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Re: [Digital BW] Digest Number 1174

Re: [Digital BW] Digest Number 1174

2002-12-09 by gary

The site/ Way Kuul!
On Sunday, December 8, 2002, at 07:05 PM,  
DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com wrote:

> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls  
> and other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
>
> If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish  
> to unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting  
> this same page.
>
> Please follow these basic guidelines:
> - Include your full name with your message.
> - Include the address of your website, if you have one.
> - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to  
> keep them short.
> - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject  
> header.
> - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or  
> "flames."
> - Complete your Yahoo profile.
> - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the  
> various resources on the homepage.
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 
> -
>
> There are 25 messages in this issue.
>
> Topics in this digest:
>
>       1. RE: Re: Ah, the digital argument..
>            From: "Austin Franklin" <darkroom@...>
>       2. Re: Re: Ah, the digital argument..
>            From: Truman Prevatt <tprevatt@...>
>       3. RE: Mayer Rod Substitute...the saga and workflow
>            From: "Shire,Stanley" <sshire@...>
>       4. RE: Mayer Rod Substitute...the saga and workflow
>            From: "Shire,Stanley" <sshire@...>
>       5. check out - MIS inks and Mulberry Paper
>            From: "frankg_photo <frank@...>"  
> <frank@...>
>       6. Re: Mayer Rod Substitute...the saga and workflow
>            From: Phil Morse <pmorse@...>
>       7. RE: Re: Ah, the digital argument..
>            From: "Austin Franklin" <darkroom@...>
>       8. RE: Mayer Rod Substitute...the saga and workflow
>            From: "Shire,Stanley" <sshire@...>
>       9. 1160 vs. 1280 for quad/hex tone
>            From: "Bob_Michaels <Bob@...>"  
> <Bob@...>
>      10. UltraChrome Out-Gassing Concerns
>            From: "Miguel Angel Aleman <alemanma@...>"  
> <alemanma@...>
>      11. Re: Mayer Rod Substitute...the saga and workflow
>            From: Carl Schofield <scho@...>
>      12. test
>            From: "John Vitollo <johnnyv@...>"  
> <johnnyv@...>
>      13. Re: Re: Chemistry refresher course
>            From: "Bob Frost" <bobfrost@...>
>      14. Re: Ah, the digital argument . . .
>            From: "Stephen A. Tucker <stephentucker@...>"  
> <stephentucker@...>
>      15. Re: Ah, the digital argument..
>            From: "Clayton Jones <cj@...>" <cj@...>
>      16. Re: New Lepp Profiles for 2200
>            From: "sanfo2003 <SandyCornelius@...>"  
> <SandyCornelius@...>
>      17. RE: Mayer Rod Substitute...the saga and workflow
>            From: "Shire,Stanley" <sshire@...>
>      18. RE: Re: New Lepp Profiles for 2200
>            From: "Shire,Stanley" <sshire@...>
>      19. Re: Mayer Rod Substitute...the saga and workflow
>            From: "Mark Tucker <mark@...>"  
> <mark@...>
>      20. RE: Mayer Rod Substitute...the saga and workflow
>            From: "Shire,Stanley" <sshire@...>
>      21. Re: 1160 vs. 1280 for quad/hex tone
>            From: "Mark Hahn <markhahn2000@...>"  
> <markhahn2000@...>
>      22. Re: Mayer Rod Substitute...the saga and workflow
>            From: "Tom Andrews <tandrews@...>"  
> <tandrews@...>
>      23. RE: check out - MIS inks and Mulberry Paper
>            From: "Murray Zaharia" <zaharia@...>
>      24. Re: Ah, the digital argument...
>            From: Jerry Olson <jerryolson@...>
>      25. Re: Ah, the digital argument...
>            From: "Clayton Jones <cj@...>" <cj@...>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 1
>    Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 09:49:33 -0500
>    From: "Austin Franklin" <darkroom@...>
> Subject: RE: Re: Ah, the digital argument..
>
>
>> What makes Dylan great is obviously not his voice, but his
>> writing and what
>> he says.
>
> What is it he writes and says?  I can't make out half the words of any  
> of
> his songs...
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 2
>    Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 10:49:21 -0500
>    From: Truman Prevatt <tprevatt@...>
> Subject: Re: Re: Ah, the digital argument..
>
> .............the answer my firend is blowing in the wind.........
>
> Just have to turn you head a little to the left or right to tune it  
> in:-).
>
> Truman
>
> Austin Franklin wrote:
>
>>> What makes Dylan great is obviously not his voice, but his
>>> writing and what
>>> he says.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> What is it he writes and says?  I can't make out half the words of  
>> any of
>> his songs...
>>
>>
>>
>> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls  
>> and other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:
>>
>>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 3
>    Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 11:07:30 -0500
>    From: "Shire,Stanley" <sshire@...>
> Subject: RE: Mayer Rod Substitute...the saga and workflow
>
> Paul:
> I did not roll the screen door spring/dowel combo, but rather dragged  
> it
> (letting its own weight be the major downward force). No rolling.
