

--
Daniel Staver
http://daniel.staver.no




> -----Original Message-----
> From: byten2003 [mailto:psiempyo@...] 
> Sent: 26. mai 2004 17:18
> To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Digital BW] Q. for Paul UT7- 2200-LC in Yellow
> 
> 
> I am working to print on the hot press fine art paper with the lc in 
> the yellow position. I want the prints to look like traditional 
> black and white. I think that would be just on the cool side of 
> neutral from what I am seeing. I also want all carbon since in 
> combination with the buffered paper the prints will have greater 
> staying power. The only way I have had success is to use the neutral 
> curve for hot press which you provided and then I go to the color 
> balance adjustment in photoshop and moved the slider toward yellow 
> to use the (now light cyan cart) to cool it a bit.  It looks like to 
> achieve the same results using the rgb curves I would be tweaking 
> all day and night. I want to use as many of the cartridges as 
> possible so that the resolution of the print head is used to its 
> full capability. My question is this; am I on the right track here? 
> Is the color balance yellow slider short changing the 
> quality? Any suggestions on how to get more comfortable 
> getting the curve 
> right are greatly appreciated too. I suspect that (at least for me) 
> it will just take many hours and many little test prints to get good 
> at the curves.