To the list -- I'm planning to purchase either the Minolta Scan Multi Pro or the Polaroid 120 to scan many years of 2¼×2¼ Tri-X negatives (developed in D-76). I hope someone with experience can answer several questions: 1. Is either the Polaroid or the Minolta preferable for producing a sharp image without exaggerating the grain at 2000/3200/4000/4800 ppi? 2. Is the grain in a monochrome scan better or worse than that of an RGB scan reduced to monochrome in Photoshop using the CHANNEL MIXER? 3. I don't like the softened, glowy look of prints from even slightly-diffused negatives like those I've seen produced by grain reduction software such as the NEAT demo <http://absoft.hotbox.ru/> or the QUANTUM MECHANIC PRO demo <http://www.camerabits.com/>. Can anyone recommend an anti-grain solution superior to either of these? 4. (For James) -- concerning your experience (quoted below) -- did you have the Minolta's Digital-ICE³ turned on or off? I understand that ICE³ isn't intended for use with black-and-white negatives, but what effect do you see when it is off compared to turning it on in a B&W scan? Thanks for whatever information anyone can provide. -- Victor Landweber At 03:01 AM 1/27/2002 +0000, James wrote: >Frank, > >I am using the new Minolta Dimage Scan Multi Pro. I primarily scan >Tri-X 6by7 negative and some 35mm. Having just upgraded from a >2400ppi scanner, I was seeing some grain I had not seen before. > >Research lead me to a phenomenon know as grain aliasing. As you >probably know, although I have not noticed it mentioned in this >thread thus far, Grain aliasing isn't real grain but an interference >pattern between film grain (dye clusters in color film) and the CCD >pixel size. > >Check out the SilverFast grain reduction tutorial at >http://www.computer-darkroom.com/sf5-negafix/grain_reduction.htm and >the rather technical but illuminating explanation at >http://www.photoscientia.co.uk/Grain.htm. > >I finally took to undertaking a detailed empirical analysis of my >own, using a 200x microscope and comparing the negative, to the >pixels in Photoshop, to the Piezography print (again under the >microscope), not because I am technician rather than an artist, but >because I wanted to be aware if the technologies within my workflow >were interjecting something into my final product. > >The answer, and this is my own subjective analysis using some pretty >in depth research and hard facts, that I am actually awed by how well >this scanner interprets the grain to render a digital facsimile. > >My only adjustment in my process was to switch from D76 to Microdol >and to lighten up on my agitation a little. I liken this to when >(excuse the metaphor if it does not make sense) I traded in my BMW >for a Ducati... all the nuances of my riding style that did not even >show up on the older, slightly sloppier motorcycle, appeared as >explicit instructions to my new motorcycle. We are in the 4000- >5000ppi threshold where the CCD pixel size is in the same space as >the grain (dye cloud), and as such, this phenomenon may raise it's >ugly head and create some pretty strange results. > >There are all sorts of solutions proposed: > >1) slightly tweak the manual focus so that it does not react in such >an extreme manner to each grain. This also will impact the overall >sharpness of the image, as landscape photographer, this did not work >for me at all. > >2) GEM seems to introduce other artifacts, plus it only works on >color scans, so my 255mb 16bit grayscale scan will triple in size. >This takes a lot of processing cycles as well. Not the solution for >me. > >3) Get past the zone where the sampling and the grain are at >the 'same frequency'. This would mean spending more than the $3,500 >I just spent on my scanner or sending it out for drum scanning. I >shoot, develop and print in the same day.... so forget this. > >4) Use other software plug-ins or post processing tools to manage >grain. This seemed to be a cure for the symptom and did not really >do what I want, which is to faithfully recreate my image throughout >the entire workflow all the way to the paper. > >5) Shift your grain size and scanning PPI so that they are farther >apart. I have done this some. I am scanning at 3200PPI and like I >mentioned, my development is tuned for finer grain, without forgoing >acutance (sharpness). > >The last option, and there are many more I am sure, seemed to work >best for my and what my criteria is. > >A simple search in yahoo, looksmart, alta vista et al on 'grain >aliasing' will return a lot of information. > >Hope I am offering useful information and not being redundant nor >pedantic. > >Regards, > >James >www.blueskytech.info
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Re: [Digital BW] Re: Minolta Pro Vs Nikon 8000: Grain vs Softness
2002-01-27 by Victor Landweber
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