Automatic Reply
I will be out of the office and away from e-mail until December 29th. I'll reply to your message as soon as possible after the 29th.
Jim Harris
>>> DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint 12/21/04 08:43 >>>
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. RE: Print Server - Was: QTR - GUI Problems...
From: "Ed Mertz" <edmertz@earthlink.net>
2. Re: QTR - GUI Problems...
From: "richard_h95050" <richardh@...>
3. UT7 QTR profiles
From: "brouwerkent" <brouwerkent@...>
4. Re: Digest Number 2692
From: claudej1@...
5. More on Glop overcoating
From: "Steven Karafyllakis" <steve@...>
6. Re: Print Server - Was: QTR - GUI Problems...
From: "steveabrink" <steveabrink@yahoo.com>
7. Re: Print Server - Was: QTR - GUI Problems...
From: "Michael Hung" <mhkhung@...>
8. RE: Re: Setting Monitor Luminance, Col Temp & Gamma
From: "Paul D. DeRocco" <pderocco@ix.netcom.com>
9. Re: Print Server - Was: QTR - GUI Problems...
From: "richard_h95050" <richardh@...>
10. RE: Setting Monitor Luminance, Col Temp & Gamma
From: "Paul D. DeRocco" <pderocco@ix.netcom.com>
11. RE: Re: Print Server - Was: QTR - GUI Problems...
From: "Stephen Billard" <stephen@...>
12. Re: More on Glop overcoating
From: "scott_now_coming" <scott_now_coming@yahoo.com>
13. Re: More on Glop overcoating
From: Steve Kale <stevekale@...>
14. Optimizing Images for the Web
From: "Steve Kale" <stevekale@...>
15. Re: Optimizing Images for the Web
From: Mark Savoia <mark@...>
16. Re: Optimizing Images for the Web
From: Steve Kale <stevekale@btinternet.com>
17. Re: Optimizing Images for the Web
From: Michael Poster <mposter@...>
18. Re: Optimizing Images for the Web
From: Mark Savoia <mark@...>
19. Re: Optimizing Images for the Web
From: Hans VR <hvr@...>
20. Re: Optimizing Images for the Web
From: "Phil Rose" <pjrose@frontiernet.net>
21. Re: Optimizing Images for the Web
From: Mark Savoia <mark@...>
22. Re: Re: Optimizing Images for the Web
From: Mark Savoia <mark@...>
23. Re: More on Glop overcoating
From: "Steven Karafyllakis" <steve@...>
24. Re: Optimizing Images for the Web
From: "Phil Rose" <pjrose@frontiernet.net>
25. Re: Optimizing Images for the Web
From: Hans VR <hvr@...>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2004 12:38:19 -0700
From: "Ed Mertz" <edmertz@...>
Subject: RE: Print Server - Was: QTR - GUI Problems...
Michael,
Yes, the 9600 connects directly to the router via a Cat5 Etherlink cable.
You'll need the Etherlink card for the 9600. Yes, the print servers are
still running from the image editing PC but the spoolers take over and you
can go back to editing while it's printing, albeit a bit slower at times
since you're sharing the computer. You could set up a separate PC just to
be a print server, but unless you're in a high volume situation I don't
think it will be worth the extra expense and complexity.
The other printers are connected to the router via a Hawking (brand name)
Print Server, a little box that plugs into the printer USB or parallel
connector and is then connected to the router via another Cat5 Etherlink
cable. You have to specify what type of connection (USB or Parallel) you
want when buying the print servers, because most of them are single-duty.
You may be able to use your wireless equipment, but I like hard wired things
- fewer problems.
Ed
_____
From: Michael Poster [mailto:mposter@...]
Sent: Monday, December 20, 2004 12:17 PM
To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Digital BW] Print Server - Was: QTR - GUI Problems...
Ed,
So the 9600 connects directly to the router, yes? That makes sense to me.
But I guess I don't quite get how the parallel and USB printers are
connected. And the print drivers are still running from your image editing
machine, yes?
I've got a D-link wireless router and a small (wired/wireless) LAN now. I
was hoping to send files to a box in the other room and have it take over
printing functions from there. But if that's impossible, sending print jobs
via ethernet will still get me up and running.
Michael
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2004 20:37:16 -0000
From: "richard_h95050" <richardh@...>
Subject: Re: QTR - GUI Problems...
Hi All,
I think we're all coming at this in a similar manner, and I didin't
mean to imply that there was really any "simple" approach by using
a "clean machine" -- just that some of the anomolies of the operating
systems, how various programs treat your computer's integrity when
they install and the inherent complexity of the technology itself --
all these things confront us, confound us and compound our challenges
of setting up each new system...
As "The Wogster" pointed out, some programs enter your "house of
computing" like a polite guest -- they're well mannered, behave
nicely and respect your environment. Others are just the opposite --
they throw their "stuff" (dll's and other bits and pieces) all over
the place, and change your "house" to suit their stay. Pretty rude
indeed, and sometimes it's not even so obvious until we install
another nice program like QTR that needs to share the same resources
and we find out they left muddy footprints all over the carpet ;>)
Anyway, that was my basic point for suggesting the cleaner the
machine, the easier it is to sort out some of these problems. Lots of
people that depend on these wonderful computing machines for their
livelihood as imagemakers wouldn't think of putting Microsoft Office
on the same box that did all their post-processing and printing. Not
to pick on ole' Bill Gates, or anything -- but it's a good example
because since MS also builds Windows for us I think they feel
entitled to muck around with it quite freely. But again, just an
example -- some do it because they can, and some because they don't
know any better ;>)
In the "darkroom", I got to be pretty friendly with Decktol and the
few other chemicals that I used because they made all the difference
between getting the results I wanted or an evening of frustration
under the safelight. I think the same approach needs to be taken
here: chemistry seemed a lot simpler than computers, but a bit of
pollution with either one and you're in a world of hurt ;>)
Having worked my career in the Silicon Valley, I've felt pretty
comfortable with the transition to the tools of our new "light-room"
environment (Roy and I must have brushed shoulders a few times back
then, but never really met -- just knew a lot of the same folks ;>))
So it's from that perspective that I offered the suggestion that we
make it as easy on ourselves as we can, because there are lots of
complexities involved. Just like with darkroom chemistry, sometimes
you get the best results with light-room printing equipment when you
can keep it simple and control the exact (or not) "mixture" of what's
on your machine as much as possible. Makes it easier for other people
to help us through problems, and once everything is working smoothly
we can relax a bit more.
