Digital BW, The Print

On 5/20/05 2:58 AM, "Ernst Dinkla" <E.Dinkla@...> typed:

> Not an answer but more a question.
> 
> I used Rodinal (and Acufine and Promicrol) decades ago but there has
> been a long period without any B&W activities. Someone dropped a Jobo
> Autolab 1000 here that I repaired and I have done some MF B&W developing
> again. Ilford developer suited for the higher agitation of that machine.
> I would like to return to Rodinal though as I like the idea of one batch
> development and not having the fluids in large quantities around. Not
> likely that developing films becomes a weekly habit so to speak. I keep
> the machine as it is a compact thing with everything included. Rodinal
> isn't very suited to the higher agitation but there are some recipes
> with Rodinal + Vitamin C + Soda added that makes it a possibility again
> I think. Any experience with that combination ?  If it is an unwise idea
> please tell me.
> 
> Ernst
> 
> 
I think with the continuous Jobo agitation in and out of solution like it
does you¹re going to get a slightly higher film base fog than you would if
the film were in solution the whole time but this would not show up in the
print at all. Or scan.
And also in the darkroom would be no problem to print traditionally.
Negatives looking like this is getting to be the fashion now anyway.
And to add vitamin C to it would be a pile of worms.
I just briefly Googled it by the way and found only negative comments on
this combination.
It ain't broke, Don¹t fix it is my call.

I¹m against adding sulfite to is as well which is what you may be thinking
of as it would give you a slightly cleaner looking neg. but your grain
pattern is not going to have that amazing Rodinal sharp regularity.
I look upon messing with Rodinal with Dis stain.   :)

Try different dilutions.
By the way the guy yesterday talking about using it 1:25 I strongly advise
trying it at at least 1:50.
Rodinal looks just like D76 1:1 bland vanilla at 1:25. Looses it¹s
Rodinal-ness And is expensive I think.
You can easily use it 1:75 or 1:100. There¹s a ³glow² you get a 1:100.
The added time developing will be will worth it IMO.




Mark Rabiner
Photography
Portland Oregon
http://rabinergroup.com/





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