Digital BW, The Print

Oh no, here we go again with auto replies from this person for the next  
few weeks. Can the moderator please de-activate Jim Harris until then?
Thanks,
Mark

On Dec 21, 2004, at 10:46 AM, Jim Harris wrote:

>
> Automatic Reply
>
> I will be out of the office and away from e-mail until December 29th.   
> I'll reply to your message as soon as possible after the 29th.
>
> Jim Harris
>
>>>> DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint 12/21/04 08:43 >>>
>
>
>
> There are 25 messages in this issue.
>
> Topics in this digest:
>
>       1. RE: Print Server -  Was: QTR - GUI Problems...
>            From: "Ed Mertz" <edmertz@...>
>       2. Re: QTR - GUI Problems...
>            From: "richard_h95050" <richardh@...>
>       3. UT7 QTR profiles
>            From: "brouwerkent" <brouwerkent@...>
>       4. Re: Digest Number 2692
>            From: claudej1@...
>       5. More on Glop overcoating
>            From: "Steven Karafyllakis" <steve@...>
>       6. Re: Print Server -  Was: QTR - GUI Problems...
>            From: "steveabrink" <steveabrink@...>
>       7. Re: Print Server -  Was: QTR - GUI Problems...
>            From: "Michael Hung" <mhkhung@...>
>       8. RE: Re: Setting Monitor Luminance, Col Temp & Gamma
>            From: "Paul D. DeRocco" <pderocco@...>
>       9. Re: Print Server -  Was: QTR - GUI Problems...
>            From: "richard_h95050" <richardh@...>
>      10. RE: Setting Monitor Luminance, Col Temp & Gamma
>            From: "Paul D. DeRocco" <pderocco@...>
>      11. RE: Re: Print Server -  Was: QTR - GUI Problems...
>            From: "Stephen Billard" <stephen@...>
>      12. Re: More on Glop overcoating
>            From: "scott_now_coming" <scott_now_coming@...>
>      13. Re: More on Glop overcoating
>            From: Steve Kale <stevekale@btinternet.com>
>      14. Optimizing Images for the Web
>            From: "Steve Kale" <stevekale@...>
>      15. Re: Optimizing Images for the Web
>            From: Mark Savoia <mark@...>
>      16. Re: Optimizing Images for the Web
>            From: Steve Kale <stevekale@btinternet.com>
>      17. Re: Optimizing Images for the Web
>            From: Michael Poster <mposter@...>
>      18. Re: Optimizing Images for the Web
>            From: Mark Savoia <mark@...>
>      19. Re: Optimizing Images for the Web
>            From: Hans VR <hvr@...>
>      20. Re: Optimizing Images for the Web
>            From: "Phil Rose" <pjrose@...>
>      21. Re: Optimizing Images for the Web
>            From: Mark Savoia <mark@...>
>      22. Re: Re: Optimizing Images for the Web
>            From: Mark Savoia <mark@...>
>      23. Re: More on Glop overcoating
>            From: "Steven Karafyllakis" <steve@...>
>      24. Re: Optimizing Images for the Web
>            From: "Phil Rose" <pjrose@...>
>      25. Re: Optimizing Images for the Web
>            From: Hans VR <hvr@...>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 1
>    Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2004 12:38:19 -0700
>    From: "Ed Mertz" <edmertz@...>
> Subject: RE: Print Server -  Was: QTR - GUI Problems...
>
> Michael,
>
>
>
> Yes, the 9600 connects directly to the router via a Cat5 Etherlink  
> cable.
> You'll need the Etherlink card for the 9600.  Yes, the print servers  
> are
> still running from the image editing PC but the spoolers take over and  
> you
> can go back to editing while it's printing, albeit a bit slower at  
> times
> since you're sharing the computer.  You could set up a separate PC  
> just to
> be a print server, but unless you're in a high volume situation I don't
> think it will be worth the extra expense and complexity.
>
>
>
> The other printers are connected to the router via a Hawking (brand  
> name)
> Print Server, a little box that plugs into the printer USB or parallel
> connector and is then connected to the router via another Cat5  
> Etherlink
> cable.  You have to specify what type of connection (USB or Parallel)  
> you
> want when buying the print servers, because most of them are  
> single-duty.
>
>
>
> You may be able to use your wireless equipment, but I like hard wired  
> things
> - fewer problems.
>
>
>
> Ed
>
>
>
>   _____
>
> From: Michael Poster [mailto:mposter@...]
> Sent: Monday, December 20, 2004 12:17 PM
> To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [Digital BW] Print Server - Was: QTR - GUI Problems...
>
>
>
> Ed,
>
> So the 9600 connects directly to the router, yes? That makes sense to  
> me.
> But I guess I don't quite get how the parallel and USB printers are
> connected. And the print drivers are still running from your image  
> editing
> machine, yes?
>
> I've got a D-link wireless router and a small (wired/wireless) LAN  
> now. I
> was hoping to send files to a box in the other room and have it take  
> over
> printing functions from there. But if that's impossible, sending print  
> jobs
> via ethernet will still get me up and running.
>
> Michael
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 2
>    Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2004 20:37:16 -0000
>    From: "richard_h95050" <richardh@...>
> Subject: Re: QTR - GUI Problems...
>
>
> Hi All,
>
> I think we're all coming at this in a similar manner, and I didin't
> mean to imply that there was really any "simple" approach by using
> a "clean machine" -- just that some of the anomolies of the operating
> systems, how various programs treat your computer's integrity when
> they install and the inherent complexity of the technology itself --
> all these things confront us, confound us and compound our challenges
> of setting up each new system...