> Thanks to Carl for his link to the wire size charts. Now we can really
> talk knowledgeably about our wet film thicknesses.
>
> The expansion in print size (1/16" over 11") after coating and drying
> was interesting.
>
> I will try the "padding" under the print.
>
> In an effort to minimize handling while wet, etc. I was considering a
> layer of plastic wrap (wrapping the glass and "padding") under the
> print. My thought is that I could leave the wet print taped in place,
> minimize handling and still have easy cleanup. Does this seem
> reasonable?
>
> Let's hope that Epson does not get this information or screen door
> springs will be given an Epson part number, cost 49.95 and be
> unavailable due to a screen door strike.
> S.
>
> Stan Shire
> Associate Professor/Department Chair
> Photographic Imaging
> Community College of Philadelphia
> Adobe Photoshop 6 A.C.E.
> Author: Hands On Photoshop 7: Tutorial Workshops
>
> 215 751-8320
> sshire@...
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Paul Roark [mailto:paul.roark@...]
> Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 12:18 AM
> To: DigitalB&WPrint
> Subject: [Digital BW] Mayer Rod Substitute...the saga and workflow
>
> Stan,
>
> You wrote:
>
>> ... screen door parts ... looks like a Mayer Rod ..
>> the spring. (#4 D&G Spring, Zinc, about 15.25" in length) $2.42.
>
> I like it.  Now we'll have to see if they have different sizes of
> springs.
>
>> .0488. This is larger than Paul's #14 Mayer (I think
>> .035)
>
> I think the #15 that I started with has .015" wire on it.  I thought
> that is
> where they got those numbers from.
>
> I find myself using the #30 most now, and I think EAM absorbs so much  
> it
> could go to a #45 -- so we may be close here.
>
>> A 1/4" dowel fits nicely inside the spring ...
>
> Does it roll when you drag it across the surface?  I was told not to
> roll
> the bar, but I'm not sure what effect that would have (aside from
> leaving a
> lot more of the coating on the rod/spring.
>
> Keep experimenting.
>
> I think the toughest part may be scaling the process up to large  
> prints.
> I'm not getting the evenness I'd like to on my 16x20s, and Mark Tucker
> has
> resorted to spraying for larger prints -- which is more work.
>
> I'm not sure the hard glass surface is the best.  As the print and rod
> length get larger, I think maintaining a precise flatness becomes much
> more
> difficult.  I have found that a couple pieces of paper under an 8x10
> helps.
> I think more of a cushion under a larger print may be needed.  In the
> real
> world use of these rods, a flexible web is dragged across the rod.   
> This
> is
> flexible enough that the surface being coated conforms to the rod.  I
> notice
> that Diversified Enterprises uses 1/2 inch glass on its platform, and
> they
> have a cushion that is also used.
>
> So, I think we may need to experiment with different surfaces.
>
> For cleanup, I also think coated butcher paper makes a lot of sense.
>
> So, my next experiments may include a piece of cloth taped to the  
> glass,
> then some butcher paper over that. I've tried some felt, and that was
> too
> thick.  The resulting coating had lines in it.
>
> So, just keep experimenting.  The results look good enough to warrant
> the
> effort.
>
> Paul
> http://www.PaulRoark.com
>
>
>
> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls  
> and
> other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
>
> If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish to
> unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting this
> same page.
>
> Please follow these basic guidelines:
> - Include your full name with your message.
> - Include the address of your website, if you have one.
> - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to
> keep them short.
> - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject
> header.
> - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or
> &amp;amp;quot;flames.&amp;amp;quot;
> - Complete your Yahoo profile.
> - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the  
> various
> resources on the homepage.
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!
> <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>  Terms of Service.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 4
>    Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 11:09:23 -0500
>    From: "Shire,Stanley" <sshire@...>
> Subject: RE: Mayer Rod Substitute...the saga and workflow
>
> Carl:
> Thanks for the chart. As soon as I locate a catalog for screen door
> springs we can perhaps use it to get some equivalency chart between the
> mayer rods and the springs.
>
> Stan Shire
> Associate Professor/Department Chair
> Photographic Imaging
> Community College of Philadelphia
> Adobe Photoshop 6 A.C.E.
> Author: Hands On Photoshop 7: Tutorial Workshops
>
> 215 751-8320
> sshire@...
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Carl Schofield [mailto:scho@...]
> Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 9:18 AM
> To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Mayer Rod Substitute...the saga and workflow
>
> I think most screen door springs are made of 16 gauge wire (0.05 inch
> diameter) which would equate to a #50 mayer rod.
> http://www.gardco.com/rodschart.html
>
> On Sunday, December 8, 2002, at 12:17  AM, Paul Roark wrote:
>
>> Stan,
>>
>> You wrote:
>>
>>> ... screen door parts ... looks like a Mayer Rod ..
>>> the spring. (#4 D&G Spring, Zinc, about 15.25" in length) $2.42.
>>
>> I like it.  Now we'll have to see if they have different sizes of
>> springs.
