Digital BW, The Print

It was quite easy..

All I needed to do using Clayton's Method was limit the grey output via 
curves to 97% for 100% input..

No more bronzing and I keep the deep blacks... Given the small amount of 
ruboff, I'd recommend spraying with a fixative after curing..

Print looks GREAT though, I REALLY like the look of this paper with BO 
(Clayton, you've got me eating my earlier words of disdain for the BO 
workflow)..  It does look VERY much like a ferrotyped B&W Fiber print.. 
(let's hope I can find a fixative that doesn't alter that - anyone have 
a suggestion of one?)

However, the sepia toned inks are another issue entirely... Will try and 
tweak curves that lower it enough to allow a more Roark-like workflow 
that uses more of the tonal/color capabilities of this and the VM  set..

Of course, this may all be mooted for me once I start using the UT v2 
inkset, but that's another issue.. Some may still find themselves using 
the VM sets, and this hopefully gives them a viable glossy option..

I'll email the curve and instructions to Martin Wesley for posting in 
the files section..  I'll also send a copy to Oriental and MIS, in case 
they want to post it..

-- 

 
Keith Krebs

"Just some guy," and caretaker of the Multiverse's largest EPSON printer 
User Community (highly recommended by Vogon Poets and MegaDodo 
Publications), at:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/EPSON_Printers/
 
"For the rest of you out there, the secret is to bang the rocks together 
guys"

 




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

PremierArt spray will protect the image without altering the surface 
characteristics. I just tried it a couple of days ago on the Oriental 
paper.

Also, the UT inks work quite well on the Oriental paper, though I 
prefer the look on Epson Glossy Paper Photo Weight (aka Epson 
Professional Glossy Paper). I have made curves for the UT inks on 
glossy paper using a 1280 printer. Contact me if interested.

Dirk Hobman
dhobman@...


--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Editor P.O.V. 
Image Service" <editor@p...> wrote:
> It was quite easy..
> 
> All I needed to do using Clayton's Method was limit the grey output 
via 
> curves to 97% for 100% input..
> 
> No more bronzing and I keep the deep blacks... Given the small 
amount of 
> ruboff, I'd recommend spraying with a fixative after curing..
> 
> Print looks GREAT though, I REALLY like the look of this paper with 
BO 
> (Clayton, you've got me eating my earlier words of disdain for the 
BO 
> workflow)..  It does look VERY much like a ferrotyped B&W Fiber 
print.. 
> (let's hope I can find a fixative that doesn't alter that - anyone 
have 
> a suggestion of one?)
> 
> However, the sepia toned inks are another issue entirely... Will 
try and 
> tweak curves that lower it enough to allow a more Roark-like 
workflow 
> that uses more of the tonal/color capabilities of this and the VM  
set..
> 
> Of course, this may all be mooted for me once I start using the UT 
v2 
> inkset, but that's another issue.. Some may still find themselves 
using 
> the VM sets, and this hopefully gives them a viable glossy option..
> 
> I'll email the curve and instructions to Martin Wesley for posting 
in 
> the files section..  I'll also send a copy to Oriental and MIS, in 
case 
> they want to post it..
> 
> -- 
> 
>  
> Keith Krebs
> 
> "Just some guy," and caretaker of the Multiverse's largest EPSON 
printer 
> User Community (highly recommended by Vogon Poets and MegaDodo 
> Publications), at:
> 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/EPSON_Printers/
>  
> "For the rest of you out there, the secret is to bang the rocks 
together 

> guys"
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

dirkhobman wrote:

>PremierArt spray will protect the image without altering the surface 
>characteristics. I just tried it a couple of days ago on the Oriental 
>paper.
>  
>
Thanks MUCH for the recommendation!!

Now I need to find a good price for the spray!

