Yahoo Groups archive
Thread
2002-11-16 by Paul Roark
Matthew, You wrote: >...if I'm >reading your posts and the >archived files correctly, you're actually just >pushing the rod across the image -- using it to >apply, rather than pull off the excess? Yes. The coating is put above the image first, using a syringe. Then the rod is used to "push" (I actually pull the rod toward me) the coating material across the print surface. Paul http://www.PaulRoark.com
2002-11-17 by thronxx
Hi All, Tried Paul's coating technique - glass, poly, wire rod. Ended up with a lumpy mess but enjoyed every minute of it. :-) Saw what I did too much of and too little of. Does the dmax justice, that's for sure. I like it. Just have to be a bit less... agressive. Many thanks, Paul. Pardon me while I peel my hands... Cheers, Jeffrey
2002-11-18 by Robert Morrison
Mathew, This is a common technique in ink/pigment labs where we use the Mayer rod for testing small samples. I then adapted this for use with coatings for our prints. It works well up to about 24" wide. Beyond that I think it will be difficult to manage the rod without a specially built rod holder. The key with a rod coating is using the proper rod (wire) size for the viscosity of the coating that you are applying...this in turn needs to be balanced with the polymer solids in the coating. Robert
On 11/16/02 3:14 PM, "Paul Roark" <paul.roark@...> wrote: > Matthew, > > You wrote: > >> ...if I'm >> reading your posts and the >> archived files correctly, you're actually just >> pushing the rod across the image -- using it to >> apply, rather than pull off the excess? > > Yes. The coating is put above the image first, using a syringe. Then the > rod is used to "push" (I actually pull the rod toward me) the coating > material across the print surface. > > Paul > http://www.PaulRoark.com > > > > > Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and other > resources as they are often being updated. The page is at: > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint > > If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish to > unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting this same > page. > > Please follow these basic guidelines: > - Include your full name with your message. > - Include the address of your website, if you have one. > - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep > them short. > - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject header. > - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or > &amp;quot;flames.&amp;quot; > - Complete your Yahoo profile. > - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the various > resources on the homepage. > > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > >
2002-11-19 by Jerry Olson
Matthew, if you can't get an extremely deep black equal to silver prints with epson dye inks on photorag paper or epson papers, you are surely doing something wrong. You may have a setting somewhere that makes all the difference, Double check all of them ! Jerry Matthew Born wrote:
> > Very interesting. I, like many of us, it would seem, love the black density > from dyes but would very much like to find something that lasts a bit > longer. I also like the general look and feel of Photo Rag and Satine, but > even with my dyes and lots of tweaking they seem awfully light. There's a > lot of uneven surface area there for the light to bounce around in; varnish > would do the trick. If a 2200 ever shows up on our (U.S) shores again, I > might jump in and give the Mayer rod a whirl. Or I could varnish a dye print > and get some *really* interesting results...I'm assuming that, unlike the > commercial offset inks I'm used to, inkjet dyes would smear like butter, no? > Or I stand under Mark's window and wait for that 9600 to come sailing out. I > figure if the blacks are that light, it won't hurt too much when it lands on > me. > > Thanks again, > Matthew > > -------- > >>Mathew, > > >>This is a common technique in ink/pigment labs where we use the Mayer rod > for testing small samples. I then adapted this for use with coatings for > our prints. It works well up to about 24" wide. Beyond that I think it > will be difficult to manage the rod without a specially built rod holder. > > The key with a rod coating is using the proper rod (wire) size for the > viscosity of the coating that you are applying...this in turn needs to be > balanced with the polymer solids in the coating. > > Robert > > Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at: > > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint > > If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish to unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting this same page. > > Please follow these basic guidelines: > - Include your full name with your message. > - Include the address of your website, if you have one. > - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep them short. > - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject header. > - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or &amp;quot;flames.&amp;quot; > - Complete your Yahoo profile. > - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the various resources on the homepage. > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/