Digital BW, The Print

I need some advice of framing.

The large prints from the 7500 are a new experience for me, and my old
method for framing prints seems to be causing "loose" looking prints that
are not entirely flat.

This is what I'm doing.  I use 2 Light Impressions tapes on the back of the
print, and then 2 to form a "T" above the print that holds the print to a
backing -- Light Impressions Archival foam core usually.  An 8 ply over mat
is then used (hinged onto the backing by Light Impressions) and the sandwich
is put behind 1/8 inch acrylic and into a metal "Nielsen" type frame.  The
backing, over mat, and glazing fit fairly snuggly into the frame, so that I
have not felt the need for springs.

A few days after hanging on the wall, the print and over mat look loose.
The 32 by 38 inch external dimensions of the frame are, perhaps, too large
for this method to end up as a tight sandwich that holds the print flat.

Any thoughts on how to hold the package together would be most appreciated.

I suspect thicker paper would help, but I like the look and price of EEM
rolls.   For sale prints I'll use cotton paper, but for hanging a show, EEM
seems like the cost-effective and expedient way to do it.

Paul
http://www.PaulRoark.com

Paul, I watched Geo DeWolfe mat a print for me about the same size 
and what he did is about the sane except he mounted it on the same 
mat board as the mat and then put the foam core behind that. So you 
have Mat, Print, Mat Board and then foam core. I don't see any signs 
of it being loose. Don't know if this helps.

Vinny
http://www.wulfsden.com




--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Roark" 
<paul.roark@v...> wrote:
> I need some advice of framing.
> 
> The large prints from the 7500 are a new experience for me, and my 
old
> method for framing prints seems to be causing "loose" looking 
prints that
> are not entirely flat.
> 
> This is what I'm doing.  I use 2 Light Impressions tapes on the 
back of the
> print, and then 2 to form a "T" above the print that holds the 
print to a
> backing -- Light Impressions Archival foam core usually.  An 8 ply 
over mat
> is then used (hinged onto the backing by Light Impressions) and the 
sandwich
> is put behind 1/8 inch acrylic and into a metal "Nielsen" type 
frame.  The
> backing, over mat, and glazing fit fairly snuggly into the frame, 
so that I
> have not felt the need for springs.
> 
> A few days after hanging on the wall, the print and over mat look 
loose.
> The 32 by 38 inch external dimensions of the frame are, perhaps, 
too large
> for this method to end up as a tight sandwich that holds the print 
flat.
> 
> Any thoughts on how to hold the package together would be most 
appreciated.
> 
> I suspect thicker paper would help, but I like the look and price 
of EEM
> rolls.   For sale prints I'll use cotton paper, but for hanging a 
show, EEM

> seems like the cost-effective and expedient way to do it.
> 
> Paul
> http://www.PaulRoark.com

Sometimes the curling of the print has a lot to do with changes in
temperature and humidity.  In other cases, where you put the tape hinges can
make a difference.  If there are any good frame shops in your area, you
might want to ask the person who does most of the matting where they would
suggest putting the tape on larger prints.

How about using archival photo corners instead of tape?

Stephen Petegorsky wrote:

> Sometimes the curling of the print has a lot to do with changes in
> temperature and humidity.  In other cases, where you put the tape 
> hinges can
> make a difference.  If there are any good frame shops in your area, you
> might want to ask the person who does most of the matting where they would
> suggest putting the tape on larger prints.
>
>
>
>
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

The problem with corners is that if you make them fit very snugly around a
print that is framed in a dry environment, the print will curl as it expands
when it is hung in a climate that is more humid.  Sometimes you can get
around this by having the bottom corners be less snug so that the print can
expand a bit without creating pressure, but this is only possible if the
overmat cuts into the image a bit.  If your overmat allows a border between
the image and the overmat, then you run the risk of the print shifting and
the borders becoming less than even side-to-side, etc.

Paul,
I start by hinging my cut out mat to acid free backer with archival gummed
tape from Cone (or Light Impressions).