>
> As "The Wogster" pointed out, some programs enter your "house of
> computing" like a polite guest -- they're well mannered, behave
> nicely and respect your environment. Others are just the opposite --
> they throw their "stuff" (dll's and other bits and pieces) all over
> the place, and change your "house" to suit their stay. Pretty rude
> indeed, and sometimes it's not even so obvious until we install
> another nice program like QTR that needs to share the same resources
> and we find out they left muddy footprints all over the carpet ;>)
>
> Anyway, that was my basic point for suggesting the cleaner the
> machine, the easier it is to sort out some of these problems. Lots of
> people that depend on these wonderful computing machines for their
> livelihood as imagemakers wouldn't think of putting Microsoft Office
> on the same box that did all their post-processing and printing. Not
> to pick on ole' Bill Gates, or anything -- but it's a good example
> because since MS also builds Windows for us I think they feel
> entitled to muck around with it quite freely. But again, just an
> example -- some do it because they can, and some because they don't
> know any better ;>)
>
> In the "darkroom", I got to be pretty friendly with Decktol and the
> few other chemicals that I used because they made all the difference
> between getting the results I wanted or an evening of frustration
> under the safelight. I think the same approach needs to be taken
> here: chemistry seemed a lot simpler than computers, but a bit of
> pollution with either one and you're in a world of hurt ;>)
>
> Having worked my career in the Silicon Valley, I've felt pretty
> comfortable with the transition to the tools of our new "light-room"
> environment (Roy and I must have brushed shoulders a few times back
> then, but never really met -- just knew a lot of the same folks ;>))
>
> So it's from that perspective that I offered the suggestion that we
> make it as easy on ourselves as we can, because there are lots of
> complexities involved. Just like with darkroom chemistry, sometimes
> you get the best results with light-room printing equipment when you
> can keep it simple and control the exact (or not) "mixture" of what's
> on your machine as much as possible. Makes it easier for other people
> to help us through problems, and once everything is working smoothly
> we can relax a bit more.
>
> Still, I'm not writing this post on my main editing machine. I've
> grown up with computers since the days of CPM and TRS-80's, but the
> only thing on my editing room machine is what I need for editing.
> Yep, it's networked for ease of running print servers (wireless and
> not), moving stuff onto my raid-based "SAN" for safekeeping and
> burning, etc. But I keep it really clean otherwise. (What's that old
> joke? Clean mind, Clean body. Take your pick.)? Oh, well...
>
> Bottom line is there are some elegantly simple ways of entering
> into this incredibly rich world of new tools we have with our sanity
> relatively intact -- like the post right after my earlier one from
> the person who just discoverd the joys of the C86 and Paul's "EZ" UT
> inkset, augmented by Paul's informative response. Those wonderful
> tools can get you printing georgous "quad-tones" on a pretty polluted
> machine, just as long as the machine can still see the printer and
> send out a file.
>
> Of course, Paul has gone way beyond that with the vast array of
> inks, curves and techniques he's developed for us -- but the basic
> approach (with it's own set of nuances), can be less "computer
> dependent" than a RIP based system. (Note the operative term there
> is "can be..." since printer tempermant still plays a key role in any
> system ;>))
>
> In the end (and the beginning) I was only trying to support some
> folks in what sounded like mounting frustration with their Holiday
> printing projects -- but do believe that what I offer is sound advice
> about simplicity learned from that wonderful institution called "the
> school of hard knocks" ;>)
>
> So, I'll bow out here and just say Happy Holidays to all -- but not
> without borrowing and botching up a great term from a real pioneer in
> Piezography, Jon Cone: "may your highlights be dotless" and your
> computers free of frustrating bugs!
>
> Enjoy! This is a wonderful forum and a wealth of knowledge to all of
> us as we move forward in this great new artform together...
>
> Cheers!
> Richard
>
>
>
>
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Michael Hung"
> <mhkhung@y...> wrote:
>>
>> I don't have any problem setting up QTR on my machine, but it's my
>> machine and I (think at least) know networking and windows sharing
>> very well..
>>
>> It's not as simple as it sounds.. With Windows XP, Microsoft
> changed a
>> hell lot of default security and sharing parameters in Windows. And
>> there may be just a check-box difference for systems that works and
>> doesn't. The basic problem is the default file sharing. Prior to
>> Windows XP, all you need to share a printer, folder, etc is either
>> right-click on the folder and hit sharing; or issue the command "net
>> share sharename=..." in command prompt. In Windows XP, there are a
> few
>> more things to click before that will work (and I couldn't even
>> remember what they are now), and QTR relies on that.
>>
>> Michael
>>
>>> 1. As an old hand at working through some of these same kinds of
>>> issues, I'd like to pass on a really simple but fundamental tip
> that
>>> I learned the very hard way (meaning, I no longer have any hair
> left
>>> to pull out ;>)). That is: when all else fails, start with a
>>> clean, "plain vanilla" system.
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 3
>    Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 01:59:15 -0000
>    From: "brouwerkent" <brouwerkent@...>
> Subject: UT7 QTR profiles
>
>
>
> Interested in finding someone to help me create/calibrate a set of  
> profiles for
> UT7 and QTR.  I am using a paper that is not optimally matched to the  
> existing
> EEM profiles.  I am willing pay a fee, as long as the fee is not  
> exhorbitant.  I
> will print the targets as required.... I do not have access to a  
> densitometer.
>
> Please contact me off list @ phil@....
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 4
>    Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2004 21:16:58 EST
>    From: claudej1@...
> Subject: Re: Digest Number 2692
>
> In a message dated 12/20/2004 11:08:27 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com writes:
>
>> Fortunately, it does not appear
>> to be the general tenor of this board, but it has gone a long way  
>> toward
>> turning me into a
>> lurker, rather than a contributor.
>>
>> There are always "list bullies" and it has been my apparent  
>> misfortune to
>> run into one.
>>
>> I consider this matter closed now, and although there will most  
>> likely be
>> further personal
>> attacks, I'll refrain from replying, since I believe my postings to be
>> correct, not "gross
>> misinformation" unless it can be otherwise shown.
>>
>>
>> Upon re-reading my original responses, I can see where this would  
>> seem to be
> a personal attack. It was meant to be an attack on issues, not the  
> person, so
> for that error, I do apologize.
>
> I have not historically ever been a list bully, but I can see where  
> one might
> thing otherwise from those posts. I guess we all have bad days.
>
> The orignal post had what I percived to be "authoritative" sounding and
> struck a cord with my senses in more ways than one.
>
> Let's just say that if you look at the information interchance in  
> general, it
> wasn't that bad, when you filter out the stuff that sounded personal  
> (which
> it wasn't).
>
> thanks for your time in either case, and I shall also consider this  
> matter
> closed.
>
> Claude
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 5
>    Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 02:21:24 -0000
>    From: "Steven Karafyllakis" <steve@...>
> Subject: More on Glop overcoating
>
>
> A further report and observations on overcoating with MIS gloss
> optimizer. Some bad news, I'm afraid, at least for those of us using
> the MIS UC inks.
>  After switching my K from the 'Universal' to MIS PK and gloss-
> coating with the 1280, I started getting some very good dmax, far
> better than I've gotten with matte K on Photorag. The problems
> however, started a few hours after making the prints, when the gloss
> coat really started to dry. The dark gray areas gradually lost their
> gloss, and in some cases actually bronzed up again, and looked very
> flat. Not the results I'd gotten with the full color prints.