>>
>>> .0488. This is larger than Paul's #14 Mayer (I think
>>> .035)
>>
>> I think the #15 that I started with has .015" wire on it.  I thought
>> that is
>> where they got those numbers from.
>>
>> I find myself using the #30 most now, and I think EAM absorbs so much
>> it
>> could go to a #45 -- so we may be close here.
>>
>>> A 1/4" dowel fits nicely inside the spring ...
>>
>> Does it roll when you drag it across the surface?  I was told not to
>> roll
>> the bar, but I'm not sure what effect that would have (aside from
>> leaving a
>> lot more of the coating on the rod/spring.
>>
>> Keep experimenting.
>>
>> I think the toughest part may be scaling the process up to large
>> prints.
>> I'm not getting the evenness I'd like to on my 16x20s, and Mark Tucker
>
>> has
>> resorted to spraying for larger prints -- which is more work.
>>
>> I'm not sure the hard glass surface is the best.  As the print and rod
>> length get larger, I think maintaining a precise flatness becomes much
>
>> more
>> difficult.  I have found that a couple pieces of paper under an 8x10
>> helps.
>> I think more of a cushion under a larger print may be needed.  In the
>> real
>> world use of these rods, a flexible web is dragged across the rod.
>> This is
>> flexible enough that the surface being coated conforms to the rod.  I
>> notice
>> that Diversified Enterprises uses 1/2 inch glass on its platform, and
>> they
>> have a cushion that is also used.
>>
>> So, I think we may need to experiment with different surfaces.
>>
>> For cleanup, I also think coated butcher paper makes a lot of sense.
>>
>> So, my next experiments may include a piece of cloth taped to the
>> glass,
>> then some butcher paper over that. I've tried some felt, and that was
>> too
>> thick.  The resulting coating had lines in it.
>>
>> So, just keep experimenting.  The results look good enough to warrant
>> the
>> effort.
>>
>> Paul
>> http://www.PaulRoark.com
>>
>>
>>
>> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls
>> and other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:
>>
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
>>
>> If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish
>> to unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting
>> this same page.
>>
>> Please follow these basic guidelines:
>> - Include your full name with your message.
>> - Include the address of your website, if you have one.
>> - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to
>> keep them short.
>> - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject
>> header.
>> - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or
>> &amp;amp;quot;flames.&amp;amp;quot;
>> - Complete your Yahoo profile.
>> - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the
>> various resources on the homepage.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>>
>>
>
>
> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls  
> and
> other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
>
> If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish to
> unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting this
> same page.
>
> Please follow these basic guidelines:
> - Include your full name with your message.
> - Include the address of your website, if you have one.
> - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to
> keep them short.
> - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject
> header.
> - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or
> &amp;amp;quot;flames.&amp;amp;quot;
> - Complete your Yahoo profile.
> - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the  
> various
> resources on the homepage.
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!
> <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>  Terms of Service.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 5
>    Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 16:52:53 -0000
>    From: "frankg_photo <frank@...>" <frank@...>
> Subject: check out - MIS inks and Mulberry Paper
>
> It takes some navigating but check out this site by the Starn Bros.
> (fine artists) they have some prints (leaves, botanicals etc.) that
> are titled/credited with MIS inks and Myulberry paper - whatever the
> heck that is ? Probably some kind of hand-made and hand-coated ?
> http://www.starnstudio.com/page2.htm
>
> enjoy,
> Frank
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 6
>    Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 11:53:11 -0500
>    From: Phil Morse <pmorse@...>
> Subject: Re: Mayer Rod Substitute...the saga and workflow
>
> Stan,
>
> Go to http://www.pbase.com/image/8549120 for a lead on the springs.
> These are from a very old McMasters but will probably be the OK.
>
> Phil Morse
>
> "Shire,Stanley" wrote:
>>
>> Carl:
>> Thanks for the chart. As soon as I locate a catalog for screen door
>> springs we can perhaps use it to get some equivalency chart between  
>> the
>> mayer rods and the springs.
>>
>> Stan Shire
>> Associate Professor/Department Chair
>> Photographic Imaging
>> Community College of Philadelphia
>> Adobe Photoshop 6 A.C.E.
>> Author: Hands On Photoshop 7: Tutorial Workshops
>>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 7
>    Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 12:02:03 -0500
>    From: "Austin Franklin" <darkroom@...>
> Subject: RE: Re: Ah, the digital argument..
>
> There was a movie where this guy was heralded as being a genius, but  
> was
> really sort of a not really with it dolt...he would say things like  
> "plants
> need water", really meaning that the plants were dry, and needed to be
> watered...but others took it as some deep, philosophical statement...   
> What
> was that movie?
>
> Austin
>
>
>> .............the answer my friend is blowing in the wind.........
>>
>> Just have to turn you head a little to the left or right to tune it  
>> in:-).
>>
>> Truman
>>
>> Austin Franklin wrote:
>>
>>>> What makes Dylan great is obviously not his voice, but his
>>>> writing and what
>>>> he says.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> What is it he writes and says?  I can't make out half the words of  
>>> any of
>>> his songs...