Still, I'm not writing this post on my main editing machine. I've
grown up with computers since the days of CPM and TRS-80's, but the
only thing on my editing room machine is what I need for editing.
Yep, it's networked for ease of running print servers (wireless and
not), moving stuff onto my raid-based "SAN" for safekeeping and
burning, etc. But I keep it really clean otherwise. (What's that old
joke? Clean mind, Clean body. Take your pick.)? Oh, well...
Bottom line is there are some elegantly simple ways of entering
into this incredibly rich world of new tools we have with our sanity
relatively intact -- like the post right after my earlier one from
the person who just discoverd the joys of the C86 and Paul's "EZ" UT
inkset, augmented by Paul's informative response. Those wonderful
tools can get you printing georgous "quad-tones" on a pretty polluted
machine, just as long as the machine can still see the printer and
send out a file.
Of course, Paul has gone way beyond that with the vast array of
inks, curves and techniques he's developed for us -- but the basic
approach (with it's own set of nuances), can be less "computer
dependent" than a RIP based system. (Note the operative term there
is "can be..." since printer tempermant still plays a key role in any
system ;>))
In the end (and the beginning) I was only trying to support some
folks in what sounded like mounting frustration with their Holiday
printing projects -- but do believe that what I offer is sound advice
about simplicity learned from that wonderful institution called "the
school of hard knocks" ;>)
So, I'll bow out here and just say Happy Holidays to all -- but not
without borrowing and botching up a great term from a real pioneer in
Piezography, Jon Cone: "may your highlights be dotless" and your
computers free of frustrating bugs!
Enjoy! This is a wonderful forum and a wealth of knowledge to all of
us as we move forward in this great new artform together...
Cheers!
Richard
--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Michael Hung"
<mhkhung@y...> wrote:
>
> I don't have any problem setting up QTR on my machine, but it's my
> machine and I (think at least) know networking and windows sharing
> very well..
>
> It's not as simple as it sounds.. With Windows XP, Microsoft
changed a
> hell lot of default security and sharing parameters in Windows. And
> there may be just a check-box difference for systems that works and
> doesn't. The basic problem is the default file sharing. Prior to
> Windows XP, all you need to share a printer, folder, etc is either
> right-click on the folder and hit sharing; or issue the command "net
> share sharename=..." in command prompt. In Windows XP, there are a
few
> more things to click before that will work (and I couldn't even
> remember what they are now), and QTR relies on that.
>
> Michael
>
> > 1. As an old hand at working through some of these same kinds of
> > issues, I'd like to pass on a really simple but fundamental tip
that
> > I learned the very hard way (meaning, I no longer have any hair
left
> > to pull out ;>)). That is: when all else fails, start with a
> > clean, "plain vanilla" system.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 01:59:15 -0000
From: "brouwerkent" <brouwerkent@...>
Subject: UT7 QTR profiles
Interested in finding someone to help me create/calibrate a set of profiles for
UT7 and QTR. I am using a paper that is not optimally matched to the existing
EEM profiles. I am willing pay a fee, as long as the fee is not exhorbitant. I
will print the targets as required.... I do not have access to a densitometer.
Please contact me off list @ phil@....
Thanks in advance.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2004 21:16:58 EST
From: claudej1@...
Subject: Re: Digest Number 2692
In a message dated 12/20/2004 11:08:27 AM Pacific Standard Time,
DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com writes:
> Fortunately, it does not appear
> to be the general tenor of this board, but it has gone a long way toward
> turning me into a
> lurker, rather than a contributor.
>
> There are always "list bullies" and it has been my apparent misfortune to
> run into one.
>
> I consider this matter closed now, and although there will most likely be
> further personal
> attacks, I'll refrain from replying, since I believe my postings to be
> correct, not "gross
> misinformation" unless it can be otherwise shown.
>
>
> Upon re-reading my original responses, I can see where this would seem to be
a personal attack. It was meant to be an attack on issues, not the person, so
for that error, I do apologize.
I have not historically ever been a list bully, but I can see where one might
thing otherwise from those posts. I guess we all have bad days.
The orignal post had what I percived to be "authoritative" sounding and
struck a cord with my senses in more ways than one.
Let's just say that if you look at the information interchance in general, it
wasn't that bad, when you filter out the stuff that sounded personal (which
it wasn't).
thanks for your time in either case, and I shall also consider this matter
closed.
Claude
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 02:21:24 -0000
From: "Steven Karafyllakis" <steve@...>
Subject: More on Glop overcoating
A further report and observations on overcoating with MIS gloss
optimizer. Some bad news, I'm afraid, at least for those of us using
the MIS UC inks.
After switching my K from the 'Universal' to MIS PK and gloss-
coating with the 1280, I started getting some very good dmax, far
better than I've gotten with matte K on Photorag. The problems
however, started a few hours after making the prints, when the gloss
coat really started to dry. The dark gray areas gradually lost their
gloss, and in some cases actually bronzed up again, and looked very
flat. Not the results I'd gotten with the full color prints.
