Yahoo Groups archive

Digital BW, The Print

Index last updated: 2026-04-28 22:56 UTC

Thread

Glass Glass Glass

Glass Glass Glass

2001-10-15 by Nij

Hi all,

Recently, we have heard mention of several different tpes of glass. At
least:
* Glass (the normal kind)
* Glass [green tinted] (the kind to avoid)
* Anti-glare (I thought this required to be in-contact with the print, and
therefore A Bad Thing???)
* Plexi-glass (presumably, 'Plastic Flexible 'glass'??? - is nice and
light-weight)
* UV Blocking glass
* No Glass!!!
* others???

I realise that these are 'characteristics' or properties of a material that
may be mutually exclusive, or shared in some cases. e.g. Does plexi block
UV?

I was recently told that 'normal' glass blocks about 42% of UV light. How
much does 'UV blocking' glass block? And how much more expensive than normal
glass is it?

I'd really appreciate some feedback on this to appreciate if I am correct
about anti-glare being something you have to place on the print... if when I
ask for UV-blocking glass, I am really asking for plexi (does plexi scratch
more easily than 'glass'?)

Is UV-blocking worth it for mormally mounted prints? Is it worth it for shop
window-mounted?

etc.

All feedback appreciated!

Happy printing,
Nij

Nigel Rheam
MWORDS Limited   www.mwords.co.uk

Re: [Digital BW] Glass Glass Glass

2001-10-16 by Steadman Uhlich

Nigel, 

You can buy many types of glass to use for fine art or windows.  

1.  Non-glare glass does not work well if separated by more than one inch from print.  This also can come in a UV blocking version.  It "softens" the image a little but when only a mat board distance from the art it looks good.  Not very expensive but premium price. 

2.  Non-reflective glass (museum glass) does work well at just about any distance.  This glass is very expensive and is similar to "non-reflective" lenses used in eyeglasses...you don't "see" the glass at all when looking into it.  Does not soften the image at all.  IF you have a landscape with exquisite details...buy this one.

3.  UV protection is result of a coating applied to glass as in a film.  Invisible to eye.  The brand of glass I use claims 95% blocking of UV rays. 

4.  Plexiglass is a type of plastic. Can have UV characteristics but not necessarily.  

5.  "Arcylic" is another plastic like choice.  Lightweight and may come in a UV blocking form.  Easily scratched when handled and even scratched if cleaned vigorously.  Best for shipping via truck or traveling exhibits.

6.  "Green glass" is the cheap stuff used in windows.  Has a green tint or cast.  This is what the local framer is going to sell you for cheap...or it comes in "ready made" cheap frames. 

7.  There are some types of glass available that have highly clear characteristics...they are purchased by museums so the color of print/art is accurate.  This glass is expensive.  Sometimes the most expensive if also UV blocking.

8.  All of these glass choices are available to the individual artist.  Check with a local professional framer who should have sources.  

Warning:  many framers charge an arm and a leg for the premium glass and most do not carry it at all.  They usually use the cheap stuff for 90% of all framed artwork.  They are reluctant to sell the expensive stuff because they usually have to purchase a case of it or large quantity...and they don't get many demanding customers (who know what to look for).  They will also likely put a high markup on the better glass.  Be very demanding.  

I suggest you purchase a case (or cut down large pieces) of the glass yourself in the size that fits your own work.  That way you will have it handy when you need to put something behind glass.  If you have a commercial license, you should be able to purchase at wholesale price.  

For the most elegant and "eyecatching" look, I recommend the "museum glass anti-reflection" type of glass.  When you have a print behind this glass, you don't see the glass at all....it becomes invisible.  Really.  This is most beneficial to the person selling the art.  The framer doesnt care about this.  For art exhibits, this glass is what I would buy and use in my own frames that I would keep.  Warning:  once you buy this glass and have your prints behind it (say at home) you won't want to buy anything else for your own art prints...it will spoil you.

Framed prints for sale, depends on what the buyer wants to spend. 

