Clayton, That was one of the more interesting posts I've read in awhile, on a topic of particular interest to me at the moment. In my studio, I have a Epson 4000 as my main printer for B&W. I'm using the standard Epson UC inkset with Eboni Black instead of the Epson MK and using QTR or BO. I was thinking of adding the 2400 as sort of "test bed" to see if I wanted to upgrade the 4000 to the 4800. Think I'll wait for some more reviews of the K3 inkset. My only problem with BO is that I frequently get microbanding that I haven't figured out how to get rid of. Thanks for info. Tony Bonanno --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Clayton Jones" <cj@c...> wrote: > >It's a thorough review, but I don't think it addresses the > >UT7 inks. > > He never got to BW prints on matte paper with MK. It's maddening. I > have yet to see a review that thoroughly evaluates this from a fine > art perspective. Everyone is going GaGa over glossy prints. > > I recently downloaded & installed the 2400 driver on my laptop and > went to a store & hooked it up to the floor demo that had MK > installed, and printed a step wedge on PR in ABW neutral mode. It > made a beautifully smooth print with no dither banding, very > impressive looking by itself. > > Then I got home and did the same print/paper on my 2200 using Eboni BO > and compared them. Here are my observations: > > 1) The Eboni print has better Dmax, no contest. By itself the ABW > print looks pretty good, but next to the Eboni print it's weakness is > apparent. > > 2) The ABW ramp moves into black too soon, decreasing shadow > separation. Perhaps some good profiling can cure that. > > 3) By itself the ABW print looks neutral, but next to the Eboni print > a variety of subtle color casts become apparent. With a loupe the C > and M color dots can be clearly seen of course, just like any other > RIP with color inks. > > 4) Again, by itself it looks pretty good, but compared to the BO > print's luminance the ABW print has that typical dull milky opaque > look common to many full ink systems. > > > I have several thoughts from all this. First is the issue of how > toning is achieved. It seems that no matter how well done, and the > 2400 is as good as any I've seen, you can't entirely remove the subtle > coloration that exists when you mix color dots in with the blacks. So > it comes down to whether one is satisfied with that kind of result. I > know that many users are happy with RIP/color ink results, but having > used a no-color-ink approach for so long my eye detects the color and > doesn't like it. I find the same thing in my experiments with various > UT7 mixtures and 2K approaches (the 2nd K having color toners mixed > in). Besides coloration, there is the lower Dmax and the opaque > look. What these all add up to is that the 2400 would not be a > satisfactory solution for me. > > It seems that while BW printing technology was in its infancy all BW > folks were thrown into one camp - we all wanted something that worked > and lasted. But now that BW technology is getting better, the users > are being segregated into groups more akin to the "dark ages". Please > don't nitpick me on the following statement, I'm speaking in > generalities just to make a point - There were on the one hand folks > such as beginners, students, hobbyists, non-fine-art professionals, > whatever, who were satisfied with RC prints and who didn't obsess over > the finest nuances of things. On the other hand were the fine art > zonie types who only used fiber paper and all the rest. > > Seems like the 2400 will be an ideal printer for people in the first > group. It turns out really good looking prints if you don't examine > them with too high a standard. But will it satisfy people in the 2nd > group? Not me. Even the glossy prints. I know lot's of people have > said "WOW!" upon seeing them. But I have examined several prints and > find them pretty good, but ultimately unconvincing compared to a good > RC silver print, mostly because of the subtle coloration. It really > isn't neutral black, it's warm black with C and M added in an attempt > to fool the eye. Color is color. They simply aren't the same. > > The best non-BO prints I've seen, in terms of Dmax and luminance, were > done with a 2K approach using QTR with Eboni and some sort of LK. It > preserves enough luminance to avoid the milky opaque look and is much > smoother than BO. The only drawback is the coloration in the LK. My > "holy grail" is still to find a way to dilute the K, so that both inks > respond the same to the paper the way Eboni BO does. That will avoid > the coloration look and side-step any longevity issues associated with > color inks. So I'll stick with the 2200 for now. > > Regards, > Clayton > > > Info on black and white digital printing at > http://www.cjcom.net/digiprnarts.htm
Message
Re: Ultratone vs. Epson K3 Inks
2005-07-30 by Tony Bonanno
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