The glossy papers hardly suffered at all, but the semi-matte showed
the effect heavily, especially with low-key but not black areas. The
problem seemd to involve only the dark grays, IOW the LK printed
areas. I then did a full-page gray-scale, and coated 5 sections with
5 different levels of glop, using the Epson driver sliders to
control the lay-down.
After dry-down, 2 things became obvious: 1) While the 100% K band
retained the gloss, the bands from 95% to about 75% matted and
bronzed again. 2) The heaviest glop coat retained the gloss most
consistently. 20% may work if you're mixing it into the ink, but
this way, you need more like 120% for a solid coat.
A later test of the Epson Premium semi-gloss was more successful: a
day later the surface felt dry, no visible dry-down effects, and a
killer tonal range. So far with this ink combination, the Epson
premium semi-gloss is the winner.
Other papers tested:
Epson PGPP
Epson Prem. semi-matte
Oriental Graphica luster
Proof-Line semimatte DP and Glossy DP
Kirkland Glossy (the Swiss-made)
I'm hoping that this problem has to do with the MIS LK ink, so I've
ordered a cart of the Epson to test; If the Epson ink is better, A
much lighter coat might do the job.
This of course means switching and flushing the LK line, so I'd like
to put out a request to those list members running QTR on PC who
have an idea how to do this, for a curve that will run the LK
channel only, at full tilt. Or a description of what it needs to
look like at any rate, or a link to that info if it is already
available.
Some further observations-
Drying the prints before gloss-coating does not seem to be
neccessary. The prints I've had least trouble with, I dried quickly
with a few seconds of hair drier blast, and fed right through the
gloss coat stage.
If you use a desktop printer for the gloss, the pizza-wheels MUST
go. Even at the slowest feed setting the glop coat is too soft to
take the abuse. This causes problems with last half-inch of paper if
you're overcoating all the way out. Easy enough to allow for it with
a border.
Nozzle checks need to be done on an instant-dry glossy or semi-gloss
paper, so you can see the reflection on the pattern, and so the
other ink colors don't get on your rollers and then on your next
print. I had been using the back of RC paper-the zero absorption
makes the gloss coat easy to see, but cost me a couple of otherwise
good prints.
I've had the glop cart in the 1280 for a couple days now, no
clogging problems yet, only the occasional cleaning cycle needed, so
far so good. It hasn't been as trouble-free as running dyes, but
easier than pigments.
The glop is easy to refill in the annoying 1280 carts. I've found I
don't have to pull out the remaining ink/foam-I'm getting 10-15ml in
the bottom with no BS. Wonderfull, considering these carts are small
and coating an entire piece of paper eats the stuff up in a hurry.
Good thing it's cheap in bulk.
QTR is working very well for this. So far I've used only the EEM
profiles for all the RC papers I've tested, and I have no problem
fine-tuning any given pair without-split-toning, crossover or
visible metamerism. I do have to use the 1440 super and
unidirectional printing to get as smooth and micro-banding free a
print as I like, but I would use that setting regardless.
What the heck, I think I'll go ahead and pay for it...
Print protection being an issue, I tried waxing a couple of the
prints that dried properly-it works well, the wax goes on smoothly
and easily, and buffs up nicely. No more skid-marks or fingerprints,
thank you. Very different from trying to wax a straight UC print. I
don't know how much protection wax adds, but it's got to be good for
something more than just smudge resistance.
That's it so far;
I'd be interested in hearing from others trying this out,
particularly anyone using straight Epson UC inks; any problems?
Steve Karafyllakis
http://www.stevekphoto.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 02:52:37 -0000
From: "steveabrink" <steveabrink@...>
Subject: Re: Print Server - Was: QTR - GUI Problems...
Thankd for the good info...! But before I go through the hassle of
setting up a print server, it would be great to get Steve Billard's
feedback on doing this...?
Also, real basic ?, how do I check the firewall setting is off in
W2K...? Or is there one...?
Finally, can any windows developers out their think of any other
settings that would stop QTR GUI from sending data to port for
printing...?
Thanks in advance!
Steve B
--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, Michael Poster
<mposter@w...> wrote:
> I'll betray my ignorance here, but what the heck. I've been reading
recent
> messages about print servers and am intrigued. I'm thinking about
getting a
> 7600 (or the next iteration) and have been wondering about how I'll
set it up.
>
> I'm on Win XP and have my 2200 direct connected to the PC via USB.
It's
> printing color through the Epson driver and BW using QTR / QTRgui.
The
> biggest problem I believe I'll have setting up the larger printer
is space.
> I will have to place the printer outside my office in an adjacent
work room
> and I may have to exceed acceptable USB cable length to get
connected. It's
> also an intriguing idea to get the print-driving software running
on
> another machine while I continue to work in Photoshop on subsequent
images.
>
> It seems that with QTRgui's watched folder capability I could send
a file
> to a networked machine in the work room serving the printers and
QTR would
> take over and print. Have I got that right? Is there some way to do
the
> same when printing color through the Epson driver?
>
> Michael
>
> At 09:58 AM 12/20/2004, you wrote:
> >One solution, if you have a spare computer (that PII-200 with 32MB
of
> >RAM and the 2.0GB hard disk, that's ready for the garbage, will do
> >nicely here). Can be reinstalled from bare metal, simply as a
print
> >server. Linux can be a solution for a lot of problems here, in
that it
> >can run headless (no monitor, keyboard or mouse) just with the RIP
> >engine and the printer attached, running networking and samba so
that
> >your Windows PC can use it.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 03:23:54 -0000
From: "Michael Hung" <mhkhung@...>
Subject: Re: Print Server - Was: QTR - GUI Problems...
There's no Windows firewall in W2K. So unless you bought one, there
shouldn't be a firewall. (And you are really not safe if you just put
your machine on the internet).
Anyway, if you know how to use command prompt (Start->Run->cmd), open
it and type "net share". See any shared directories and the QTR
printer there? Mine shows "Quad1270" pointing to USB0001. And other
directories such as "C$".
