Digital BW, The Print

That would be the linearization ramp I would guess  which would contain shades from white to black.

 An alternate method is to print parts of the image as needed on a piece of velum or clear acetate.. it stays wet as it doesn't get absorbed in the surface.. that process is a dead nuts match for the patch area and uses the actual inks. A fine brush works great for the transfer

As a thought regarding the flaking and using non pigment ink materials. When the flakes occur it could be one of two things.. an actual paper flake or a flake in the receptor layer. I would think that one has to access the damage.. If it's a noteworthy flake then I would think using the actual printer inks is the way to go. If were talking a speck or something similar then even a fine point sharpie might suffice. These are permanent but the concept of fading over time when were talking a speck might have a negligible impact on the artwork.. Also a thought for consideration is that if the flake has any magnitude to it then the receptor layer is probably gone in that area. That in itself may have some consequences when considering the fading or shifting of density over time relative to the area next to it that wasn't patched.... probably not but I don't think we know.. 
Their are also die based touch up markers that also have a blender marker which is just another marker but with a clear solvent in it that allows for added working of the spot. . I have a set but don't use them as I prefer my previous stated methods.

Personally, I think flaking issues are typically manufacturing issues..or could be the result of over inking..In either case that's not a material that I would choose to run for my customers due to risk. 

jimbo
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Paul 
  To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 8:01 AM
  Subject: [Digital BW] Re: Bad News About Alise Natural


    
  > An old trick that has worked well for me is to print a B&W ramp on
  > glossy paper to which the ink will mainly sit on the surface rather than
  > be absorbed. Once it has dried one can take a small pointed brush dipped
  > in a bit of water or saliva if you prefer and remove a bit of ink from
  > the ramp that matched the area you need to spot and then spot the print
  > with it much as you would use a dilution of Spotone. Since it is the
  > same ink used for the print the match will be good and the permanence
  > identical. I've used this method since the mid nineties, cheap and
  > effective.
  > 
  > Roger

  Sounds good, Roger... but can you tell me what you mean by "ramp"? Thank you!

  Paul



  


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