 
Keith Krebs

"Just some guy," and caretaker of the Multiverse's largest EPSON printer 
User Community (highly recommended by Vogon Poets and MegaDodo 
Publications), at:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/EPSON_Printers/
 
"For the rest of you out there, the secret is to bang the rocks together 
guys"

dirkhobman wrote:

>Also, the UT inks work quite well on the Oriental paper, though I 
>prefer the look on Epson Glossy Paper Photo Weight (aka Epson 
>Professional Glossy Paper). I have made curves for the UT inks on 
>glossy paper using a 1280 printer. Contact me if interested.
>  
>
1)    Do you find that the UTs still need spraying with the FB and EPSON 
Glossy Paper Photo?

2)    Tried the UTs on any of the Ilford Smooth Gloss or Smooth Pearl?

 
Keith Krebs

"Just some guy," and caretaker of the Multiverse's largest EPSON printer 
User Community (highly recommended by Vogon Poets and MegaDodo 
Publications), at:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/EPSON_Printers/
 
"For the rest of you out there, the secret is to bang the rocks together 
guys"

Keith,

The image is pretty stable with the UT inks. It will rub off slightly 
if you run your finger across it with a little pressure, but one 
wouldn't do that normally anyhow. 

The main reason I find the overspray to be useful is that it 
completely removes any issues of odd reflectance - i.e. bronzing (if 
there is any - it depends on the paper) and disparities between areas 
where ink has been laid down and where there is little to no ink. The 
PremierArt spray has archival value as well, according to Wilhelm.

I think I did try the UT inks on the Ilford papers. However, I tested 
them on a great many papers, and I'm not sure how well they worked on 
those particular two. I will look later and see if I can find past 
samples.

Regards,
Dirk


--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Editor P.O.V. 
Image Service" <editor@p...> wrote:
> dirkhobman wrote:
> 
> >Also, the UT inks work quite well on the Oriental paper, though I 
> >prefer the look on Epson Glossy Paper Photo Weight (aka Epson 
> >Professional Glossy Paper). I have made curves for the UT inks on 
> >glossy paper using a 1280 printer. Contact me if interested.
> >  
> >
> 1)    Do you find that the UTs still need spraying with the FB and 
EPSON 
> Glossy Paper Photo?
> 
> 2)    Tried the UTs on any of the Ilford Smooth Gloss or Smooth 
Pearl?
> 
>  
> Keith Krebs
> 
> "Just some guy," and caretaker of the Multiverse's largest EPSON 
printer 
> User Community (highly recommended by Vogon Poets and MegaDodo 
> Publications), at:
> 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/EPSON_Printers/
>  
> "For the rest of you out there, the secret is to bang the rocks 
together 
> guys"

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com, "Editor P.O.V. 
Image Service" <editor@p...> wrote:
> It was quite easy..
> 
> All I needed to do using Clayton's Method was limit the grey output 
via 
> curves to 97% for 100% input..
> 
> No more bronzing and I keep the deep blacks... Given the small 
amount of 
> ruboff, ..snip...
> Keith Krebs
> 
Keith,

Your success with the Oriental FB Glossy gave me an idea to try BO 
printing using UT-Eboni on Epson Premium Luster Photo paper. (Epson 
1160 printer). Results: the bronzing level is so low as to be non-
existant. 

I also printed the same image using the full UT inkset. The print 
shows bronzing all over. Of course, there is rub off on both prints.
Cheers,
Andre

Hello Keith,

>Print looks GREAT though, I REALLY like the look of this paper 
>with BO (Clayton, you've got me eating my earlier words of disdain 
>for the BO workflow)..  It does look VERY much like a ferrotyped 
>B&W Fiber print.. 

That's good news, glad it's working out well.  It is surprising how
good a BO print can look with a bit of care.  I'm getting more
convinced that the image workup has a lot to do with it.  I recently
printed one of the early images I first worked up nearly two years ago
and was surprised to find it looking grainier than the 870 version. 
How could this be, when the 2200/2880 is producing much smoother
results?  Then I examined the histo and found lots of combs.  I think
I'll rescan the neg and do it all over again.  I know lots more now
about layers and other techniques than I did then.  It will be a good
experiment.   Still lots to learn.

BTW, have you tried Eboni with BO?  It's really pretty stuff.


Regards,
Clayton


Info on black and white digital printing at    
http://www.cjcom.net/digiprnarts.htm