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 8
>    Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 12:15:17 -0500
>    From: "Shire,Stanley" <sshire@...>
> Subject: RE: Mayer Rod Substitute...the saga and workflow
>
> Phil:
> Thanks for the spring ref. Looks like the stainless steel would be the
> answer. I'm on it. More tests with various wire diameters to come.
>
> Stan Shire
> Associate Professor/Department Chair
> Photographic Imaging
> Community College of Philadelphia
> Adobe Photoshop 6 A.C.E.
> Author: Hands On Photoshop 7: Tutorial Workshops
>
> 215 751-8320
> sshire@...
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Phil Morse [mailto:pmorse@...]
> Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 11:53 AM
> To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Mayer Rod Substitute...the saga and workflow
>
> Stan,
>
> Go to http://www.pbase.com/image/8549120 for a lead on the springs.
> These are from a very old McMasters but will probably be the OK.
>
> Phil Morse
>
> "Shire,Stanley" wrote:
>>
>> Carl:
>> Thanks for the chart. As soon as I locate a catalog for screen door
>> springs we can perhaps use it to get some equivalency chart between
> the
>> mayer rods and the springs.
>>
>> Stan Shire
>> Associate Professor/Department Chair
>> Photographic Imaging
>> Community College of Philadelphia
>> Adobe Photoshop 6 A.C.E.
>> Author: Hands On Photoshop 7: Tutorial Workshops
>>
>
>
> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls  
> and
> other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
>
> If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish to
> unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting this
> same page.
>
> Please follow these basic guidelines:
> - Include your full name with your message.
> - Include the address of your website, if you have one.
> - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to
> keep them short.
> - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject
> header.
> - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or
> &amp;amp;quot;flames.&amp;amp;quot;
> - Complete your Yahoo profile.
> - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the  
> various
> resources on the homepage.
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!
> <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>  Terms of Service.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 9
>    Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 17:52:16 -0000
>    From: "Bob_Michaels <Bob@...>" <Bob@...>
> Subject: 1160 vs. 1280 for quad/hex tone
>
> Since used 1160s and new 1280s are now about the same price and 1280
> CFS systems deal with the chip issue for $90 more than a 1160 model,
> is there any compelling reason to buy a 1160 any more for quad or
> hextone printing?
>
> While I'm happy with Black Only printing with my 1280, I want to try
> quad or hextone printing (using Epson driver) but wondering why I
> should buy a used 1160 from an unknown person when for a little bit
> more could have a new factory warranty 1280 setup for just a little  
> more.
>
> Bob Michaels
> Apopka FL
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 10
>    Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 18:16:54 -0000
>    From: "Miguel Angel Aleman <alemanma@...>" <alemanma@...>
> Subject: UltraChrome Out-Gassing Concerns
>
> Hello Everyone (important enough to crosspost across various forums)
>
> A recent thread on the Epsonx7x_Printer's forum reports on the
> formation of an oily substance (with a "clear fine sheen"
> appeareance) on the inside of the glass of Ultrachrome/Premium-Luster
> framed pieces and on the inside of clear plastic bags containing
> similar matted pieces.
>
> According to the poster, this is happening with a number of images
> that were allowed to dry for at least 24 hrs before they were
> framed/bagged and are only exposed to normal gallery lighting.
>
> Anything like this going on your Ultrachrome images?
>
> Miguel Angel Aleman
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 11
>    Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 13:22:39 -0500
>    From: Carl Schofield <scho@...>
> Subject: Re: Mayer Rod Substitute...the saga and workflow
>
> Many thanks to Stanley, Paul, and Phil for all of the leads and info on
> this coating process.  I just tried the "faux meyer rod" technique with
> a Stanley screen door spring (1/2" OD, about 12" long,zinc coated) and
> some Zar water based poly (not up to specs, but all I could find at the
> local hardware store).  I didn't use a dowel because the spring is
> quite stiff and didn't flex at all when pulling the poly over the
> print.  For the trials I used small UC matte black prints on 8.5x11
> inch 190gsm Eclipse Satine BW, taped to a sheet of glass, with copy
> paper backing as recommended by Paul.  First trial I didn't apply
> enough poly (used about 8cc) and the bead (puddle) was a little skimpy
> at the ends so by the time I reached the bottom of the print I ran out
> of poly and the bottom corners didn't get coated.  Second trial I used
> about 12cc of poly and was more careful laying out the bead across the
> top of the print and got a perfect coat.  I was absolutely stunned by
> the beauty of the surface and depth of the blacks - looks exactly like
> some of my old air dried silver prints on Oriental Seagull.
>
> If you haven't already found it, the McMaster-Carr catalog is online,
> including all of the springs that Phil showed from his catalog:
> http://www.mcmaster.com/
>
> Carl
>   On Sunday, December 8, 2002, at 12:15  PM, Shire,Stanley wrote:
>
>> Phil:
>> Thanks for the spring ref. Looks like the stainless steel would be the
>> answer. I'm on it. More tests with various wire diameters to come.