(C$ is special.. don't really need to worry about security implication)
Next, try type "dir \\127.0.0.1\C$" into command prompt. See if you
can see your root directory. If it works then QTR should work in theory.
Michael
--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "steveabrink"
<steveabrink@y...> wrote:
>
> Thankd for the good info...! But before I go through the hassle of
> setting up a print server, it would be great to get Steve Billard's
> feedback on doing this...?
>
> Also, real basic ?, how do I check the firewall setting is off in
> W2K...? Or is there one...?
>
> Finally, can any windows developers out their think of any other
> settings that would stop QTR GUI from sending data to port for
> printing...?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2004 20:34:15 -0800
From: "Paul D. DeRocco" <pderocco@....com>
Subject: RE: Re: Setting Monitor Luminance, Col Temp & Gamma
> From: bruce greene [mailto:bagreene@...]
>
> A Variac is a big light dimmer. A large variable resistor. They come in
> many different sizes depending upon the amount of electricity used.
>
> As more resistance is applied, the voltage to the lamp drops and the
> light output decreases while the color temp also decreases.
>
> By the use of the dimmer, I assume that the Solux halogens are filtered
> in such a way as to produce light (at normal voltage) of above 5000K.
Actually, it's a variable transformer, which has a range that allows for
some step-up, not just dimming. Since the fixtures are Chinese, they are
designed for 125V, and the bulbs were running well below 5000K without the
variac.
--
Ciao, Paul D. DeRocco
Paul mailto:pderocco@...
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 04:42:08 -0000
From: "richard_h95050" <richardh@...>
Subject: Re: Print Server - Was: QTR - GUI Problems...
Steve,
Michael's got you pointed in the right direction here. You need to
break things down into simple pieces because the QTR/GUI isn't a real
complicated duo. Two things:
1. In case I missed it in an earlier part of your thread, have you
tried running QTR without the GUI? You're dealing with two programs
here and it would be good to isolate the problem -- Roy has pretty
clear directions on how to run QTR "raw"
2. When you run "net share" from the command prompt like Michael
suggests, do you also see both your printer and a line that reads
something like "print$ C:\WINNT\systema32\spool\drivers"?
Depending on whether that line is present and if you're spooling your
output or sending RAW data to the printer may play a part in your
problem -- Roy and/or Steve can fill you in more on how their
respective code deals with the Win2K print spooler.
If you can print from Photoshop (or any other app) to your printer and
you're not using a print server, the firewall is a non-issue as
Michael suggests. However, do you have any security software of any
sort running on your machine? Are you logged in as and have you
installed all the software in this loop (including your printer
drivers, QTR and GUI with Admin privileges or as the same user?
And again, in case I missed it, you are networked on the machine
you're printing from or have a loopback adapter installed, right? And
since you're using USB, you've checked for any port mismatches that
may have been introduced when you set up your printer share, yes?
Michael -- FYI I've got about 30+ feet between my 9600 and my editing
machine. It's a tad over "spec" but I am using a good heavy cable with
ferrite cores, so I haven't had a bit of trouble with the distance for
either my 9600 or 7000. Also, you can always drop a good powered hub
or repeater in the line if noise is an issue, go ethernet, or if your
network is wireless, the USB wireless adapters are getting very
inexpensive. Distance should be no problem for you...
Cheers!
Richard
--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "steveabrink"
<steveabrink@y...> wrote:
>
> Thankd for the good info...! But before I go through the hassle of
> setting up a print server, it would be great to get Steve Billard's
> feedback on doing this...?
>
> Also, real basic ?, how do I check the firewall setting is off in
> W2K...? Or is there one...?
>
> Finally, can any windows developers out their think of any other
> settings that would stop QTR GUI from sending data to port for
> printing...?
>
> Thanks in advance!
> Steve B
>
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, Michael Poster
> <mposter@w...> wrote:
> > I'll betray my ignorance here, but what the heck. I've been
reading
> recent
> > messages about print servers and am intrigued. I'm thinking about
> getting a
> > 7600 (or the next iteration) and have been wondering about how
I'll
> set it up.
> >
> > I'm on Win XP and have my 2200 direct connected to the PC via
USB.
> It's
> > printing color through the Epson driver and BW using QTR /
QTRgui.
> The
> > biggest problem I believe I'll have setting up the larger printer
> is space.
> > I will have to place the printer outside my office in an adjacent
> work room
> > and I may have to exceed acceptable USB cable length to get
> connected. It's
> > also an intriguing idea to get the print-driving software running
> on
> > another machine while I continue to work in Photoshop on
subsequent
> images.
> >
> > It seems that with QTRgui's watched folder capability I could
send
> a file
> > to a networked machine in the work room serving the printers and
> QTR would
> > take over and print. Have I got that right? Is there some way to
do
> the
> > same when printing color through the Epson driver?
> >
> > Michael
> >
> > At 09:58 AM 12/20/2004, you wrote:
> > >One solution, if you have a spare computer (that PII-200 with
32MB
> of
> > >RAM and the 2.0GB hard disk, that's ready for the garbage, will
do
> > >nicely here). Can be reinstalled from bare metal, simply as a
> print
> > >server. Linux can be a solution for a lot of problems here, in
> that it
> > >can run headless (no monitor, keyboard or mouse) just with the
RIP
> > >engine and the printer attached, running networking and samba so
> that
> > >your Windows PC can use it.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2004 21:08:07 -0800
From: "Paul D. DeRocco" <pderocco@...>
Subject: RE: Setting Monitor Luminance, Col Temp & Gamma
> From: Pieris Berreitter [mailto:pieris@...]
>
> Running the solexes at the voltage required to get 5000K (about
> 13.2V) would reduce life significantly (by more than half)... but
> what I'm interested in knowing is what kind of fixture you are using.
