Paul, Thanks, this sounds like VERY cost-effective approach. As I'm starting to reach the end of my current UT3D ink stock for my 2100, I'm open for another approach . Although still happy with the print quality and ease of profiling of UT3D (using QTR). How would you position the Carbon-6 versus the K4+ for the 2100? Or for a 7600/9600 that (of course!) are for long on my wish list? I can can also see a hybrid: 3-5 carbon densities + some LM and (L)LC to get the ultimate neutral. I've not so much interest in toning any more (my reason to opt for Ut#d at the time), but more in print smoothnes and in achieving truly neutral prints. Thanks, Joost --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "pr_roark" <pr_roark@...> wrote: > > > I've updated my PDF that deals with ink mixing and now have it focused > on a specific proposed open-source 100% carbon (Eboni) inkset, which I > call "Carbon-6." The name is intended, in part, to distinguish it from > Eboni-6, which will use the MIS base and different mixing ratios, but > they clearly are closely related. Eboni-6, will have a commercial base > and be pre-mixed, and this Carbon-6 will have to be mixed from scratch > by users. > > See http://www.paulroark.com/BW-Info/Ink-Mixing.pdf > <http://www.paulroark.com/BW-Info/Ink-Mixing.pdf> > > As I've noted over the last couple of years, I've used and explored an > easy-to-mix ink base that is just water and glycerol. Actually most > water-based inkjet inksets are mostly water plus a significant > percentage glycerol. > > The primary constituent in my experiments that improved the smoothness > of the bare-bones glycerol + water combination was a surfactant or > wetting agent. While I've been experimenting with some Dow > surfactants, I've decided to step back and do long term testing of a > simple mix using the more readily available Kodak Photo Flo. It is not > the strongest of this class of chemicals, but it's well known and good > enough for printers with droplet sized greater than 1.5 picoliters. > This includes the vast majority of Epson printers. > > Note that adding stronger surfactants may make this inkset slightly > smoother under a loupe, but they also make it print warmer, which is not > a positive characteristic when one is fighting carbon's tendency to have > an elevated Lab B in these inksets. So, the strength of the wetting > agent or surfactant is a double edged sword. Photo Flo appears to be a > very nice and simple compromise. > > I do still expect MIS to produce Eboni-6, and that remains in my 7500, > just as the 3-MK workflow will remain in my 1800. However, I think a > "home brew" base and carbon inkset that will run on most Epson printers > and is extremely economical might have significant appeal to many. It, > hopefully, will take the low cost and high stability of the 1800 3- MK > workflow to most of the remainder of the Epson printer base. Because it > can use the Epson driver for printing, it lends itself to very easy > workflows. The prints are among the smoothest and best I've ever > produced. > > This is still an experimental inkset. I have not had it in a printer > for long periods of time. I have tested a bare bones water + glycerol + > Eboni ink in a 220 for a number of months, including periods of no use > that extended for several weeks, and it did not clog or otherwise cause > any problems. But the addition of the Photo Flo is new. > > Kodak Photo-Flo 200 is mostly water with 25 - 30% propylene glycol and 5 > - 10% wetting agent (p-tert-octylphenoxy polyethoxyethyl alcohol). The > propylene glycol is well know and often used in inskets. It and > glycerol are often seen as substitutes. I have used it with good > success. But the wetting agent is a new component that I have not > tested long term in this context. I do, of course, have a fairly high > confidence level in it or I would not publish this. > > Paul > > www.PaulRoark.com <http://www.PaulRoark.com> > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >
Message
Re: "Carbon-6" Ink Mixing
2008-03-20 by Joost Horsten
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