> The glossy papers hardly suffered at all, but the semi-matte showed
> the effect heavily, especially with low-key but not black areas. The
> problem seemd to involve only the dark grays, IOW the LK printed
> areas. I then did a full-page gray-scale, and coated 5 sections with
> 5 different levels of glop, using the Epson driver sliders to
> control the lay-down.
> After dry-down, 2 things became obvious: 1) While the 100% K band
> retained the gloss, the bands from 95% to about 75% matted and
> bronzed again. 2) The heaviest glop coat retained the gloss most
> consistently. 20% may work if you're mixing it into the ink, but
> this way, you need more like 120% for a solid coat.
>
> A later test of the Epson Premium semi-gloss was more successful: a
> day later the surface felt dry, no visible dry-down effects, and a
> killer tonal range. So far with this ink combination, the Epson
> premium semi-gloss is the winner.
>
> Other papers tested:
>
> Epson PGPP
> Epson Prem. semi-matte
> Oriental Graphica luster
> Proof-Line semimatte DP and Glossy DP
> Kirkland Glossy (the Swiss-made)
>
> I'm hoping that this problem has to do with the MIS LK ink, so I've
> ordered a cart of the Epson to test; If the Epson ink is better, A
> much lighter coat might do the job.
> This of course means switching and flushing the LK line, so I'd like
> to put out a request to those list members running QTR on PC who
> have an idea how to do this, for a curve that will run the LK
> channel only, at full tilt. Or a description of what it needs to
> look like at any rate, or a link to that info if it is already
> available.
>
> Some further observations-
>
> Drying the prints before gloss-coating does not seem to be
> neccessary. The prints I've had least trouble with, I dried quickly
> with a few seconds of hair drier blast, and fed right through the
> gloss coat stage.
>
> If you use a desktop printer for the gloss, the pizza-wheels MUST
> go. Even at the slowest feed setting the glop coat is too soft to
> take the abuse. This causes problems with last half-inch of paper if
> you're overcoating all the way out. Easy enough to allow for it with
> a border.
>
> Nozzle checks need to be done on an instant-dry glossy or semi-gloss
> paper, so you can see the reflection on the pattern, and so the
> other ink colors don't get on your rollers and then on your next
> print. I had been using the back of RC paper-the zero absorption
> makes the gloss coat easy to see, but cost me a couple of otherwise
> good prints.
>
> I've had the glop cart in the 1280 for a couple days now, no
> clogging problems yet, only the occasional cleaning cycle needed, so
> far so good. It hasn't been as trouble-free as running dyes, but
> easier than pigments.
>
> The glop is easy to refill in the annoying 1280 carts. I've found I
> don't have to pull out the remaining ink/foam-I'm getting 10-15ml in
> the bottom with no BS. Wonderfull, considering these carts are small
> and coating an entire piece of paper eats the stuff up in a hurry.
> Good thing it's cheap in bulk.
>
> QTR is working very well for this. So far I've used only the EEM
> profiles for all the RC papers I've tested, and I have no problem
> fine-tuning any given pair without-split-toning, crossover or
> visible metamerism. I do have to use the 1440 super and
> unidirectional printing to get as smooth and micro-banding free a
> print as I like, but I would use that setting regardless.
> What the heck, I think I'll go ahead and pay for it...
>
> Print protection being an issue, I tried waxing a couple of the
> prints that dried properly-it works well, the wax goes on smoothly
> and easily, and buffs up nicely. No more skid-marks or fingerprints,
> thank you. Very different from trying to wax a straight UC print. I
> don't know how much protection wax adds, but it's got to be good for
> something more than just smudge resistance.
>
> That's it so far;
> I'd be interested in hearing from others trying this out,
> particularly anyone using straight Epson UC inks; any problems?
>
> Steve Karafyllakis
>
> http://www.stevekphoto.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 6
>    Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 02:52:37 -0000
>    From: "steveabrink" <steveabrink@...>
> Subject: Re: Print Server -  Was: QTR - GUI Problems...
>
>
> Thankd for the good info...!  But before I go through the hassle of
> setting up a print server, it would be great to get Steve Billard's
> feedback on doing this...?
>
> Also, real basic ?, how do I check the firewall setting is off in
> W2K...?  Or is there one...?
>
> Finally, can any windows developers out their think of any other
> settings that would stop QTR GUI from sending data to port for
> printing...?
>
> Thanks in advance!
> Steve B
>
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, Michael Poster
> <mposter@w...> wrote:
>> I'll betray my ignorance here, but what the heck. I've been reading
> recent
>> messages about print servers and am intrigued. I'm thinking about
> getting a
>> 7600 (or the next iteration) and have been wondering about how I'll
> set it up.
>>
>> I'm on Win XP and have my 2200 direct connected to the PC via USB.
> It's
>> printing color through the Epson driver and BW using QTR / QTRgui.
> The
>> biggest problem I believe I'll have setting up the larger printer
> is space.
>> I will have to place the printer outside my office in an adjacent
> work room
>> and I may have to exceed acceptable USB cable length to get
> connected. It's
>> also an intriguing idea to get the print-driving software running
> on
>> another machine while I continue to work in Photoshop on subsequent
> images.
>>
>> It seems that with QTRgui's watched folder capability I could send
> a file
>> to a networked machine in the work room serving the printers and
> QTR would
>> take over and print. Have I got that right? Is there some way to do
> the
>> same when printing color through the Epson driver?
>>
>> Michael
>>
>> At 09:58 AM 12/20/2004, you wrote:
>>> One solution, if you have a spare computer (that PII-200 with 32MB
> of
>>> RAM and the 2.0GB hard disk, that's ready for the garbage, will do
>>> nicely here).  Can be reinstalled from bare metal, simply as a
> print
>>> server.  Linux can be a solution for a lot of problems here, in
> that it
>>> can run headless (no monitor, keyboard or mouse) just with the RIP
>>> engine and the printer attached, running networking and samba so
> that
>>> your Windows PC can use it.
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 7
>    Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 03:23:54 -0000
>    From: "Michael Hung" <mhkhung@...>
> Subject: Re: Print Server -  Was: QTR - GUI Problems...
>
>
> There's no Windows firewall in W2K. So unless you bought one, there
> shouldn't be a firewall. (And you are really not safe if you just put
> your machine on the internet).