> I am considering building something given the high cost of the retail
> fixtures.
Some crappy Chinese track lighting, with high-frequency switching
down-converters built into each fixture. I don't have the boxes any more,
but the fixtures themselves say WAC on them, whoever that is. Works fine,
though.
However, you won't get 5000K unless you can step the voltage up a little. I
just happened to have an old variable transformer lying around, so I used
it.
--
Ciao, Paul D. DeRocco
Paul mailto:pderocco@...m.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2004 21:24:12 -0800
From: "Stephen Billard" <stephen@...>
Subject: RE: Re: Print Server - Was: QTR - GUI Problems...
If you just set up a print server you will necessarily have to set up a full
blown network. That alone may solve your problem, even without connecting
your printer to the print server. All the problems with printing that have
been resolved were either improperly set up networking or improperly shared
printers.
As to the firewall, go to the control panel. There you will find an icon for
the Windows Firewall. (At least if you are running XP SP2.)
Finally, just a minor point. QTRgui is just the front end to Roy's print
driver software--QuadToneRIP. It is doing all the real work here.
-Stephen
www.sbillard.org/Stephen
> -----Original Message-----
> From: steveabrink [mailto:steveabrink@...]
> Sent: Monday, December 20, 2004 6:53 PM
> To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Digital BW] Re: Print Server - Was: QTR - GUI Problems...
>
>
>
>
> Thankd for the good info...! But before I go through the hassle of
> setting up a print server, it would be great to get Steve Billard's
> feedback on doing this...?
>
> Also, real basic ?, how do I check the firewall setting is off in
> W2K...? Or is there one...?
>
> Finally, can any windows developers out their think of any other
> settings that would stop QTR GUI from sending data to port for
> printing...?
>
> Thanks in advance!
> Steve B
>
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, Michael Poster
> <mposter@w...> wrote:
> > I'll betray my ignorance here, but what the heck. I've been reading
> recent
> > messages about print servers and am intrigued. I'm thinking about
> getting a
> > 7600 (or the next iteration) and have been wondering about how I'll
> set it up.
> >
> > I'm on Win XP and have my 2200 direct connected to the PC via USB.
> It's
> > printing color through the Epson driver and BW using QTR / QTRgui.
> The
> > biggest problem I believe I'll have setting up the larger printer
> is space.
> > I will have to place the printer outside my office in an adjacent
> work room
> > and I may have to exceed acceptable USB cable length to get
> connected. It's
> > also an intriguing idea to get the print-driving software running
> on
> > another machine while I continue to work in Photoshop on subsequent
> images.
> >
> > It seems that with QTRgui's watched folder capability I could send
> a file
> > to a networked machine in the work room serving the printers and
> QTR would
> > take over and print. Have I got that right? Is there some way to do
> the
> > same when printing color through the Epson driver?
> >
> > Michael
> >
> > At 09:58 AM 12/20/2004, you wrote:
> > >One solution, if you have a spare computer (that PII-200 with 32MB
> of
> > >RAM and the 2.0GB hard disk, that's ready for the garbage, will do
> > >nicely here). Can be reinstalled from bare metal, simply as a
> print
> > >server. Linux can be a solution for a lot of problems here, in
> that it
> > >can run headless (no monitor, keyboard or mouse) just with the RIP
> > >engine and the printer attached, running networking and samba so
> that
> > >your Windows PC can use it.
>
>
>
>
>
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> THE DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP.
>
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>
>
>
>
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>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 06:09:54 -0000
From: "scott_now_coming" <scott_now_coming@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: More on Glop overcoating
Hi Steve,
What wax are you using to wax a print?
Thanks,
Scott
--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Steven
Karafyllakis" <steve@s...> wrote:
>
> A further report and observations on overcoating with MIS gloss
> optimizer. Some bad news, I'm afraid, at least for those of us
using
> the MIS UC inks.
> After switching my K from the 'Universal' to MIS PK and gloss-
> coating with the 1280, I started getting some very good dmax, far
> better than I've gotten with matte K on Photorag. The problems
> however, started a few hours after making the prints, when the
gloss
> coat really started to dry. The dark gray areas gradually lost
their
> gloss, and in some cases actually bronzed up again, and looked very
> flat. Not the results I'd gotten with the full color prints.
> The glossy papers hardly suffered at all, but the semi-matte showed
> the effect heavily, especially with low-key but not black areas.
The
> problem seemd to involve only the dark grays, IOW the LK printed
> areas. I then did a full-page gray-scale, and coated 5 sections
with
> 5 different levels of glop, using the Epson driver sliders to
> control the lay-down.
> After dry-down, 2 things became obvious: 1) While the 100% K band
> retained the gloss, the bands from 95% to about 75% matted and
> bronzed again. 2) The heaviest glop coat retained the gloss most
> consistently. 20% may work if you're mixing it into the ink, but
> this way, you need more like 120% for a solid coat.
>
> A later test of the Epson Premium semi-gloss was more successful: a
> day later the surface felt dry, no visible dry-down effects, and a
> killer tonal range. So far with this ink combination, the Epson
> premium semi-gloss is the winner.
>
> Other papers tested:
>
> Epson PGPP
> Epson Prem. semi-matte
> Oriental Graphica luster
> Proof-Line semimatte DP and Glossy DP
> Kirkland Glossy (the Swiss-made)
>
> I'm hoping that this problem has to do with the MIS LK ink, so I've
> ordered a cart of the Epson to test; If the Epson ink is better, A
> much lighter coat might do the job.
> This of course means switching and flushing the LK line, so I'd
like
> to put out a request to those list members running QTR on PC who
> have an idea how to do this, for a curve that will run the LK
> channel only, at full tilt. Or a description of what it needs to
> look like at any rate, or a link to that info if it is already
> available.
