Digital BW, The Print

In addition to Howard's suggestions, I've been thinking of a light carbon
ink with a bit of red in it to make a warm that is closer to hue 45 - less
yellow than the pure carbon.  This would really be just for those who like
warm prints.  By itself, 4% red mixed with the light carbon of the R2 or 3D
sets makes a good warm.  However, for better quality, we'd probably be
better off with the carbon jets also working (in general, the more jets
being active, the better).  So, it may be that a stronger red mix would be
better.  I have not had time to experiment with they yet, however.

 

In a CFS, you'll also have the large format issues with respect to non-use
of the system being a problem.  For this reason, I'll probably port the 4K+
approach to the 220.  In that type of non-blended approach, I suspect the 3K
+ light m, c and red might be interesting.  As with the 50% LC, I might mix
a more dilute R800 Red for that.  This, of course, would take a rip to run.

 

The bottom line I'm looking at is that a bit of red mixed with carbon makes
a very nice warm tone.  It eliminates the yellow from the current sepia.
The mix can't reach as deep a sepia, but it should be more lightfast and
have less metamerism.

 

Paul

www.PaulRoark.com <http://www.paulroark.com/>  

 

 

 

 

  _____  

From: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of
david627890
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2007 6:35 AM
To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Digital BW] R220 ink suggestions

 

I have been using my R220 with the MIS UT-R2 inkset with both Neutral 
and Warm cartridges now for some time but would like to convert to a 
CFS and bulk inks. As I like to be able to vary the tone of my images 
on an image by image basis (or even occasionally do split tones) I have 
considered using the warm inks in C/LC and the neutral inks in M/LM (or 
vice versa), however what should I put in the yellow spot? Is this 
approach sensible or should I just go for the UT-3D? I would drive 
either using QTR (or Bowhaus if it can drive the R220 - I haven't tried 
yet).

Many thanks in advance for your suggestions.

David Whistance

 



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