Digital BW, The Print

Paul,
I have just printed wedges for all the curves for UT and 1280.
I LOVE WHAT I SEE.  They work like magic.  Smooth, consistent.
I can't even express how grateful I am for the curves themselves and
you help with explanation.
I converted a perfectly well working (in color) , one year old 1280
to CFS UT (I bought the new same unit for color).  Right now with
the curves working like that I am happy to have started it.
Thanks again.
Jack

Ps.  I have just gotten Hydrocote Polyshield in gloss and satin.
I am still waiting for my Mayer rods, but using just a chop stick
I made a surface test putting both coats on the EEM.
When printing wet prints I loved the look of Ilford MC glossy
air dried and straightened in the hot mount press.  The satin
hydrocote reminds me about that.  Beautiful, deep blacks (even
though I didn't bother with ebony and use a photo pk),  bright
highlights, and semi glossy surface without a texture.
I hope that evenly applied surface with the rod will be good.
Glossy is not bad looking either, but I prefer satin.
Quart of Polyshield is about $18.

_________________________________________________
Jack M Kucy
JMK Gallery (www.jmk-gallery.com)
917-991-2096     jmk@...
Member of ASMP (www.asmp.org)
_________________________________________________
...a riveder le stelle


Paul Roark wrote:

> The new 1280 Ultra Tone curves use the same basic workflow as the old vm
> curves (edit in grayscale, save file, convert file to RGB, apply 
> curves, and
> print).
>
> They, of course, were written for the Ultra Tone B&W inks, not the old MIS
> VM inks.
>
> There are significant differences in settings.  The new curves use "No 
> Color
> Adjustment" in the driver color management section.  This disables the
> sliders but makes the curves cross-platform.  Also, the RGB type should be
> Adobe RGB (1998). (This is set in Edit, Color Settings;  I set all to PS5
> defaults and then just change RGB to Adobe (1998).)
>
> The paper setting is Photo Paper, and the resolution should be 1440.
>
> As before, these curves were written for EAM/EEM.
>
> Let me know how it goes.
>
> Paul
> http://www.PaulRoark.com
> ________________________________________
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jack M Kucy [mailto:jmk@...]
> Sent: Monday, June 30, 2003 11:38 PM
> To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Digital BW] New UT curves for 1280 - downloaded
>
>
> I seem to have a problem with the new curves.  I downloaded them, tried to
> follow all instructions and when I print the gray wedge using  UT80-N I
> can't
> get consistent neutral gray across the wedge.  Some areas are very blue
> (60-90)
> and the other very worm (with the pick about 25-35). I might have been 
> doing
> something completely wrong or... I got no idea.
> I did even an experiment and printed the wedge (converted to RGB) which
> I "color balanced" with magenta (to activate the cool ink) as follows:
> shadows 0, -5, 0;  mid tones 0, -15, 0;  highlights 0, -10, 0.
> It gave me wedge print of nice, consistently neutral gray.
> ------
> Can anyone summarize the workflow with these curves?
> I would appreciate that.
> Thanks
> Jack
>
> _________________________________________________
> Jack M Kucy
> JMK Gallery (www.jmk-gallery.com)
> 917-991-2096     jmk@...
> Member of ASMP (www.asmp.org)
> _________________________________________________
> ...a riveder le stelle
>
>
> Paul Roark wrote:
>
> > >Can you by chance point me to a download site for your
> > >new 1280 Ultra Tone curves?
> >
> > The curves are in the Files section of this forum at:
> >
> > Files > Ink Sets > MIS > MIS Ultra Tone Inks
> >
> > Paul
> > http://www.PaulRoark.com
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and
> other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
>
> If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you wish to
> unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by visiting this same
> page.
>
> Please follow these basic guidelines:
> - Include your full name with your message.
> - Include the address of your website, if you have one.
> - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep
> them short.
> - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject header.
> - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or flames
> - Complete your Yahoo profile.
> - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the various
> resources on the homepage.
>
>
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Can you provide some details about where you're purchasing
your Mayer rods and Polyshield Hydrocote ?

I'm eager to try this technique myself, but a little daunted
by the up-front costs (probably $100 for the rod, and a quart
of PUR, and a heavy piece of float glass as a working surface).

Anyone else tried it and pleased ?

Thanks, John