>
> Some further observations-
>
> Drying the prints before gloss-coating does not seem to be
> neccessary. The prints I've had least trouble with, I dried quickly
> with a few seconds of hair drier blast, and fed right through the
> gloss coat stage.
>
> If you use a desktop printer for the gloss, the pizza-wheels MUST
> go. Even at the slowest feed setting the glop coat is too soft to
> take the abuse. This causes problems with last half-inch of paper
if
> you're overcoating all the way out. Easy enough to allow for it
with
> a border.
>
> Nozzle checks need to be done on an instant-dry glossy or semi-
gloss
> paper, so you can see the reflection on the pattern, and so the
> other ink colors don't get on your rollers and then on your next
> print. I had been using the back of RC paper-the zero absorption
> makes the gloss coat easy to see, but cost me a couple of otherwise
> good prints.
>
> I've had the glop cart in the 1280 for a couple days now, no
> clogging problems yet, only the occasional cleaning cycle needed,
so
> far so good. It hasn't been as trouble-free as running dyes, but
> easier than pigments.
>
> The glop is easy to refill in the annoying 1280 carts. I've found I
> don't have to pull out the remaining ink/foam-I'm getting 10-15ml
in
> the bottom with no BS. Wonderfull, considering these carts are
small
> and coating an entire piece of paper eats the stuff up in a hurry.
> Good thing it's cheap in bulk.
>
> QTR is working very well for this. So far I've used only the EEM
> profiles for all the RC papers I've tested, and I have no problem
> fine-tuning any given pair without-split-toning, crossover or
> visible metamerism. I do have to use the 1440 super and
> unidirectional printing to get as smooth and micro-banding free a
> print as I like, but I would use that setting regardless.
> What the heck, I think I'll go ahead and pay for it...
>
> Print protection being an issue, I tried waxing a couple of the
> prints that dried properly-it works well, the wax goes on smoothly
> and easily, and buffs up nicely. No more skid-marks or
fingerprints,
> thank you. Very different from trying to wax a straight UC print. I
> don't know how much protection wax adds, but it's got to be good
for
> something more than just smudge resistance.
>
> That's it so far;
> I'd be interested in hearing from others trying this out,
> particularly anyone using straight Epson UC inks; any problems?
>
> Steve Karafyllakis
>
> http://www.stevekphoto.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 09:35:42 +0000
From: Steve Kale <stevekale@...>
Subject: Re: More on Glop overcoating
In a 1280 the ink should flush out with a couple of purge pattern prints.
If you really want to mess with a QTR curve to just flush LK then simply
create a new curve with LIMIT_LK=100 and all other inks set at 0 and adjust
the partitioning to one ink etc - pretty straight forward. You should try
using an RC QTR curve instead of EEM. With levels as high as 120% you will
start to incur the tint of the glop - according to Carl it is not perfectly
clear. Why don't you edit a curve and add the glop (15-20% flat coverage)
as the ink is laid down.
> From: Steven Karafyllakis <steve@...>
> Reply-To: <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com>
> Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 02:21:24 -0000
> To: <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [Digital BW] More on Glop overcoating
>
>
>
> A further report and observations on overcoating with MIS gloss
> optimizer. Some bad news, I'm afraid, at least for those of us using
> the MIS UC inks.
> After switching my K from the 'Universal' to MIS PK and gloss-
> coating with the 1280, I started getting some very good dmax, far
> better than I've gotten with matte K on Photorag. The problems
> however, started a few hours after making the prints, when the gloss
> coat really started to dry. The dark gray areas gradually lost their
> gloss, and in some cases actually bronzed up again, and looked very
> flat. Not the results I'd gotten with the full color prints.
> The glossy papers hardly suffered at all, but the semi-matte showed
> the effect heavily, especially with low-key but not black areas. The
> problem seemd to involve only the dark grays, IOW the LK printed
> areas. I then did a full-page gray-scale, and coated 5 sections with
> 5 different levels of glop, using the Epson driver sliders to
> control the lay-down.
> After dry-down, 2 things became obvious: 1) While the 100% K band
> retained the gloss, the bands from 95% to about 75% matted and
> bronzed again. 2) The heaviest glop coat retained the gloss most
> consistently. 20% may work if you're mixing it into the ink, but
> this way, you need more like 120% for a solid coat.
>
> A later test of the Epson Premium semi-gloss was more successful: a
> day later the surface felt dry, no visible dry-down effects, and a
> killer tonal range. So far with this ink combination, the Epson
> premium semi-gloss is the winner.
>
> Other papers tested:
>
> Epson PGPP
> Epson Prem. semi-matte
> Oriental Graphica luster
> Proof-Line semimatte DP and Glossy DP
> Kirkland Glossy (the Swiss-made)
>
> I'm hoping that this problem has to do with the MIS LK ink, so I've
> ordered a cart of the Epson to test; If the Epson ink is better, A
> much lighter coat might do the job.
> This of course means switching and flushing the LK line, so I'd like
> to put out a request to those list members running QTR on PC who
> have an idea how to do this, for a curve that will run the LK
> channel only, at full tilt. Or a description of what it needs to
> look like at any rate, or a link to that info if it is already
> available.
>
> Some further observations-
>
> Drying the prints before gloss-coating does not seem to be
> neccessary. The prints I've had least trouble with, I dried quickly
> with a few seconds of hair drier blast, and fed right through the
> gloss coat stage.
>
> If you use a desktop printer for the gloss, the pizza-wheels MUST
> go. Even at the slowest feed setting the glop coat is too soft to
> take the abuse. This causes problems with last half-inch of paper if
> you're overcoating all the way out. Easy enough to allow for it with
> a border.
>
> Nozzle checks need to be done on an instant-dry glossy or semi-gloss
> paper, so you can see the reflection on the pattern, and so the
> other ink colors don't get on your rollers and then on your next
> print. I had been using the back of RC paper-the zero absorption
> makes the gloss coat easy to see, but cost me a couple of otherwise
> good prints.
