Digital BW, The Print

I mentioned in this thread that I once again have an Epson 4000 set up with the Epson-Noritsu dyes.  

See http://www.paulroark.com/BW-Info/4000-Noritsu-5K-Plus.pdf for my write-up of the current setup.

I had previously installed a blended, Epson driver compatible dye inkset in the 4000. However, this time I'm not using any blended inks.  LM and Y are what the green/cyan Noritsu (Claria) black needs for full 3D profiling.  So, the current approach has 5 shades of gray/black plus LM and Y. By avoiding blending, I get more control and capability as well as avoid the slight risk of catalytic dye interactions (of which I have some very weak evidence, but none that dilute black solutions oxidize significantly quicker).

There was an intervening MIS glossy carbon plus LM and LC between these dye ink variations.  The MIS glossy inkset worked fine, but the dyes give me a more interesting (better looking and better selling) alternative to the matte carbon pigments, which will remain my top serious collector medium.  I see these as essentially different media.  

I expect I'll be using mostly the Red River Polar Pearl Metallic paper with the dyes.
 
<http://www.redrivercatalog.com/browse/66lb-polar-pearl-metallic-inkjet-photo-paper.html>

They also have a thicker one, but the roll may be my main paper.  My 10,000 pixel wide stitched panoramas are a main target.  They'll fit nicely on the 35 inch long dry (heat) mount foam core I use.  Today I'm printing a 95 MP image at 16x20.  The vast amount of information combined with the dye on metallic substrate makes some sweet eye candy.

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com

The color saturation and clarity of dyes on metallic are breathtaking, but 
what about the durability factor?

-----Original Message----- 
From: Paul
Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2013 1:30 PM
To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Digital BW] Wide Format Noritsu dye (was re: Changing Ink Type)

I mentioned in this thread that I once again have an Epson 4000 set up with 
the Epson-Noritsu dyes.

See http://www.paulroark.com/BW-Info/4000-Noritsu-5K-Plus.pdf for my 
write-up of the current setup.

I had previously installed a blended, Epson driver compatible dye inkset in 
the 4000. However, this time I'm not using any blended inks.  LM and Y are 
what the green/cyan Noritsu (Claria) black needs for full 3D profiling.  So, 
the current approach has 5 shades of gray/black plus LM and Y. By avoiding 
blending, I get more control and capability as well as avoid the slight risk 
of catalytic dye interactions (of which I have some very weak evidence, but 
none that dilute black solutions oxidize significantly quicker).

There was an intervening MIS glossy carbon plus LM and LC between these dye 
ink variations.  The MIS glossy inkset worked fine, but the dyes give me a 
more interesting (better looking and better selling) alternative to the 
matte carbon pigments, which will remain my top serious collector medium.  I 
see these as essentially different media.

I expect I'll be using mostly the Red River Polar Pearl Metallic paper with 
the dyes.

<http://www.redrivercatalog.com/browse/66lb-polar-pearl-metallic-inkjet-photo-paper.html>

They also have a thicker one, but the roll may be my main paper.  My 10,000 
pixel wide stitched panoramas are a main target.  They'll fit nicely on the 
35 inch long dry (heat) mount foam core I use.  Today I'm printing a 95 MP 
image at 16x20.  The vast amount of information combined with the dye on 
metallic substrate makes some sweet eye candy.

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com








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John Castronovo <jc@...> wrote:


> The color saturation and clarity of dyes on metallic are breathtaking, but
>
> what about the durability factor?
>

There is always some uncertainty there.  Dyes are clearly not in the same
league with carbon pigments -- and that is a plus from my perspective.  I'm
looking for media that are clearly different.  I need to split markets --
collectors v. the typical buyer in Gallery Los Olivos, my local gallery
where I have my permanent display.  The collectors don't like my low GLO
prices, but the tourists are dazzled by the dyes on metallic paper and very
price sensitive.  I want to sell to both markets, and I hope that the
carbon v. dye print aids in this effort.

That said, the Claria/Noritsu dyes are rather amazing.  They are better
that the average third party color pigments.  Wilhelm rates color Claria
prints at 98 years under glass.  Protecting dyes with a spray seems to have
a major effect on their longevity.  If you go to
http://www.aardenburg-imaging.com/ and log into the fade test database,
click on the Conservation Display Rating column to put it in order.  In
about the middle of the pack you'll find black only Epson 1400 Claria, with
a spray coating.  Above and below it are your typical Epson and Canon k3
color pigments.  These color pigment prints are sold all the time as
"giclee" (what a BS name) prints.  Additionally, I've had un-sprayed
dye-based cards on a mantle for a year, even getting some direct sun, and I
observe no change.  So, I think the dyes are good enough for many uses, and
yet not good enough for high end collecting.

I would not want to sell a medium that I thought would embarrass me, and I
feel comfortable selling the sprayed B&W prints at very modest prices to
walk-in customers who are not collectors and, frankly, don't care about
these issues.

I'm not at all encouraging this approach for most on this list, but these
prints and this technology have a definite place in the market.

Anyone with a 1400/1430 and QTR can get a preview of what the medium looks
like.  See http://www.paulroark.com/BW-Info/1400-Claria-BW.pdf .   For a
better, dedicated B&W 1400 approach (which I've switched back and forth
with color) see
http://www.paulroark.com/BW-Info/1400-Claria-Noritsu-2K2LK.pdf .

Going to wide format (e.g.,
http://www.paulroark.com/BW-Info/4000-Noritsu-5K-Plus.pdf) is not something
I recommend for most, but seeing if the market I'm in responds to the
larger size prints, still modestly priced (no matte board and no glass,
simple wood frame) is something I have to explore.

Paul
www.PaulRoark.com


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