>>
>> Stan Shire
>> Associate Professor/Department Chair
>> Photographic Imaging
>> Community College of Philadelphia
>> Adobe Photoshop 6 A.C.E.
>> Author: Hands On Photoshop 7: Tutorial Workshops
>>
>> 215 751-8320
>> sshire@...
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Phil Morse [mailto:pmorse@...]
>> Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 11:53 AM
>> To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
>> Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Mayer Rod Substitute...the saga and workflow
>>
>> Stan,
>>
>> Go to http://www.pbase.com/image/8549120 for a lead on the springs.
>> These are from a very old McMasters but will probably be the OK.
>>
>> Phil Morse
>>
>> "Shire,Stanley" wrote:
>>>
>>> Carl:
>>> Thanks for the chart. As soon as I locate a catalog for screen door
>>> springs we can perhaps use it to get some equivalency chart between
>> the
>>> mayer rods and the springs.
>>>
>>> Stan Shire
>>> Associate Professor/Department Chair
>>> Photographic Imaging
>>> Community College of Philadelphia
>>> Adobe Photoshop 6 A.C.E.
>>> Author: Hands On Photoshop 7: Tutorial Workshops
>>>
>>
>>
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>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 12
>    Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 18:29:34 -0000
>    From: "John Vitollo <johnnyv@...>" <johnnyv@...>
> Subject: test
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 13
>    Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 19:00:25 -0000
>    From: "Bob Frost" <bobfrost@...>
> Subject: Re: Re: Chemistry refresher course
>
> Jerry,
>
> In some respects yes: but in terms of danger - NO. If you put caustic  
> soda
> (sodium hydroxide - a base) on your skin, as it's name suggests,  
> you'll get
> very bad burns, just as with a concentrated acid.
>
> Bob Frost.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jerry Olson" <jerryolson@...>
>
>
>> But ammonia is a base. big difference.
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 14
>    Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 19:02:43 -0000
>    From: "Stephen A. Tucker <stephentucker@...>"  
> <stephentucker@...>
> Subject: Re: Ah, the digital argument . . .
>
>> Truman Prevatt wrote:
>>
>> The harderst thing in art may be to become your
>> own person, express yourself - not express what
>> you think is safe. Retaking AA or Weston is safe
>> - moving out on our owns is scary."
>>
>
> I USED to be scared to move out on my own. Years
> ago I became discouraged and gave up photography
> when it seemed that I had nothing to say - nothing
> to add to those who came before me.  Everything had
> been done so many times before.  And usually better
> than I was capable of.
>
> Digital photography re-invigorated my intertest.
> I'm still not sure I have anything "new" to add to
> the art of photography - others will have to be the
> judge of that.  I'm too busy enjoying myself.
>
> Achieving an original vision remains a difficult and
> elusive goal for most of us; relax and do what comes
> naturally.  At least the fright goes away.
>
> Steve T.
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 15
>    Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 19:29:15 -0000
>    From: "Clayton Jones <cj@...>" <cj@...>
> Subject: Re: Ah, the digital argument..
>
>> There was a movie where this guy was heralded as being a genius, but
> was really sort of a not really with it dolt...he would say things
> like "plants need water", really meaning that the plants were dry, and
> needed to be watered...but others took it as some deep, philosophical
> statement...  What was that movie?
>
> "Being There", with Peter Sellers as the gardener.  Great movie, and
> one of his last before he died.
>
> Regards, - cj
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 16
>    Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 20:10:06 -0000
>    From: "sanfo2003 <SandyCornelius@...>" <SandyCornelius@...>
> Subject: Re: New Lepp Profiles for 2200
>
> The problem I'm running into with greyscale images on the 2200 is
> with metamerism. From what I understand metamerism is caused by an
> unaligned distribution of pigment particles in the ink that causes
> the reflected light to scatter. It seems that as the thickness of the
> the ink layer varies so does the metamerism effect thus getting a hue
> shift across tones. The fundamental hue will change depending on the
> frequency of light reflecting off the ink pigment, this is why you
> get the characteristic magenta cast under tungsten light and green
> cast under daylight. Since the hue is constantly shifting within
> lighter and darker areas of the print due to metamerism, you can't
> really build a custom profile to counter this effect since no
> spectrophotometer/profile bundle is designed to deal with metamerism.
>
> Another phenomenom that we have to deal with is that the human eye
> can pick up a subtle color cast in a greyscale image right away when
> the same cast may go unnoticed in a color image. Tons of toner
> solution has been sold in the conventional darkroom field to take
> artistic advantage of this ability to pick up a color cast in
> greyscale.
>
> So, as far as digital greyscale images are concerned, one could have
> a spot-on profile but still have an unacceptable print due to
> metamerism. The bottom line is this: metamerism is an ink issue and
> must be solved there before greyscales are beautifully consistant
> using archival pigment inks.