>
> I've had the glop cart in the 1280 for a couple days now, no
> clogging problems yet, only the occasional cleaning cycle needed, so
> far so good. It hasn't been as trouble-free as running dyes, but
> easier than pigments.
>
> The glop is easy to refill in the annoying 1280 carts. I've found I
> don't have to pull out the remaining ink/foam-I'm getting 10-15ml in
> the bottom with no BS. Wonderfull, considering these carts are small
> and coating an entire piece of paper eats the stuff up in a hurry.
> Good thing it's cheap in bulk.
>
> QTR is working very well for this. So far I've used only the EEM
> profiles for all the RC papers I've tested, and I have no problem
> fine-tuning any given pair without-split-toning, crossover or
> visible metamerism. I do have to use the 1440 super and
> unidirectional printing to get as smooth and micro-banding free a
> print as I like, but I would use that setting regardless.
> What the heck, I think I'll go ahead and pay for it...
>
> Print protection being an issue, I tried waxing a couple of the
> prints that dried properly-it works well, the wax goes on smoothly
> and easily, and buffs up nicely. No more skid-marks or fingerprints,
> thank you. Very different from trying to wax a straight UC print. I
> don't know how much protection wax adds, but it's got to be good for
> something more than just smudge resistance.
>
> That's it so far;
> I'd be interested in hearing from others trying this out,
> particularly anyone using straight Epson UC inks; any problems?
>
> Steve Karafyllakis
>
> http://www.stevekphoto.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, and other resources as
> they are often being updated.
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
>
> If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish to
> unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting this same
> page.
>
> Please follow these basic guidelines:
> - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep
> them short.
> - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or flames.
> Hostile, aggressive or argumentative users may be removed from the membership
> without notice.
> - Keep your posts and threads related to the group topic of digital B&W
> printing. Users who persistently make off-topic posts may be removed from the
> membership.
> - By posting on this forum you agree to abide by the group rules and
> guidelines, and to abide by the actions and decisions of the group Owner and
> Moderators. See *Group Topic, Rules and Guidelines* in the Files section:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint/files/
>
> BY PARTICIPATING IN AND/OR POSTING MESSAGES TO THE DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT
> YAHOO! GROUP YOU EXPRESSLY UNDERSTAND AND AGREE THAT THE *OWNER* AND
> *MODERATORS* OF DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP SHALL NOT BE LIABLE TO YOU
> FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, INCIDENTAL, SPECIAL, CONSEQUENTIAL OR EXEMPLARY
> DAMAGES, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DAMAGES FOR LOSS OF PROFITS, GOODWILL,
> USE, DATA OR OTHER INTANGIBLE LOSSES (EVEN IF THE *OWNER* AND *MODERATORS* OF
> DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP HAVE BEEN ADVISED OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
> DAMAGES), RESULTING FROM: (i) THE USE OR THE INABILITY TO USE THE DIGITAL BW,
> THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP; (ii) UNAUTHORIZED ACCESS TO OR ALTERATION OF YOUR
> TRANSMISSIONS OR DATA; (iii) STATEMENTS OR CONDUCT OF ANY THIRD PARTY ON THE
> DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP; OR (iv) ANY OTHER MATTER RELATING TO THE
> DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP.
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 14:48:21 -0000
From: "Steve Kale" <stevekale@...>
Subject: Optimizing Images for the Web
What is the best way to optimize an image for display on the web? I have a very simple
website using .Mac Homepage but need to optimize my images before placing them in my
iDisk folder. What is the best way to do this? Save for Web from Photoshop?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 09:56:32 -0500
From: Mark Savoia <mark@...>
Subject: Re: Optimizing Images for the Web
That does a pretty good job. Play around with the settings and see what
the least file size you can get away with. Also try doing it with
slices in PS.
Mark
On Dec 21, 2004, at 9:48 AM, Steve Kale wrote:
>
> What is the best way to optimize an image for display on the web? I
> have a very simple
> website using .Mac Homepage but need to optimize my images before
> placing them in my
> iDisk folder. What is the best way to do this? Save for Web from
> Photoshop?
>
>
>
>
>
> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, and other
> resources as they are often being updated.
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
>
> If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish
> to unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting
> this same page.
>
> Please follow these basic guidelines:
> - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to
> keep them short.
> - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or
> flames. Hostile, aggressive or argumentative users may be removed from
> the membership without notice.
> - Keep your posts and threads related to the group topic of digital
> B&W printing. Users who persistently make off-topic posts may be
> removed from the membership.
> - By posting on this forum you agree to abide by the group rules and
> guidelines, and to abide by the actions and decisions of the group
> Owner and Moderators. See �Group Topic, Rules and Guidelines� in the
> Files section:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint/files/
>
> BY PARTICIPATING IN AND/OR POSTING MESSAGES TO THE DIGITAL BW, THE
> PRINT YAHOO! GROUP YOU EXPRESSLY UNDERSTAND AND AGREE THAT THE �OWNER�
> AND �MODERATORS� OF DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP SHALL NOT BE
> LIABLE TO YOU FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, INCIDENTAL, SPECIAL,
> CONSEQUENTIAL OR EXEMPLARY DAMAGES, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO,
> DAMAGES FOR LOSS OF PROFITS, GOODWILL, USE, DATA OR OTHER INTANGIBLE
> LOSSES (EVEN IF THE �OWNER� AND �MODERATORS� OF DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT
> YAHOO GROUP HAVE BEEN ADVISED OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH DAMAGES),
> RESULTING FROM: (i) THE USE OR THE INABILITY TO USE THE DIGITAL BW,
> THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP; (ii) UNAUTHORIZED ACCESS TO OR ALTERATION OF
> YOUR TRANSMISSIONS OR DATA; (iii) STATEMENTS OR CONDUCT OF ANY THIRD
> PARTY ON THE DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP; OR (iv) ANY OTHER
> MATTER RELATING TO THE DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP.