>
> Anyway, if you know how to use command prompt (Start->Run->cmd), open
> it and type "net share". See any shared directories and the QTR
> printer there? Mine shows "Quad1270" pointing to USB0001. And other
> directories such as "C$".
>
> (C$ is special.. don't really need to worry about security implication)
>
> Next, try type "dir \\127.0.0.1\C$" into command prompt. See if you
> can see your root directory. If it works then QTR should work in  
> theory.
>
> Michael
>
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "steveabrink"
> <steveabrink@y...> wrote:
>>
>> Thankd for the good info...!  But before I go through the hassle of
>> setting up a print server, it would be great to get Steve Billard's
>> feedback on doing this...?
>>
>> Also, real basic ?, how do I check the firewall setting is off in
>> W2K...?  Or is there one...?
>>
>> Finally, can any windows developers out their think of any other
>> settings that would stop QTR GUI from sending data to port for
>> printing...?
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 8
>    Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2004 20:34:15 -0800
>    From: "Paul D. DeRocco" <pderocco@...>
> Subject: RE: Re: Setting Monitor Luminance, Col Temp & Gamma
>
>> From: bruce greene [mailto:bagreene@...]
>>
>> A Variac is a big light dimmer. A large variable resistor. They come  
>> in
>> many different sizes depending upon the amount of electricity used.
>>
>> As more resistance is applied, the voltage to the lamp drops and the
>> light output decreases while the color temp also decreases.
>>
>> By the use of the dimmer, I assume that the Solux halogens are  
>> filtered
>> in such a way as to produce light (at normal voltage) of above 5000K.
>
> Actually, it's a variable transformer, which has a range that allows  
> for
> some step-up, not just dimming. Since the fixtures are Chinese, they  
> are
> designed for 125V, and the bulbs were running well below 5000K without  
> the
> variac.
>
> --
>
> Ciao,               Paul D. DeRocco
> Paul                mailto:pderocco@...
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 9
>    Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 04:42:08 -0000
>    From: "richard_h95050" <richardh@...>
> Subject: Re: Print Server -  Was: QTR - GUI Problems...
>
>
> Steve,
>
> Michael's got you pointed in the right direction here. You need to
> break things down into simple pieces because the QTR/GUI isn't a real
> complicated duo. Two things:
>
> 1. In case I missed it in an earlier part of your thread, have you
> tried running QTR without the GUI? You're dealing with two programs
> here and it would be good to isolate the problem -- Roy has pretty
> clear directions on how to run QTR "raw"
>
> 2. When you run "net share" from the command prompt like Michael
> suggests, do you also see both your printer and a line that reads
> something like "print$ C:\WINNT\systema32\spool\drivers"?
>
> Depending on whether that line is present and if you're spooling your
> output or sending RAW data to the printer may play a part in your
> problem -- Roy and/or Steve can fill you in more on how their
> respective code deals with the Win2K print spooler.
>
> If you can print from Photoshop (or any other app) to your printer and
> you're not using a print server, the firewall is a non-issue as
> Michael suggests. However, do you have any security software of any
> sort running on your machine? Are you logged in as and have you
> installed all the software in this loop (including your printer
> drivers, QTR and GUI with Admin privileges or as the same user?
>
> And again, in case I missed it, you are networked on the machine
> you're printing from or have a loopback adapter installed, right? And
> since you're using USB, you've checked for any port mismatches that
> may have been introduced when you set up your printer share, yes?
>
> Michael -- FYI I've got about 30+ feet between my 9600 and my editing
> machine. It's a tad over "spec" but I am using a good heavy cable with
> ferrite cores, so I haven't had a bit of trouble with the distance for
> either my 9600 or 7000. Also, you can always drop a good powered hub
> or repeater in the line if noise is an issue, go ethernet, or if your
> network is wireless, the USB wireless adapters are getting very
> inexpensive. Distance should be no problem for you...
>
> Cheers!
>
> Richard
>
>
>
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "steveabrink"
> <steveabrink@y...> wrote:
>>
>> Thankd for the good info...!  But before I go through the hassle of
>> setting up a print server, it would be great to get Steve Billard's
>> feedback on doing this...?
>>
>> Also, real basic ?, how do I check the firewall setting is off in
>> W2K...?  Or is there one...?
>>
>> Finally, can any windows developers out their think of any other
>> settings that would stop QTR GUI from sending data to port for
>> printing...?
>>
>> Thanks in advance!
>> Steve B
>>
>> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, Michael Poster
>> <mposter@w...> wrote:
>>> I'll betray my ignorance here, but what the heck. I've been
> reading
>> recent
>>> messages about print servers and am intrigued. I'm thinking about
>> getting a
>>> 7600 (or the next iteration) and have been wondering about how
> I'll
>> set it up.
>>>
>>> I'm on Win XP and have my 2200 direct connected to the PC via
> USB.
>> It's
>>> printing color through the Epson driver and BW using QTR /
> QTRgui.
>> The
>>> biggest problem I believe I'll have setting up the larger printer
>> is space.
>>> I will have to place the printer outside my office in an adjacent
>> work room
>>> and I may have to exceed acceptable USB cable length to get
>> connected. It's
>>> also an intriguing idea to get the print-driving software running
>> on
>>> another machine while I continue to work in Photoshop on
> subsequent
>> images.
>>>
>>> It seems that with QTRgui's watched folder capability I could
> send
>> a file
>>> to a networked machine in the work room serving the printers and
>> QTR would
>>> take over and print. Have I got that right? Is there some way to
> do
>> the
>>> same when printing color through the Epson driver?
>>>
>>> Michael
>>>
>>> At 09:58 AM 12/20/2004, you wrote:
>>>> One solution, if you have a spare computer (that PII-200 with
> 32MB
>> of
>>>> RAM and the 2.0GB hard disk, that's ready for the garbage, will
> do
>>>> nicely here).  Can be reinstalled from bare metal, simply as a
>> print
>>>> server.  Linux can be a solution for a lot of problems here, in
>> that it
>>>> can run headless (no monitor, keyboard or mouse) just with the
> RIP
>>>> engine and the printer attached, running networking and samba so
>> that
>>>> your Windows PC can use it.
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 10
>    Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2004 21:08:07 -0800
>    From: "Paul D. DeRocco" <pderocco@...>
> Subject: RE: Setting Monitor Luminance, Col Temp & Gamma
>
>> From: Pieris Berreitter [mailto:pieris@...]
