A number of years ago I had an upscale faux finishing business catering to the rich and famous of Beverly Hills and sealing very delicately colored faux marble etc. was required. I primarily used archival quality fine art materials for the finishes, but there were no really durable clear finishes available. We tried all the lacquer based and water based materials and they all had the potential of yellowing. It seemed that the same material applied on different days could yellow differently. Deft in the spray cans seemed the very most reliable, where as Deft in a gallon can would generally yellow... different stuff apparently. The waterbased stuff seemed the most variable. All I want to say is that it all has the potential to yellow in a very short period of time. Professional Varithane (mainly available where they rent floor sanders etc. and not at most general hardware stores) was also fairly servicable, but was still somewhat yellow. For a while is did some photo based works that I sealed in huge quantities of Varithane, which I'd set on fire to dry and amber, that came out pretty cool :) mark --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "kipduff" <kip.duff@g...> wrote: > --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "kipduff" > <kip.duff@g...> wrote: > > Dear Group, Myron, Al, Ken: > Al: you may be on to something with the waterbase. I used a fine nap > roller for some Varithane semigloss water base varnish. I think the > inkjet photo image surface may be more similar to oil base than water > base varnish "vehicles". Because of this, the use of water base may > facilitate the process because it's as though the surface has already > been primed and you don't need so many coats (in other words, it may > already be somewhat "watertight"). The Varithane is weird- it left > too much texture and shows a little bit "white opaque" in some bumps. > The good part is that it stood on the surface rather than soak in and > need multiple coats (also very fast drying). I am also trying Deft > Clear Wood Finish (laquer in spray cans from most hardware stores) in > semi and gloss. This is definitealy petrol base. It takes many coats > and may be soaking into and thru the inkjet image- a small separtaion > bubble has formed possibly as a result of this (this is also my first > use of Bienfang Colormount). After 3 coats, I'm still seing some > paper texture. The Varithane waterbase would be good except it leaves > excessive texture and some opacity (brushing is worse). A water base > spray might be the trick.
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Re: dry mounting techniques
2005-09-17 by Mark Hahn
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