Digital BW, The Print

Hi Joost,

> ... the 3MK approach (and therefore also the proposed 
>2MK+2PK approach) require the finer drops. So I did not 
>mean to propose this approach for a 2100/2200 but for an 
>R1800 instead. The idea would be to start from your 
>3MK approach on a R1800 but add the full flexibility of 
>gloss printing and toning, while still keeping 
>the advantages of the 3MK approach. 

>What would be your insight in this?

In general, I think the 1800 is about the best 13" platform we have now.  I
think it can support a number of approaches, including what you're
proposing.  You'll probably need 3 jets firing to hide any banding.  Whether
2 black ones and then the colors or an LK would be enough is something I
have not tested.  I agree with Carl that light inks are not really needed
for the 1800, on the other hand the full 260 RC inkset -- which uses light
inks but not as light as on the older printers -- gives amazing smoothness.
I must add, however, that the main if not only reason for the lightest 260
ink is because the Epson driver needs it.

With respect to glossy printing, the MIS UT-RC-PKN that I mixed for the 260
(also a 1.5 pl printer) makes one of the best glossy prints I've seen, even
just in BO mode on the 260.  I'm sure the 3-RC-PKN approach Carl is using on
the 1800 is even better.  Note that there is also a 260 RC-PKC black ink
that is 50% cooler than the PKN.  These cool inks can also be used on matte
paper to cool them down more if the straight Eboni is too warm.  While they
are pre-mixed ratios of PK, Cyan and Blue, it makes toning curves much
easier when inks are blended as opposed to separate.  It would be easy to
set up Eboni, PK, and PKN or PKC curves and then use sliders in QTR to get
whatever degree of coolness one wants.  On the other hand, for a sepia,
you'd need to include some warm color inks in the mix.

Note also that the RC-PKN and PKC use a cyan to blue ratio that is aimed at
the midtones.  That is, with the original PKN that I mixed for older
printers, I was just trying to get the best dmax I could with the original
PKN.  It contained way too much cyan for an appropriate midtone hue.
Actually, the PKN was not even the best dmax of the test inks I mixed.  The
dmax continued to increase as the color inks crossed over the 50% mark.  As
dye ink makers and watercolorists know well, the best looking black is not
pure carbon, but these others just will not last.  But the point here is, be
sure to use the 260 "UT-RC" versions of PKN listed at
http://www.inksupply.com/r260_blackandwhite.cfm  MIS calls the "cool" RC
inks "RCC" and the "neutral" inks "RCN", adding PK to signify the position.
Note that there are separate bulk boxes for Warm (pure carbon), Cool, and
Neutral inks -- cart and bulk.  These PK versions are appropriate for most
of the new Epson printers, but they are a lower load PK ink than is best for
the 2200 and older printers.

At any rate, with 8 slots, a 1.5 pl drop size, and QTR support, the 1800 can
do lots of different things.  I wish there was a large format version --
with easily re-fillable carts, of course.  

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com