Digital BW, The Print

I just got the MIS UT inks and they actually produce a neutral B&W, 
however, the prints I am getting are high contrast, too light and 
media gray where they should be close to dark gray. I have tried 
Paul's UT workflow and curves and, using no curves.

Any suggestions most welcome. It's the first ink I have tried that 
doesn't look brown or purple so I'd love to get the settings right.

Thanks,
Bill

I installed the UT inks and had the same problem. I kept running nozzel checks that went from ok to almost no ink. Finally occurred to me to make very sure that I had tightly sealed off the top of both cartridges with tape. I redid the tape across the top as a precaution. After quite a few more cleanings  and  nozzle checks to get out all the air bubbles I had introduced, very nice nozzel checks.  And then, viola! My 1160 prints are just as Paul Roark described. Best of luck on this.

mediaworks2003 <centralny121@...> wrote:I just got the MIS UT inks and they actually produce a neutral B&W, 
however, the prints I am getting are high contrast, too light and 
media gray where they should be close to dark gray. I have tried 
Paul's UT workflow and curves and, using no curves.

Any suggestions most welcome. It's the first ink I have tried that 
doesn't look brown or purple so I'd love to get the settings right.

Thanks,
Bill


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks.

I'll give it a try

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, jerry dungan 
<jerry_4y@y...> wrote:
> I installed the UT inks and had the same problem. I kept running 
nozzel checks that went from ok to almost no ink. Finally occurred 
to me to make very sure that I had tightly sealed off the top of 
both cartridges with tape. I redid the tape across the top as a 
precaution. After quite a few more cleanings  and  nozzle checks to 
get out all the air bubbles I had introduced, very nice nozzel 
checks.  And then, viola! My 1160 prints are just as Paul Roark 
described. Best of luck on this.
> 
> mediaworks2003 <centralny121@h...> wrote:I just got the MIS UT 
inks and they actually produce a neutral B&W, 
> however, the prints I am getting are high contrast, too light and 
> media gray where they should be close to dark gray. I have tried 
> Paul's UT workflow and curves and, using no curves.
> 
> Any suggestions most welcome. It's the first ink I have tried that 
> doesn't look brown or purple so I'd love to get the settings right.
> 
> Thanks,
> Bill
> 
> 
> Yahoo! Groups SponsorADVERTISEMENT
> 
> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, 
Polls and other resources as they are often being updated. The page 
is at:
> 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
> 
> If you wish to receive no emails or just a daily digest, or you 
wish to unsubscribe, please edit your Membership preferences by 
visiting this same page.
> 
> Please follow these basic guidelines:
> - Include your full name with your message.
> - Include the address of your website, if you have one.
> - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages 
to keep them short.
> - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject 
header.
> - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or 
flames
> - Complete your Yahoo profile.
> - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the 
various resources on the homepage. 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of 
Service. 

> 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "mediaworks2003" 
<centralny121@h...> wrote:
> I just got the MIS UT inks and they actually produce a neutral B&W, 
> however, the prints I am getting are high contrast, too light and 
> media gray where they should be close to dark gray. I have tried 
> Paul's UT workflow and curves and, using no curves.

Hi Bill, I can tell about my experiences as I have gone through the 
same experiences in the last 2-3 days: My first UT prints looked 
awful. It didn't become necessarily visible with nature scenes etc, 
but I printed dozens of portraits, group shots, and the skin tones 
looked really awful, as if the persons were very ill :-)

So I developed and tweaked a "correction curve" that I lay over the 
images before applying Paul's UT curves and after a lot of printing 
and tweaking I finally have managed to get consistent and very nice 
looking prints with neutral and slightly warm prints. For C+3 I 
haven't checked yet, I don't like this tone so far anyway, but I am 
happy to get now prints that look like very fine silver prints and 
are better than anything I have ever seen out of the 1160.

Actually I must say that it is not 1 but 2 curves. After finishing 
the first one I realized that the shadows have become to light so I 
applied a second curve.  

This is not a problem however because while I apply the first curve 
to all prints I have tweaked the second curve to adapt to different 
papers. One for archival matte, one for semigloss and I will try 
other papers. Probably someone who knows a 
little bit about math on the PC could easily combine the 2 curves 
into one. I just dont have time to check that out.

If someone is interested I could send him/ her the curves - also in 
order to know if it works for other setups than my own.

regards Bernie

> Probably someone who knows a 
> little bit about math on the PC could easily combine the 2 curves 
> into one. I just dont have time to check that out.

If you want to merge the curves into a single one you can apply them to
a stepwedge, read the RGB value from each patch and input those values
into a new curve. I frequently do this when I create custom correction
curves for the Ultratones in my 2100. 

Only problem is that each curve can hold a maximum of 16 points, so
you'll have to delete some points to make everything fit.

--
Daniel Staver
http://daniel.staver.no

Thanks for the response. I just saw it.

I'd very much appreciate a copy of the curves. Seems to me that there must be 
something in our setups that doesn't quite work right relative to Paul's and 
others but I have no idea what it might be.

I am using  98 2nd edition with PS 6.

Thanks again.

Bill


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