>>
>> Running the solexes at the voltage required to get 5000K (about
>> 13.2V) would reduce life significantly (by more than half)... but
>> what I'm interested in knowing is what kind of fixture you are using.
>> I am considering building something given the high cost of the retail
>> fixtures.
>
> Some crappy Chinese track lighting, with high-frequency switching
> down-converters built into each fixture. I don't have the boxes any  
> more,
> but the fixtures themselves say WAC on them, whoever that is. Works  
> fine,
> though.
>
> However, you won't get 5000K unless you can step the voltage up a  
> little. I
> just happened to have an old variable transformer lying around, so I  
> used
> it.
>
> --
>
> Ciao,               Paul D. DeRocco
> Paul                mailto:pderocco@...
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 11
>    Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2004 21:24:12 -0800
>    From: "Stephen Billard" <stephen@...>
> Subject: RE: Re: Print Server -  Was: QTR - GUI Problems...
>
> If you just set up a print server you will necessarily have to set up  
> a full
> blown network. That alone may solve your problem, even without  
> connecting
> your printer to the print server. All the problems with printing that  
> have
> been resolved were either improperly set up networking or improperly  
> shared
> printers.
>
> As to the firewall, go to the control panel. There you will find an  
> icon for
> the Windows Firewall. (At least if you are running XP SP2.)
>
> Finally, just a minor point. QTRgui is just the front end to Roy's  
> print
> driver software--QuadToneRIP. It is doing all the real work here.
>
> -Stephen
>  www.sbillard.org/Stephen
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: steveabrink [mailto:steveabrink@...]
>> Sent: Monday, December 20, 2004 6:53 PM
>> To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
>> Subject: [Digital BW] Re: Print Server - Was: QTR - GUI Problems...
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Thankd for the good info...!  But before I go through the hassle of
>> setting up a print server, it would be great to get Steve Billard's
>> feedback on doing this...?
>>
>> Also, real basic ?, how do I check the firewall setting is off in
>> W2K...?  Or is there one...?
>>
>> Finally, can any windows developers out their think of any other
>> settings that would stop QTR GUI from sending data to port for
>> printing...?
>>
>> Thanks in advance!
>> Steve B
>>
>> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, Michael Poster
>> <mposter@w...> wrote:
>>> I'll betray my ignorance here, but what the heck. I've been reading
>> recent
>>> messages about print servers and am intrigued. I'm thinking about
>> getting a
>>> 7600 (or the next iteration) and have been wondering about how I'll
>> set it up.
>>>
>>> I'm on Win XP and have my 2200 direct connected to the PC via USB.
>> It's
>>> printing color through the Epson driver and BW using QTR / QTRgui.
>> The
>>> biggest problem I believe I'll have setting up the larger printer
>> is space.
>>> I will have to place the printer outside my office in an adjacent
>> work room
>>> and I may have to exceed acceptable USB cable length to get
>> connected. It's
>>> also an intriguing idea to get the print-driving software running
>> on
>>> another machine while I continue to work in Photoshop on subsequent
>> images.
>>>
>>> It seems that with QTRgui's watched folder capability I could send
>> a file
>>> to a networked machine in the work room serving the printers and
>> QTR would
>>> take over and print. Have I got that right? Is there some way to do
>> the
>>> same when printing color through the Epson driver?
>>>
>>> Michael
>>>
>>> At 09:58 AM 12/20/2004, you wrote:
>>>> One solution, if you have a spare computer (that PII-200 with 32MB
>> of
>>>> RAM and the 2.0GB hard disk, that's ready for the garbage, will do
>>>> nicely here).  Can be reinstalled from bare metal, simply as a
>> print
>>>> server.  Linux can be a solution for a lot of problems here, in
>> that it
>>>> can run headless (no monitor, keyboard or mouse) just with the RIP
>>>> engine and the printer attached, running networking and samba so
>> that
>>>> your Windows PC can use it.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, and other
>> resources as they are often being updated.
>>
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
>>
>> If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or
>> you wish to unsubscribe, please edit your Membership
>> preferences by visiting this same page.
>>
>> Please follow these basic guidelines:
>> - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier
>> messages to keep them short.
>> - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks
>> or flames. Hostile, aggressive or argumentative users may be
>> removed from the membership without notice.
>> - Keep your posts and threads related to the group topic of
>> digital B&W printing. Users who persistently make off-topic
>> posts may be removed from the membership.
>> - By posting on this forum you agree to abide by the group
>> rules and guidelines, and to abide by the actions and
>> decisions of the group Owner and Moderators. See "Group
>> Topic, Rules and Guidelines" in the Files section:
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint/files/
>>
>> BY PARTICIPATING IN AND/OR POSTING MESSAGES TO THE DIGITAL
>> BW, THE PRINT YAHOO! GROUP YOU EXPRESSLY UNDERSTAND AND AGREE
>> THAT THE "OWNER" AND "MODERATORS" OF DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT
>> YAHOO GROUP SHALL NOT BE LIABLE TO YOU FOR ANY DIRECT,
>> INDIRECT, INCIDENTAL, SPECIAL, CONSEQUENTIAL OR EXEMPLARY
>> DAMAGES, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DAMAGES FOR LOSS OF
>> PROFITS, GOODWILL, USE, DATA OR OTHER INTANGIBLE LOSSES (EVEN
>> IF THE  "OWNER" AND "MODERATORS" OF DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT
>> YAHOO GROUP HAVE BEEN ADVISED OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
>> DAMAGES), RESULTING FROM: (i) THE USE OR THE INABILITY TO USE
>> THE DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP; (ii) UNAUTHORIZED
>> ACCESS TO OR ALTERATION OF YOUR TRANSMISSIONS OR DATA; (iii)
>> STATEMENTS OR CONDUCT OF ANY THIRD PARTY ON THE DIGITAL BW,
>> THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP; OR (iv) ANY OTHER MATTER RELATING TO
>> THE DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP.
>>
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 12
>    Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 06:09:54 -0000
>    From: "scott_now_coming" <scott_now_coming@yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: More on Glop overcoating
>
>
>
> Hi Steve,
>
> What wax are you using to wax a print?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Scott
>
>
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Steven
> Karafyllakis" <steve@s...> wrote:
>>
>> A further report and observations on overcoating with MIS gloss
>> optimizer. Some bad news, I'm afraid, at least for those of us
> using
>> the MIS UC inks.