>
> Mechanically Epson printers are there, now Epson should concentrate
> on their drivers and inks to deal with the above. I know it can be
> done (in fact, some say ColorByte's ImagePrint 5.0 RIP has already
> done it, although it wouldn't run on my machine), and when it is we
> can concentrate on the art -- and Epson can sell more printers and
> ink. I would call that a win-win situation.
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 17
>    Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 15:13:05 -0500
>    From: "Shire,Stanley" <sshire@...>
> Subject: RE: Mayer Rod Substitute...the saga and workflow
>
> More test results. At Paul's suggestion I laid a few sheets of copy
> paper under the print. Better. Recommended.
> I also tried covering the copy paper and glass with Saran Wrap. My
> thought was to leave the print undisturbed until dry.
> Bad idea. The poly did not dry on the bottom. I removed it and dried it
> on a junk matboard.
> All was well. Print looks great. Printed a second copy, uncoated for
> densitometer measurements tomorrow.
> Next try will be to dry the print on a fiberglass screen (I knew there
> was a reason not to toss those silver print drying screens.)
>
> Stan Shire
> Associate Professor/Department Chair
> Photographic Imaging
> Community College of Philadelphia
> Adobe Photoshop 6 A.C.E.
> Author: Hands On Photoshop 7: Tutorial Workshops
>
> 215 751-8320
> sshire@...
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Carl Schofield [mailto:scho@...]
> Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 1:23 PM
> To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Mayer Rod Substitute...the saga and workflow
>
> Many thanks to Stanley, Paul, and Phil for all of the leads and info on
> this coating process.  I just tried the "faux meyer rod" technique with
> a Stanley screen door spring (1/2" OD, about 12" long,zinc coated) and
> some Zar water based poly (not up to specs, but all I could find at the
> local hardware store).  I didn't use a dowel because the spring is
> quite stiff and didn't flex at all when pulling the poly over the
> print.  For the trials I used small UC matte black prints on 8.5x11
> inch 190gsm Eclipse Satine BW, taped to a sheet of glass, with copy
> paper backing as recommended by Paul.  First trial I didn't apply
> enough poly (used about 8cc) and the bead (puddle) was a little skimpy
> at the ends so by the time I reached the bottom of the print I ran out
> of poly and the bottom corners didn't get coated.  Second trial I used
> about 12cc of poly and was more careful laying out the bead across the
> top of the print and got a perfect coat.  I was absolutely stunned by
> the beauty of the surface and depth of the blacks - looks exactly like
> some of my old air dried silver prints on Oriental Seagull.
>
> If you haven't already found it, the McMaster-Carr catalog is online,
> including all of the springs that Phil showed from his catalog:
> http://www.mcmaster.com/
>
> Carl
>   On Sunday, December 8, 2002, at 12:15  PM, Shire,Stanley wrote:
>
>> Phil:
>> Thanks for the spring ref. Looks like the stainless steel would be the
>> answer. I'm on it. More tests with various wire diameters to come.
>>
>> Stan Shire
>> Associate Professor/Department Chair
>> Photographic Imaging
>> Community College of Philadelphia
>> Adobe Photoshop 6 A.C.E.
>> Author: Hands On Photoshop 7: Tutorial Workshops
>>
>> 215 751-8320
>> sshire@...
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Phil Morse [mailto:pmorse@...]
>> Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 11:53 AM
>> To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
>> Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Mayer Rod Substitute...the saga and workflow
>>
>> Stan,
>>
>> Go to http://www.pbase.com/image/8549120 for a lead on the springs.
>> These are from a very old McMasters but will probably be the OK.
>>
>> Phil Morse
>>
>> "Shire,Stanley" wrote:
>>>
>>> Carl:
>>> Thanks for the chart. As soon as I locate a catalog for screen door
>>> springs we can perhaps use it to get some equivalency chart between
>> the
>>> mayer rods and the springs.
>>>
>>> Stan Shire
>>> Associate Professor/Department Chair
>>> Photographic Imaging
>>> Community College of Philadelphia
>>> Adobe Photoshop 6 A.C.E.
>>> Author: Hands On Photoshop 7: Tutorial Workshops
>>>
>>
>>
>> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls
>> and
>> other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:
>>
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
>>
>> If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish
> to
>> unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting this
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>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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>> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls
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>
>
> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls  
> and
> other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:
>
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>
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>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 18
>    Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 15:21:51 -0500
>    From: "Shire,Stanley" <sshire@...>
> Subject: RE: Re: New Lepp Profiles for 2200
>
> You wrote "you can't really build a custom profile to counter this
> effect since no
> spectrophotometer/profile bundle is designed to deal with metamerism."
> This is about to change. I had a lengthy discussion with a
> Gretag/Macbeth engineer at PhotoPlus Expo in NYC last month.
> He said that Q1 - 2003, software will be available for the EyeOne to
> make it act as a spectroradiometer (Boy, that's my word-of-the-week)
> The concept is that a standard profile is built; the EyeOne (presumably
> on a laptop) is placed under the display light source (the EyeOne, I
> assume is pointed at the light source to measure the ambient light).
