Digital BW, The Print

At the risk of repeating......The sensor is only going
to have 6 or seven stops of range. If you are shooting
a high contrast scene bracketing is only going to help
if you merge the images in photoshop and "clean things
up."  The best solution is to use ND grads to
"compress the scene to a number of stops your sensor
can handle. ND's are typically sold in 1,2 or 3 stop
versions. The best solution, when possible, is to get
it right in the camera and not depend on
post-processing to do major tweaks.

woody


--- Scott McLoughlin <scott@...> wrote:

> If I understand what your saying, then for quick
> shooting, would it be
> advantageous to auto bracket shots when shooting
> digital then?
> DSLR's are rather automated beasts. I don't do this
> currently, but
> maybe I should. Thoughts?
> 
> Scott
> 
> Truman Prevatt wrote:
> 
> > The difference between film and digital is
> (excause the abuse of the
> > term) how the grain shows up. In film the grain
> tends to show up at
> > higher light leves - zones 6 up. In digital the
> "grain" which is really
> > noise shows up at the lower levels - zones 3 down.
> The difference comes
> > from different physics producing the effects of
> grain. In the digital it
> > is the preamp noise that would be there - even
> assuming the sensor was
> > noise free. The signal levels are simply closer to
> the noise floor and
> > as such the values are impacted more my the noise
> than the high level
> > signals resulting from bright objects. In other
> words in the shadows the
> > signal to noise ratio is low while in the midleves
> up it is high.
> >
> > As long as you have a pre amp and ADC in the
> circuit there is no way to
> > eliminate this fully. As Paul noted placement of
> values is extremely
> > important because of this and I suspect for
> critical work no mater how
> > good they are the in camera meters are not
> sufficient and a good old
> > fashion spot meter would prove very helpful. When
> I am doing critical
> > work - be it with my 4x5 field camera or my
> digital - I use my spot meter.
> >
> > It is very interesting to think that Adams
> developed the Zone System in
> > order to get proper placement of values on film so
> as to control the
> > highlights (minimize blocking and grain). With a
> digitial camera it is
> > just as useful except in this case it is to
> minimimize the impact of
> > noise on the shadows.
> >
> > Truman
> >
> > Paul Roark wrote:
> >
> > >>... are you saying that if you had been using
> film, you could
> > >>have gotten the same or better results with a
> single exposure? and
> > >>less manipulation?
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >I'm not sure about the single exposure. I didn't
> have my spot meter 
> > with me
> > >for the digital shot -- a mistake I won't make in
> the future. Given the
> > >"slide-like" 7 stop dynamic range, I'm going back
> to carrying my 
> > Pentax spot
> > >meter.
> > >
> > >Medium format, Tech Pan film would probably have
> ended up making a better
> > >image with less manipulation, however. Also, I
> would have been able to
> > >print larger than 16x20 with MF TP.
> > >
> > >MF Tmax 100 would probably not have made as good
> an image, however. The
> > >grain in the foggy parts of the image would have
> shown. With the 
> > Canon 8 mp
> > >image, the foggy areas are totally smooth, and I
> really like that.
> > >
> > >Paul
> > >www.PaulRoark.com
> > >
> > >_
> > >
> >
> >
> > -- 
> >
> > "If you want to make an apple pie from scratch,
> you must first create
> > the universe."
> >
> > - Carl Sagan
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Please visit the Group Homepage to check the
> Files, and other 
> > resources as they are often being updated.
> >
> >
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