Then, I place the print in position and temporarily tape the top edge to the
backer. Next I use 3M Archival double-faced transfer tape across the top and
bottom of the backside of the print and also form an "X" with two diagonal
strips. I cover the front surface of the print with a scrap piece of
matboard and put weight on the sandwich for a few hours or overnite if I
can.

I back up with standard foamcore and assemble the sandwich, with glass, into
the wide faced frame (from Dick Blick). I use the springs for extra tension
and to allow for expansion. This has worked for 16" x 20" framed prints with
no apparent bad effect.

fwiw,

Capuozzo

  -----Original Message-----
  From: Paul Roark [mailto:paul.roark@...]
  Sent: Monday, March 24, 2003 11:37 PM
  To: DigitalB&WPrint
  Subject: [Digital BW] Framing 22x28 inch prints


  I need some advice of framing.

  The large prints from the 7500 are a new experience for me, and my old
  method for framing prints seems to be causing "loose" looking prints that
  are not entirely flat.

  This is what I'm doing.  I use 2 Light Impressions tapes on the back of
the
  print, and then 2 to form a "T" above the print that holds the print to a
  backing -- Light Impressions Archival foam core usually.  An 8 ply over
mat
  is then used (hinged onto the backing by Light Impressions) and the
sandwich
  is put behind 1/8 inch acrylic and into a metal "Nielsen" type frame.  The
  backing, over mat, and glazing fit fairly snuggly into the frame, so that
I
  have not felt the need for springs.

  A few days after hanging on the wall, the print and over mat look loose.
  The 32 by 38 inch external dimensions of the frame are, perhaps, too large
  for this method to end up as a tight sandwich that holds the print flat.

  Any thoughts on how to hold the package together would be most
appreciated.

  I suspect thicker paper would help, but I like the look and price of EEM
  rolls.   For sale prints I'll use cotton paper, but for hanging a show,
EEM
  seems like the cost-effective and expedient way to do it.

  Paul
  http://www.PaulRoark.com



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  - Include the address of your website, if you have one.
  - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep
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  - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject header.
  - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Roark" 
<paul.roark@v...> wrote:
> I need some advice of framing.
> 
> The large prints from the 7500 are a new experience for me, and my 
old
> method for framing prints seems to be causing "loose" looking 
prints that
> are not entirely flat.
> 
> This is what I'm doing.  I use 2 Light Impressions tapes on the 
back of the
> print, and then 2 to form a "T" above the print that holds the 
print to a
> backing -- Light Impressions Archival foam core usually.  An 8 ply 
over mat
> is then used (hinged onto the backing by Light Impressions) and the 
sandwich
> is put behind 1/8 inch acrylic and into a metal "Nielsen" type 
frame.  The
> backing, over mat, and glazing fit fairly snuggly into the frame, 
so that I
> have not felt the need for springs.
> 
> A few days after hanging on the wall, the print and over mat look 
loose.
> The 32 by 38 inch external dimensions of the frame are, perhaps, 
too large
> for this method to end up as a tight sandwich that holds the print 
flat.
> 
> Any thoughts on how to hold the package together would be most 
appreciated.
> 
> I suspect thicker paper would help, but I like the look and price 
of EEM
> rolls.   For sale prints I'll use cotton paper, but for hanging a 
show, EEM
> seems like the cost-effective and expedient way to do it.
> 
> Paul
> http://www.PaulRoark.com

Hi Paul,
Bummer! I drymount my work so I don't have the same issues but I have 
framed a lot of Etchings, Serigraphs, Watercolors etc. using the 
hinged tab technique. Don't place the hinges too close to the ends. 
About half the width of the print between them usually works to 
balance the weight. I have always mounted the print on the same type 
of board as the mat but I don't know if this matters or not. The 
usual cause of the reaction you are getting is that the print, mat 
and backing are not at the same temperature and humidity level when 
they are encaputlated. Also, that is a pretty big frame for the 
plexiglass to stay flat. It may be that the Plex is not holding the 
sandwich together. I would try glass to see if it makes a difference. 
Let us know when you resolve this.

Jerome

http://www.jeromehawkins.com