>>  After switching my K from the 'Universal' to MIS PK and gloss-
>> coating with the 1280, I started getting some very good dmax, far
>> better than I've gotten with matte K on Photorag. The problems
>> however, started a few hours after making the prints, when the
> gloss
>> coat really started to dry. The dark gray areas gradually lost
> their
>> gloss, and in some cases actually bronzed up again, and looked very
>> flat. Not the results I'd gotten with the full color prints.
>> The glossy papers hardly suffered at all, but the semi-matte showed
>> the effect heavily, especially with low-key but not black areas.
> The
>> problem seemd to involve only the dark grays, IOW the LK printed
>> areas. I then did a full-page gray-scale, and coated 5 sections
> with
>> 5 different levels of glop, using the Epson driver sliders to
>> control the lay-down.
>> After dry-down, 2 things became obvious: 1) While the 100% K band
>> retained the gloss, the bands from 95% to about 75% matted and
>> bronzed again. 2) The heaviest glop coat retained the gloss most
>> consistently. 20% may work if you're mixing it into the ink, but
>> this way, you need more like 120% for a solid coat.
>>
>> A later test of the Epson Premium semi-gloss was more successful: a
>> day later the surface felt dry, no visible dry-down effects, and a
>> killer tonal range. So far with this ink combination, the Epson
>> premium semi-gloss is the winner.
>>
>> Other papers tested:
>>
>> Epson PGPP
>> Epson Prem. semi-matte
>> Oriental Graphica luster
>> Proof-Line semimatte DP and Glossy DP
>> Kirkland Glossy (the Swiss-made)
>>
>> I'm hoping that this problem has to do with the MIS LK ink, so I've
>> ordered a cart of the Epson to test; If the Epson ink is better, A
>> much lighter coat might do the job.
>> This of course means switching and flushing the LK line, so I'd
> like
>> to put out a request to those list members running QTR on PC who
>> have an idea how to do this, for a curve that will run the LK
>> channel only, at full tilt. Or a description of what it needs to
>> look like at any rate, or a link to that info if it is already
>> available.
>>
>> Some further observations-
>>
>> Drying the prints before gloss-coating does not seem to be
>> neccessary. The prints I've had least trouble with, I dried quickly
>> with a few seconds of hair drier blast, and fed right through the
>> gloss coat stage.
>>
>> If you use a desktop printer for the gloss, the pizza-wheels MUST
>> go. Even at the slowest feed setting the glop coat is too soft to
>> take the abuse. This causes problems with last half-inch of paper
> if
>> you're overcoating all the way out. Easy enough to allow for it
> with
>> a border.
>>
>> Nozzle checks need to be done on an instant-dry glossy or semi-
> gloss
>> paper, so you can see the reflection on the pattern, and so the
>> other ink colors don't get on your rollers and then on your next
>> print. I had been using the back of RC paper-the zero absorption
>> makes the gloss coat easy to see, but cost me a couple of otherwise
>> good prints.
>>
>> I've had the glop cart in the 1280 for a couple days now, no
>> clogging problems yet, only the occasional cleaning cycle needed,
> so
>> far so good. It hasn't been as trouble-free as running dyes, but
>> easier than pigments.
>>
>> The glop is easy to refill in the annoying 1280 carts. I've found I
>> don't have to pull out the remaining ink/foam-I'm getting 10-15ml
> in
>> the bottom with no BS. Wonderfull, considering these carts are
> small
>> and coating an entire piece of paper eats the stuff up in a hurry.
>> Good thing it's cheap in bulk.
>>
>> QTR is working very well for this. So far I've used only the EEM
>> profiles for all the RC papers I've tested, and I have no problem
>> fine-tuning any given pair without-split-toning, crossover or
>> visible metamerism. I do have to use the 1440 super and
>> unidirectional printing to get as smooth and micro-banding free a
>> print as I like, but I would use that setting regardless.
>> What the heck, I think I'll go ahead and pay for it...
>>
>> Print protection being an issue, I tried waxing a couple of the
>> prints that dried properly-it works well, the wax goes on smoothly
>> and easily, and buffs up nicely. No more skid-marks or
> fingerprints,
>> thank you. Very different from trying to wax a straight UC print. I
>> don't know how much protection wax adds, but it's got to be good
> for
>> something more than just smudge resistance.
>>
>> That's it so far;
>> I'd be interested in hearing from others trying this out,
>> particularly anyone using straight Epson UC inks; any problems?
>>
>> Steve Karafyllakis
>>
>> http://www.stevekphoto.com
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 13
>    Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 09:35:42 +0000
>    From: Steve Kale <stevekale@...>
> Subject: Re: More on Glop overcoating
>
> In a 1280 the ink should flush out with a couple of purge pattern  
> prints.
> If you really want to mess with a QTR curve to just flush LK then  
> simply
> create a new curve with LIMIT_LK=100 and all other inks set at 0 and  
> adjust
> the partitioning to one ink etc - pretty straight forward.  You should  
> try
> using an RC QTR curve instead of EEM.  With levels as high as 120% you  
> will
> start to incur the tint of the glop - according to Carl it is not  
> perfectly
> clear.  Why don't you edit a curve and add the glop (15-20% flat  
> coverage)
> as the ink is laid down.
>
>
>> From: Steven Karafyllakis <steve@...>
>> Reply-To: <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com>
>> Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 02:21:24 -0000
>> To: <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com>
>> Subject: [Digital BW] More on Glop overcoating
>>
>>
>>
>> A further report and observations on overcoating with MIS gloss
>> optimizer. Some bad news, I'm afraid, at least for those of us using
>> the MIS UC inks.
>>  After switching my K from the 'Universal' to MIS PK and gloss-
>> coating with the 1280, I started getting some very good dmax, far
>> better than I've gotten with matte K on Photorag. The problems
>> however, started a few hours after making the prints, when the gloss
>> coat really started to dry. The dark gray areas gradually lost their
>> gloss, and in some cases actually bronzed up again, and looked very
>> flat. Not the results I'd gotten with the full color prints.
>> The glossy papers hardly suffered at all, but the semi-matte showed
>> the effect heavily, especially with low-key but not black areas. The
>> problem seemd to involve only the dark grays, IOW the LK printed
>> areas. I then did a full-page gray-scale, and coated 5 sections with
>> 5 different levels of glop, using the Epson driver sliders to
>> control the lay-down.
