During my wet print years I trimmed and dry-mounted on 4-ply matt board, signed just under the bottom of the print, and made the window matt bigger than the print so the signature could show. This is usually called a floating matt or floating mount, or something like that. It looks real nice but requires a lot of precision and is tedious and very time consuming. My mentor at the time said this method is preferred by galleries and collectors because it shows the entire print, assures that the image hasn't been cropped by the matt, and no "sins" can be covered up (such as torn edges, etc). It also allows precisely measuring the print dimensions. I know that dry-mounting has since fallen out of favor, so I don't know what emulsion print folks are doing these days. For my taste, seeing wavy prints under a matt looks terrible. Now with carbon ink prints, the paper stays flat and dry mounting isn't necessary. I leave a sizeable paper border around the image, sign just under the bottom edge of the image as before, and still make the window matt larger. This gives a nearly identical appearance as before - very nice looking - with all of the above criteria being met. I attach the print to the back of the matt with linen tape, which not only prevents it from shifting position, but eliminates the need for the 2nd piece of mattboard. The matt/print is then top-hinged with linen tape to acid free foam core backing. Because it's not dry-mounted, and the border with signature could be trimmed off, I'm also signing on the back of the print in the image area. The signing is done very lightly with a #2 pencil. Bottom line - matting is now quicker, easier, less expensive. Hooray! Anybody interested in a Bogen model 510 dry mount press? :) Regards, Clayton Info on black and white digital printing at http://www.cjcom.net/digiprnarts.htm
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Signing and Matting
2005-02-25 by Clayton Jones
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