Digital BW, The Print

Hi Bob,


> I've started a project designing a UT2-like inkset for the 
> R1800/R1900.  The UT2 inkset you designed for the 1280 was
> fun to use and I miss its flexibility.  

The UT14 is what I see as the UT2 replacement.  It comes with Glop 
instead of sepia, but that is easy to change.  

> For now, I'm switching color and BW inks back and forth in the same 
> printer.  Each inkset stays in the printer for at least a month or 
> more and I may go to a dedicated printer in the future as budget 
> allows.  I use MIS or IS for all inks, there are no OEM used inks 
in 
> the printer.  I'm using QTR and have cut-and-pasted from the 3MK 
> profiles you generated as the starting point.  I have also found a 
> source of totally spongeless carts, so EB-6 inks are an option.
> 
> My configuration at this time (subject to change) is 3-MK, 
> 2-PK, 

I'd recommend MIS K4-PK.  It's a little lighter load than the older 
PK and it works a bit better in the 1800.

> GO, 
> R1800 blue (which is really purple), and a sepia slot.  I started 
> with the R1800 red as the sepia ink as you suggested, but it wasn't 
> what I was looking for.  

> After making color samples of all the inks I 
> have, the UT2 sepia (yellow position) was the closest ink to what I 
> want.  This is based on comparing the color samples to some old 
> (late 1800's and early 1900's) family photos. 

I too surveyed old photos to see how to mix the sepia.  There is a 
great variety of such tones, but I thought the UT2/7 sepia made a 
nice compromise.

> However wanting the most fad 
> resistant inks, I thought there may be a better way to make that 
> ink. 

Yes, that's one reason it's not in UT14.

> I was thinking of mixing some MK, R1800 yellow and maybe some 
> R1800 magenta.  Would these be good choices from a permanence 
> viewpoint?

It's cheaper to buy 7600 carts of Y and M.  Judging by Wilhelm, HP 
and Canon might even be better sources of pigments, but I have never 
done any mixing with the colors from either.  (Both HP and Canon 
blacks seem to be OK in C6 base for at least the short periods I've 
worked with them.)

>  Is there a ratio you'd recommend as a starting point to 
> match the UT2 sepia?

I mixed a red from Y and M at 1:1.  Epson pigments are slightly 
different than MIS, so the ratios may need some adjustment.  Then my 
original formula was to mix this red with UT7-C (MIS's darkest 
midtone carbon gray).  I used about 16% red to 84% UT7-C.

>  Also, would MIS UC-base be good for dilution?  
  
No, use MIS Glop if you want to have glossy printing with the minimum 
of bronzing. 

> 
> I am going to look into a LK position as well.  
> How does one part MK to four parts base sound?

Do you want to make a matte only inkset?  I assumed from above that 
you wanted glossy compatibility.  If so, don't use MK as a starting 
point.  Use PK, LK, or some of the MIS grays, such as UT7-C.

If you do dilute MK to make an LK, it depends on the load of the MK.  
Then it also depends on where you measure the density -- the curves 
are not linear or congruous.  The C6 LK is about 16.7% Eboni, and is 
a bit light.  18% Eboni is closer.

Good luck with the project.

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com