Digital BW, The Print

"Foon Hoe" <feedthefoon@...> wrote:
>
>... The R280 has been replaced by the Artisan 50/RX 580, ...
>  I decided to give it a try, since the specs are exactly the same as the R280 and not wanting to buy used printers.
> 
>    ... with the Claria inkset ... I used the grayscale feature on the Epson driver, and prints have a bluish/greenish cast to them, but the prints were fairly smooth (or smudgy?).  Then I tried using QTR with serveral BO curves (claria BO curve, ones that made by Paul Roark that neutralizes the tone), I can get much more neutral prints with it.  However, the prints are rougher comparing to Epson driver prints (ie. the dots/grain are much more visible).  With QTR, printing at 1440 super (don't know what it means) just looks bad, unmistakably from an inkjet; printing at 2880 dpi, it's still a little rough, but not a bad look.  Besides the more neutral tone, I like the QTR prints because the tone transitions appear to be smoother (even though the "grain structure" is rougher).


The Epson driver in its grayscale mode does still use the light inks.  QTR is using just the black ink, and with a few profiles I made also a little of the LM.  But basically, you're comparing a "BO" print with one that uses dilute inks -- but color ones.


> So here's my long list of questions:
> 1)Is the grayscale on Epson driver equivalent to BO?

No.

 
> 2)I have not tried any glossy paper yet.  But from what I gather here, the claria inks do much better on glossy paper than matte. Do you think that switching paper would produce better contrast?  I am particularly interested in Red River SatinPro.

The glossy dmax will be better, but you'll have the same trouble with unwanted color with the Epson "grayscale" mode and slight roughness with the QTR black only approach.

I might add that with the 1400 I use QTR to print HP PK black only and it makes great prints.  I'm not sure why this other supposedly 1.5 pl printer is not doing as well.

 
> 3)Is it normal that printing with QTR is slower than Epson?

I think that might be typical, but it may depend on the printer and settings.


> 4)I plan to try the UT-RC inks.  But investing in all six cartridge will be a significant cost ($120) that I do not want to commit to yet.  Is it possible for me to buy only the PK position and do BO printing?

As Ken mentioned above, I think the chips will not be compatible.  You'll probably need to have chips from the same source in all positions.  With a set of third party carts you could temporarily put a clear fluid, like the C6 base at http://www.paulroark.com/BW-Info/Ink-Mixing.pdf, in the other positions and print.  

> or can I dilute the PK ink like the EB-6 for smoother prints?

The result will be very  warm and not glossy compatible.  

However, you can dilute HP PK to make a neutral, glossy compatible ink.  The difference is that the HP PK has the glossy coating on the particle.  So, it still works fine in a base that has no coating material.  You can do a little math and see that a dilute HP PK inkset may take not only the quality but also the value prize.

 
> 5)From my understanding, the Eboni ink is the same in the warm/neutral/cool ink set,

Yes.  Eboni is Eboni in all MIS inksets.

>  Does this apply to the PK ink?

No, there are different degrees of cooling -- i.e., how much color is added to the carbon.

 
> 6)Would using the UT-RC set produce smoother prints comparing to BO printing?

Yes.

>... I am not afraid of diluting inks, especially if it means I can make a smoother print while minimizing cost.
  
The best for the least works for me also.

Note that the HP PK is a bit cooler in the shadows of some papers that I like.  So, while I just use it straight in my 1400 because I want the other spots for Eboni and its dilutions, if you wanted a more flexible glossy compatible inkset you could use an MIS LK (or EZ warm)  as a warm carbon toner.

Good luck with the system.

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com