Hello Andy, Lots of things to cover here... >I recall when many people were saying the 2200 marked the >arrival of true B&W right out of the box. Those must have been early statements based on it being the first oem pigment ink set with MK/PK and LK. But as we all know, it's not a good out-of-the-box BW solution. As for the other things: - K3 has better longevity - K3 has LLK - K3 has little if any metamerism - K3 printers have the built in ABW driver which makes excellent out-of-the-box BW without a 3rd party RIP, and can be used with a RIP if different results are desired. - On glossy papers K3 has greatly reduced gloss diff and bronzing - On matte papers there is not as big a difference in appearance of final prints (compared to UC with RIP), but still better longevity. - If using MIS inks + RIP instead of K3 then the above advantages compared to 2200/MIS/RIP are reduced. However, the MIS K4 inks can be used with the ABW driver, so there is still some advantage there if you want to use it that way. - K3 inks work beautifully with the new Silver Rag type papers (and MIS K4 too, I think), but I don't think the UC or UT7 inks do well there. So if you like those new papers... - Finally, from my own experience after several years with an 870 and a 2200 with a variety of inks and techniques, using a 2400 with K3 and ABW is a dream machine and has totally changed my printing life. It's a huge improvement as it comes, and can only get better if you are willing to tinker with additional inks/RIPs/curves, etc. I can't recommend a 2400 highly enough, but as Walt said, check out the new 3800 before deciding. Article #9 at the link below outlines a simple and effective K3/ABW workflow. I hope this sums it up well. Someone please jump in here if I missed something.
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Re: 2200 to 2400
2006-09-25 by Clayton Jones
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