> This data then modifies the profile to create one which, under that
> specific light source, exhibits no metamerism)
> Also, ColorByte's profiles for Imageprint come in 3 flavors (cool  
> white,
> daylight and tungsten). The metamerism issue is being addressed.
>
>
>
>
> Stan Shire
> Associate Professor/Department Chair
> Photographic Imaging
> Community College of Philadelphia
> Adobe Photoshop 6 A.C.E.
> Author: Hands On Photoshop 7: Tutorial Workshops
>
> 215 751-8320
> sshire@...
> -----Original Message-----
> From: sanfo2003 <SandyCornelius@...>  
> [mailto:SandyCornelius@...]
>
> Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 3:10 PM
> To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Digital BW] Re: New Lepp Profiles for 2200
>
> The problem I'm running into with greyscale images on the 2200 is
> with metamerism. From what I understand metamerism is caused by an
> unaligned distribution of pigment particles in the ink that causes
> the reflected light to scatter. It seems that as the thickness of the
> the ink layer varies so does the metamerism effect thus getting a hue
> shift across tones. The fundamental hue will change depending on the
> frequency of light reflecting off the ink pigment, this is why you
> get the characteristic magenta cast under tungsten light and green
> cast under daylight. Since the hue is constantly shifting within
> lighter and darker areas of the print due to metamerism, you can't
> really build a custom profile to counter this effect since no
> spectrophotometer/profile bundle is designed to deal with metamerism.
>
> Another phenomenom that we have to deal with is that the human eye
> can pick up a subtle color cast in a greyscale image right away when
> the same cast may go unnoticed in a color image. Tons of toner
> solution has been sold in the conventional darkroom field to take
> artistic advantage of this ability to pick up a color cast in
> greyscale.
>
> So, as far as digital greyscale images are concerned, one could have
> a spot-on profile but still have an unacceptable print due to
> metamerism. The bottom line is this: metamerism is an ink issue and
> must be solved there before greyscales are beautifully consistant
> using archival pigment inks.
>
> Mechanically Epson printers are there, now Epson should concentrate
> on their drivers and inks to deal with the above. I know it can be
> done (in fact, some say ColorByte's ImagePrint 5.0 RIP has already
> done it, although it wouldn't run on my machine), and when it is we
> can concentrate on the art -- and Epson can sell more printers and
> ink. I would call that a win-win situation.
>
>
> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls  
> and
> other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
>
> If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish to
> unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting this
> same page.
>
> Please follow these basic guidelines:
> - Include your full name with your message.
> - Include the address of your website, if you have one.
> - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to
> keep them short.
> - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject
> header.
> - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or
> &amp;amp;quot;flames.&amp;amp;quot;
> - Complete your Yahoo profile.
> - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the  
> various
> resources on the homepage.
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!
> <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>  Terms of Service.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 19
>    Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 21:02:35 -0000
>    From: "Mark Tucker <mark@...>" <mark@...>
> Subject: Re: Mayer Rod Substitute...the saga and workflow
>
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com,
> "Shire,Stanley" <sshire@c...> wrote:
> Next try will be to dry the print on a fiberglass screen (I knew
> there
>> was a reason not to toss those silver print drying screens.)
>
>
> Stan,
>
> They Hydrocote that I'm using (and Paul) is nasty stuff when it
> comes to drying. It dries very fast, and it will stick to almost
> anything. I've lost several test prints, due to leaving them alone,
> lying flat on wood, or something else. I come back ten minutes
> later, and they are STUCK solid to whatever they were lying on.
>
> I would suggest maybe a quart can of paint, and then lay the print
> on its back, with the quart of paint dead center of the Letter size
> print. Just so that no coating is touching any part of what its
> resting on.
>
> The coating process is most definitely a double edged sword.
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 20
>    Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 16:02:53 -0500
>    From: "Shire,Stanley" <sshire@...>
> Subject: RE: Mayer Rod Substitute...the saga and workflow
>
> Thanks for the warning. I'm expecting my Hydrocote shipment tomorrow.
>
>
> Stan Shire
> Associate Professor/Department Chair
> Photographic Imaging
> Community College of Philadelphia
> Adobe Photoshop 6 A.C.E.
> Author: Hands On Photoshop 7: Tutorial Workshops
>
> 215 751-8320
> sshire@...
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mark Tucker <mark@...> [mailto:mark@...]
> Sent: Sunday, December 08, 2002 4:03 PM
> To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Mayer Rod Substitute...the saga and workflow
>
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com,
> "Shire,Stanley" <sshire@c...> wrote:
> Next try will be to dry the print on a fiberglass screen (I knew
> there
>> was a reason not to toss those silver print drying screens.)
>
>
> Stan,
>
> They Hydrocote that I'm using (and Paul) is nasty stuff when it
> comes to drying. It dries very fast, and it will stick to almost
> anything. I've lost several test prints, due to leaving them alone,
> lying flat on wood, or something else. I come back ten minutes
> later, and they are STUCK solid to whatever they were lying on.