>> After dry-down, 2 things became obvious: 1) While the 100% K band
>> retained the gloss, the bands from 95% to about 75% matted and
>> bronzed again. 2) The heaviest glop coat retained the gloss most
>> consistently. 20% may work if you're mixing it into the ink, but
>> this way, you need more like 120% for a solid coat.
>>
>> A later test of the Epson Premium semi-gloss was more successful: a
>> day later the surface felt dry, no visible dry-down effects, and a
>> killer tonal range. So far with this ink combination, the Epson
>> premium semi-gloss is the winner.
>>
>> Other papers tested:
>>
>> Epson PGPP
>> Epson Prem. semi-matte
>> Oriental Graphica luster
>> Proof-Line semimatte DP and Glossy DP
>> Kirkland Glossy (the Swiss-made)
>>
>> I'm hoping that this problem has to do with the MIS LK ink, so I've
>> ordered a cart of the Epson to test; If the Epson ink is better, A
>> much lighter coat might do the job.
>> This of course means switching and flushing the LK line, so I'd like
>> to put out a request to those list members running QTR on PC who
>> have an idea how to do this, for a curve that will run the LK
>> channel only, at full tilt. Or a description of what it needs to
>> look like at any rate, or a link to that info if it is already
>> available.
>>
>> Some further observations-
>>
>> Drying the prints before gloss-coating does not seem to be
>> neccessary. The prints I've had least trouble with, I dried quickly
>> with a few seconds of hair drier blast, and fed right through the
>> gloss coat stage.
>>
>> If you use a desktop printer for the gloss, the pizza-wheels MUST
>> go. Even at the slowest feed setting the glop coat is too soft to
>> take the abuse. This causes problems with last half-inch of paper if
>> you're overcoating all the way out. Easy enough to allow for it with
>> a border.
>>
>> Nozzle checks need to be done on an instant-dry glossy or semi-gloss
>> paper, so you can see the reflection on the pattern, and so the
>> other ink colors don't get on your rollers and then on your next
>> print. I had been using the back of RC paper-the zero absorption
>> makes the gloss coat easy to see, but cost me a couple of otherwise
>> good prints.
>>
>> I've had the glop cart in the 1280 for a couple days now, no
>> clogging problems yet, only the occasional cleaning cycle needed, so
>> far so good. It hasn't been as trouble-free as running dyes, but
>> easier than pigments.
>>
>> The glop is easy to refill in the annoying 1280 carts. I've found I
>> don't have to pull out the remaining ink/foam-I'm getting 10-15ml in
>> the bottom with no BS. Wonderfull, considering these carts are small
>> and coating an entire piece of paper eats the stuff up in a hurry.
>> Good thing it's cheap in bulk.
>>
>> QTR is working very well for this. So far I've used only the EEM
>> profiles for all the RC papers I've tested, and I have no problem
>> fine-tuning any given pair without-split-toning, crossover or
>> visible metamerism. I do have to use the 1440 super and
>> unidirectional printing to get as smooth and micro-banding free a
>> print as I like, but I would use that setting regardless.
>> What the heck, I think I'll go ahead and pay for it...
>>
>> Print protection being an issue, I tried waxing a couple of the
>> prints that dried properly-it works well, the wax goes on smoothly
>> and easily, and buffs up nicely. No more skid-marks or fingerprints,
>> thank you. Very different from trying to wax a straight UC print. I
>> don't know how much protection wax adds, but it's got to be good for
>> something more than just smudge resistance.
>>
>> That's it so far;
>> I'd be interested in hearing from others trying this out,
>> particularly anyone using straight Epson UC inks; any problems?
>>
>> Steve Karafyllakis
>>
>> http://www.stevekphoto.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, and other  
>> resources as
>> they are often being updated.
>>
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
>>
>> If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish  
>> to
>> unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting this  
>> same
>> page.
>>
>> Please follow these basic guidelines:
>> - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to  
>> keep
>> them short.
>> - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or  
>> flames.
>> Hostile, aggressive or argumentative users may be removed from the  
>> membership
>> without notice.
>> - Keep your posts and threads related to the group topic of digital  
>> B&W
>> printing. Users who persistently make off-topic posts may be removed  
>> from the
>> membership.
>> - By posting on this forum you agree to abide by the group rules and
>> guidelines, and to abide by the actions and decisions of the group  
>> Owner and
>> Moderators. See *Group Topic, Rules and Guidelines* in the Files  
>> section:
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint/files/
>>
>> BY PARTICIPATING IN AND/OR POSTING MESSAGES TO THE DIGITAL BW, THE  
>> PRINT
>> YAHOO! GROUP YOU EXPRESSLY UNDERSTAND AND AGREE THAT THE *OWNER* AND
>> *MODERATORS* OF DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP SHALL NOT BE LIABLE  
>> TO YOU
>> FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, INCIDENTAL, SPECIAL, CONSEQUENTIAL OR  
>> EXEMPLARY
>> DAMAGES, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DAMAGES FOR LOSS OF PROFITS,  
>> GOODWILL,
>> USE, DATA OR OTHER INTANGIBLE LOSSES (EVEN IF THE  *OWNER* AND  
>> *MODERATORS* OF
>> DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP HAVE BEEN ADVISED OF THE  
>> POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
>> DAMAGES), RESULTING FROM: (i) THE USE OR THE INABILITY TO USE THE  
>> DIGITAL BW,
>> THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP; (ii) UNAUTHORIZED ACCESS TO OR ALTERATION OF  
>> YOUR
>> TRANSMISSIONS OR DATA; (iii) STATEMENTS OR CONDUCT OF ANY THIRD PARTY  
>> ON THE
>> DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP; OR (iv) ANY OTHER MATTER RELATING  
>> TO THE
>> DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP.
>>
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 14
>    Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 14:48:21 -0000
>    From: "Steve Kale" <stevekale@...>
> Subject: Optimizing Images for the Web
>
>
> What is the best way to optimize an image for display on the web?  I  
> have a very simple
> website using .Mac Homepage but need to optimize my images before  
> placing them in my
> iDisk folder.  What is the best way to do this? Save for Web from  
> Photoshop?
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 15
>    Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 09:56:32 -0500
>    From: Mark Savoia <mark@ctphoto.com>
> Subject: Re: Optimizing Images for the Web
>
> That does a pretty good job. Play around with the settings and see what
> the least file size you can get away with. Also try doing it with
> slices in PS.