>
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 15:02:47 +0000
From: Steve Kale <stevekale@...>
Subject: Re: Optimizing Images for the Web
Slices?
Also if you use Save for Web do you down-res the file before using it? If
so what to? The original files are large 10x15in @480ppi.
Thanks
Steve
> From: Mark Savoia <mark@...>
> Reply-To: <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com>
> Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 09:56:32 -0500
> To: <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Optimizing Images for the Web
>
>
> That does a pretty good job. Play around with the settings and see what
> the least file size you can get away with. Also try doing it with
> slices in PS.
> Mark
>
> On Dec 21, 2004, at 9:48 AM, Steve Kale wrote:
>
>>
>> What is the best way to optimize an image for display on the web? I
>> have a very simple
>> website using .Mac Homepage but need to optimize my images before
>> placing them in my
>> iDisk folder. What is the best way to do this? Save for Web from
>> Photoshop?
>>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 10:14:59 -0500
From: Michael Poster <mposter@...>
Subject: Re: Optimizing Images for the Web
At 10:02 AM 12/21/2004, you wrote:
>Slices?
Not sure you really want to use slices here. They're typically for building
complex pages from large composite images. I don't really think slices are
the way to go for presenting pictures.
>Also if you use Save for Web do you down-res the file before using it? If
>so what to?
Yes, you resample down using bicubic or bicubic sharper. Size is your
choice, but is often between 500 - 1000 pixels (long dimension). You don't
have to worry about ppi. Just change your pixels sizes in the image size
dialog. That works.
If your image is color (RGB) you want to convert to sRGB for web viewing as
well. Image > Mode > Convert to profile.
>The original files are large 10x15in @480ppi.
>
>Thanks
>
>Steve
>
>
> > From: Mark Savoia <mark@...>
> > Reply-To: <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com>
> > Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 09:56:32 -0500
> > To: <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@...m>
> > Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Optimizing Images for the Web
> >
> >
> > That does a pretty good job. Play around with the settings and see what
> > the least file size you can get away with. Also try doing it with
> > slices in PS.
> > Mark
> >
> > On Dec 21, 2004, at 9:48 AM, Steve Kale wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> What is the best way to optimize an image for display on the web? I
> >> have a very simple
> >> website using .Mac Homepage but need to optimize my images before
> >> placing them in my
> >> iDisk folder. What is the best way to do this? Save for Web from
> >> Photoshop?
> >>
>
>
>
>
>
>Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, and other resources as
>they are often being updated.
>
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
>
>If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish to
>unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting this same
>page.
>
>Please follow these basic guidelines:
>- As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep
>them short.
>- Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or flames.
>Hostile, aggressive or argumentative users may be removed from the
>membership without notice.
>- Keep your posts and threads related to the group topic of digital B&W
>printing. Users who persistently make off-topic posts may be removed from
>the membership.
>- By posting on this forum you agree to abide by the group rules and
>guidelines, and to abide by the actions and decisions of the group Owner
>and Moderators. See "Group Topic, Rules and Guidelines" in the Files section:
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint/files/
>
>BY PARTICIPATING IN AND/OR POSTING MESSAGES TO THE DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT
>YAHOO! GROUP YOU EXPRESSLY UNDERSTAND AND AGREE THAT THE "OWNER" AND
>"MODERATORS" OF DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP SHALL NOT BE LIABLE TO
>YOU FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, INCIDENTAL, SPECIAL, CONSEQUENTIAL OR
>EXEMPLARY DAMAGES, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DAMAGES FOR LOSS OF
>PROFITS, GOODWILL, USE, DATA OR OTHER INTANGIBLE LOSSES (EVEN IF
>THE "OWNER" AND "MODERATORS" OF DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP HAVE
>BEEN ADVISED OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH DAMAGES), RESULTING FROM: (i) THE
>USE OR THE INABILITY TO USE THE DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP; (ii)
>UNAUTHORIZED ACCESS TO OR ALTERATION OF YOUR TRANSMISSIONS OR DATA; (iii)
>STATEMENTS OR CONDUCT OF ANY THIRD PARTY ON THE DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT
>YAHOO GROUP; OR (iv) ANY OTHER MATTER RELATING TO THE DIGITAL BW, THE
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Michael Poster
Publisher
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Woodworkers Directory - www.woodindustry.com
mposter@...
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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 10:20:53 -0500
From: Mark Savoia <mark@...>
Subject: Re: Optimizing Images for the Web
72 ppi is all you need. Yes slices, check PS help file on how and why
to use slices for web pages.
Mark
On Dec 21, 2004, at 10:02 AM, Steve Kale wrote:
> Slices?
>
> Also if you use Save for Web do you down-res the file before using
> it? If
> so what to? The original files are large 10x15in @480ppi.
>
> Thanks
>
> Steve
>
>
> > From: Mark Savoia <mark@...>
> > Reply-To: <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com>
> > Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 09:56:32 -0500
> > To: <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Optimizing Images for the Web
> >
> >
> > That does a pretty good job. Play around with the settings and see
> what
> > the least file size you can get away with. Also try doing it with
> > slices in PS.
> > Mark
> >
> > On Dec 21, 2004, at 9:48 AM, Steve Kale wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> What is the best way to optimize an image for display on the
> web? I
> >> have a very simple
> >> website using .Mac Homepage but need to optimize my images before
> >> placing them in my
> >> iDisk folder. What is the best way to do this? Save for Web from
> >> Photoshop?
> >>
>
>
>
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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004
(Message over 64 KB, truncated)Message
Re: [Digital BW] Digest Number 2694
2004-12-21 by Jim Harris