>
> I would suggest maybe a quart can of paint, and then lay the print
> on its back, with the quart of paint dead center of the Letter size
> print. Just so that no coating is touching any part of what its
> resting on.
>
> The coating process is most definitely a double edged sword.
>
>
>
>
>
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> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls  
> and
> other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
>
> If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish to
> unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting this
> same page.
>
> Please follow these basic guidelines:
> - Include your full name with your message.
> - Include the address of your website, if you have one.
> - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to
> keep them short.
> - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject
> header.
> - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or
> &amp;amp;quot;flames.&amp;amp;quot;
> - Complete your Yahoo profile.
> - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the  
> various
> resources on the homepage.
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!
> <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>  Terms of Service.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 21
>    Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 21:37:12 -0000
>    From: "Mark Hahn <markhahn2000@...>" <markhahn2000@...>
> Subject: Re: 1160 vs. 1280 for quad/hex tone
>
> less nozzles and hoses to clog?
>
> I don't know, would be a tough call... the cheapest route would be
> just stop printing color and use the 1280 that you already have:)
>
> mark
>
> --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Bob_Michaels
> <Bob@B...>" <Bob@B...> wrote:
>> Since used 1160s and new 1280s are now about the same price and 1280
>> CFS systems deal with the chip issue for $90 more than a 1160 model,
>> is there any compelling reason to buy a 1160 any more for quad or
>> hextone printing?
>>
>> While I'm happy with Black Only printing with my 1280, I want to try
>> quad or hextone printing (using Epson driver) but wondering why I
>> should buy a used 1160 from an unknown person when for a little bit
>> more could have a new factory warranty 1280 setup for just a little
> more.
>>
>> Bob Michaels
>> Apopka FL
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 22
>    Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 21:47:07 -0000
>    From: "Tom Andrews <tandrews@...>" <tandrews@...>
> Subject: Re: Mayer Rod Substitute...the saga and workflow
>
> Hi Mark,
>
> How would you compare your E Velvet Somerset prints without coating  
> with
> the coated ESFA prints you have been experimenting with?  Have you
> compared the same image printed both ways?  This coating business for  
> large
> prints sounds like a huge pain in the ass.   Some time ago you were  
> printing
> on Brightcube Eclipse Satine BrightWhite (print exchange-really  
> nice!).  How
> do you compare this with the E Velvet Somerset?  And have you tried the
> Hahnemuhle PhotoRag for comparison?  I know you are looking for a  
> really
> substantial hands on feel for your paper, but I am trying to get an  
> idea of the
> print appearance without concern for paper weight.  Many thanks!!
>
> Tom Andrews
> http://www.wildlandart.com
>
>>
>> Ironically, I have switched papers to the Epson Velvet Somerset
>> 505gsm sheet weight in this 9600, and with the tweaked
>> Atkinson profile for it, I am not even feeling the desire to coat
>> them. Which is really a drag after spending all this money and
>> time buying sprayers, etc. That 505 paper is just gorgeous.
>>
>> We'll see what happens. I'm sure I'll change my mind tomorrow.
>>
>> MT, http://www.marktucker.com/
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 23
>    Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2002 14:07:55 -0800
>    From: "Murray Zaharia" <zaharia@...>
> Subject: RE: check out - MIS inks and Mulberry Paper
>
>
> Thanks Frank.
> That has got to be about the coolest Flash site that I have ever seen!
> MZ
>
> It takes some navigating but check out this site by the Starn Bros.
> (fine artists) they have some prints (leaves, botanicals etc.) that
> are titled/credited with MIS inks and Myulberry paper - whatever the
> heck that is ? Probably some kind of hand-made and hand-coated ?
> http://www.starnstudio.com/page2.htm
>
> enjoy,
> Frank
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 24
>    Date: Sun, 08 Dec 2002 16:43:08 -0600
>    From: Jerry Olson <jerryolson@...>
> Subject: Re: Ah, the digital argument...
>
> Clayton, this reminds me of what Professor Bogie said at our first  
> print
> critique
> at Brooks.  "Don't ever bring me a print of a wagon wheel". Ever. I
> don't care how great the quality is, I don't want to see it.
>
> Sure enough, the last day of class someone brought in a fairly nice
> picture of a wagon wheel, all mounted on a nice board. Bogie walked  
> over
> to it, picked it up, and tore it into little bits, threw it in the  
> waste
> basket, and went on with the class like nothing had happened. He just
> hated wagon wheels.
>
> Jerry
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
> Message: 25
>    Date: Mon, 09 Dec 2002 00:05:57 -0000
>    From: "Clayton Jones <cj@...>" <cj@...>
> Subject: Re: Ah, the digital argument...
>
> Jerry,
>
>> ...picked it up, and tore it into little bits, threw it in the waste
>> basket, and went on with the class like nothing had happened. He
>> just hated wagon wheels.
>
> Good story.  BTW, I forgot to add something to the list of what I saw
> at that web site:  cypress roots and kelp at Pt Lobos.
>
> Regards, - cj
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
> _______________________________________________________________________ 
> _
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to  
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
gary

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