> Mark
>
> On Dec 21, 2004, at 9:48 AM, Steve Kale wrote:
>
>>
>>  What is the best way to optimize an image for display on the web?  I
>> have a very simple
>>  website using .Mac Homepage but need to optimize my images before
>> placing them in my
>>  iDisk folder.  What is the best way to do this? Save for Web from
>> Photoshop?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, and other
>> resources as they are often being updated.
>>
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
>>
>>  If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish
>> to unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting
>> this same page.
>>
>>  Please follow these basic guidelines:
>>  - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to
>> keep them short.
>>  - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or
>> flames. Hostile, aggressive or argumentative users may be removed from
>> the membership without notice.
>>  - Keep your posts and threads related to the group topic of digital
>> B&W printing. Users who persistently make off-topic posts may be
>> removed from the membership.
>>  - By posting on this forum you agree to abide by the group rules and
>> guidelines, and to abide by the actions and decisions of the group
>> Owner and Moderators. See “Group Topic, Rules and Guidelines” in the
>> Files section:
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint/files/
>>
>>  BY PARTICIPATING IN AND/OR POSTING MESSAGES TO THE DIGITAL BW, THE
>> PRINT YAHOO! GROUP YOU EXPRESSLY UNDERSTAND AND AGREE THAT THE “OWNER”
>> AND “MODERATORS” OF DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP SHALL NOT BE
>> LIABLE TO YOU FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, INCIDENTAL, SPECIAL,
>> CONSEQUENTIAL OR EXEMPLARY DAMAGES, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO,
>> DAMAGES FOR LOSS OF PROFITS, GOODWILL, USE, DATA OR OTHER INTANGIBLE
>> LOSSES (EVEN IF THE  “OWNER” AND “MODERATORS” OF DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT
>> YAHOO GROUP HAVE BEEN ADVISED OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH DAMAGES),
>> RESULTING FROM: (i) THE USE OR THE INABILITY TO USE THE DIGITAL BW,
>> THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP; (ii) UNAUTHORIZED ACCESS TO OR ALTERATION OF
>> YOUR TRANSMISSIONS OR DATA; (iii) STATEMENTS OR CONDUCT OF ANY THIRD
>> PARTY ON THE DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP; OR (iv) ANY OTHER
>> MATTER RELATING TO THE DIGITAL BW, THE PRINT YAHOO GROUP.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 16
>    Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 15:02:47 +0000
>    From: Steve Kale <stevekale@...>
> Subject: Re: Optimizing Images for the Web
>
> Slices?
>
> Also if you use Save for Web do you down-res the file before using it?  
>  If
> so what to? The original files are large 10x15in @480ppi.
>
> Thanks
>
> Steve
>
>
>> From: Mark Savoia <mark@ctphoto.com>
>> Reply-To: <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com>
>> Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 09:56:32 -0500
>> To: <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com>
>> Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Optimizing Images for the Web
>>
>>
>> That does a pretty good job. Play around with the settings and see  
>> what
>> the least file size you can get away with. Also try doing it with
>> slices in PS.
>> Mark
>>
>> On Dec 21, 2004, at 9:48 AM, Steve Kale wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>  What is the best way to optimize an image for display on the web?  I
>>> have a very simple
>>>  website using .Mac Homepage but need to optimize my images before
>>> placing them in my
>>>  iDisk folder.  What is the best way to do this? Save for Web from
>>> Photoshop?
>>>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 17
>    Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 10:14:59 -0500
>    From: Michael Poster <mposter@...>
> Subject: Re: Optimizing Images for the Web
>
> At 10:02 AM 12/21/2004, you wrote:
>> Slices?
>
> Not sure you really want to use slices here. They're typically for  
> building
> complex pages from large composite images. I don't really think slices  
> are
> the way to go for presenting pictures.
>
>
>> Also if you use Save for Web do you down-res the file before using  
>> it?  If
>> so what to?
>
> Yes, you resample down using bicubic or bicubic sharper. Size is your
> choice, but is often between 500 - 1000 pixels (long dimension). You  
> don't
> have to worry about ppi. Just change your pixels sizes in the image  
> size
> dialog. That works.
>
> If your image is color (RGB) you want to convert to sRGB for web  
> viewing as
> well. Image > Mode > Convert to profile.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>> The original files are large 10x15in @480ppi.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Steve
>>
>>
>>> From: Mark Savoia <mark@...>
>>> Reply-To: <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com>
>>> Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 09:56:32 -0500
>>> To: <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com>
>>> Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Optimizing Images for the Web
>>>
>>>
>>> That does a pretty good job. Play around with the settings and see  
>>> what
>>> the least file size you can get away with. Also try doing it with
>>> slices in PS.
>>> Mark
>>>
>>> On Dec 21, 2004, at 9:48 AM, Steve Kale wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>>  What is the best way to optimize an image for display on the web?   
>>>> I
>>>> have a very simple
>>>>  website using .Mac Homepage but need to optimize my images before
>>>> placing them in my
>>>>  iDisk folder.  What is the best way to do this? Save for Web from
>>>> Photoshop?
>>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, and other  
>> resources as
>> they are often being updated.
>>
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>
> Michael Poster
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> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 18
>    Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 10:20:53 -0500
>    From: Mark Savoia <mark@...>
> Subject: Re: Optimizing Images for the Web
>
> 72 ppi is all you need. Yes slices, check PS help file on how and why
> to use slices for web pages.
> Mark
>
> On Dec 21, 2004, at 10:02 AM, Steve Kale wrote:
>
>> Slices?
>>
>>  Also if you use Save for Web do you down-res the file before using
>> it?  If
>>  so what to? The original files are large 10x15in @480ppi.
>>
>>  Thanks
>>
>>  Steve
>>
>>
>>> From: Mark Savoia <mark@ctphoto.com>
>>> Reply-To: <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com>
>>> Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 09:56:32 -0500
>>> To: <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com>
>>> Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Optimizing Images for the Web
>>>
>>>
>>> That does a pretty good job. Play around with the settings and see
>> what
>>> the least file size you can get away with. Also try doing it with
>>> slices in PS.
>>> Mark
>>>
>>> On Dec 21, 2004, at 9:48 AM, Steve Kale wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>>  What is the best way to optimize an image for display on the
>> web?  I
>>>> have a very simple
>>>>  website using .Mac Homepage but need to optimize my images before
>>>> placing them in my
>>>>  iDisk folder.  What is the best way to do this? Save for Web from
>>>> Photoshop?
>>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, and other
>> resources as they are often being updated.
>>
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
>>
>>  If you wish to receive no emails or just a da
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