Steadman
Show quoted textHide quoted text
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Nij 
  To: DigitalBW 
  Sent: Monday, October 15, 2001 6:56 PM
  Subject: [Digital BW] Glass Glass Glass


  Hi all,

  Recently, we have heard mention of several different tpes of glass. At
  least:
  * Glass (the normal kind)
  * Glass [green tinted] (the kind to avoid)
  * Anti-glare (I thought this required to be in-contact with the print, and
  therefore A Bad Thing???)
  * Plexi-glass (presumably, 'Plastic Flexible 'glass'??? - is nice and
  light-weight)
  * UV Blocking glass
  * No Glass!!!
  * others???

  I realise that these are 'characteristics' or properties of a material that
  may be mutually exclusive, or shared in some cases. e.g. Does plexi block
  UV?

  I was recently told that 'normal' glass blocks about 42% of UV light. How
  much does 'UV blocking' glass block? And how much more expensive than normal
  glass is it?

  I'd really appreciate some feedback on this to appreciate if I am correct
  about anti-glare being something you have to place on the print... if when I
  ask for UV-blocking glass, I am really asking for plexi (does plexi scratch
  more easily than 'glass'?)

  Is UV-blocking worth it for mormally mounted prints? Is it worth it for shop
  window-mounted?

  etc.

  All feedback appreciated!

  Happy printing,
  Nij

  Nigel Rheam
  MWORDS Limited   www.mwords.co.uk


  Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:

  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint

  Please follow these basic guidelines:
  - Include your full name with your message.
  - Include the address of your website, if you have one.
  - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep them short.
  - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject header.
  - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or "flames."
  - Complete your Yahoo profile.
  - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the various resources on the homepage. 




  Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: [Digital BW] Glass Glass Glass

2001-10-16 by Todd Flashner

Nij

I'm no expert but I'll fill in with what I understand.

> I realise that these are 'characteristics' or properties of a material that
> may be mutually exclusive, or shared in some cases. e.g. Does plexi block
> UV?

I've seen UV blocking Plexi for sale at higher prices than regular plexi.
Pearl Paint in NYC is one such place.
  
> I'd really appreciate some feedback on this to appreciate if I am correct
> about anti-glare being something you have to place on the print...
I don't think non-glare glass need be in contact with the print. It just has
a textured surface, like an anti-Newton glass, which scatters the light
differently. I actually find it's reflections to be broader (Diffuse, and
caused by light coming in from more obtuse angles) than normal glass and
therefore more troublesome.

> if when I
> ask for UV-blocking glass, I am really asking for plexi (does plexi scratch
> more easily than 'glass'?)

Plexi is DEFINITELY scratch prone. Only clean with plastic cleansers like
Brillianize, or Novus, and very soft cloth, like old T-shirts.

Todd

Re: [Digital BW] Glass Glass Glass

2001-10-16 by ternahan

The UV blocking plexi costs more than regulare plexi which is priced by
thickness and size. Same is true of glass, Sometimes UV blocking glass and
plexi are refered to as museum glass(plexi). I think Light Impressions
carries both if you want to check a high end price.
Anti-glare glass is,IMHO, only good for graphite drawings viewed in shadow.
It's REALLY annoying...you have to stand in exactly the right
location-distance/angle to see anything at all.
Yes plexi scratches...but glass chips and breaks and ruins things when it
does. There is material available for buffing out scratches in plexi.
Is UV worth it?  It's up to you. For me, with the art I keep and value, yes!
For a show? I don't with silver, but will with
carbon-piezo-quadtone-fineart-notgiclee-tirage-work.

t
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> From: "Nij" <nigel@...>
> Reply-To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 00:56:03 +0100
> To: "DigitalBW" <DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: [Digital BW] Glass Glass Glass
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Recently, we have heard mention of several different tpes of glass. At
> least:
> * Glass (the normal kind)
> * Glass [green tinted] (the kind to avoid)
> * Anti-glare (I thought this required to be in-contact with the print, and
> therefore A Bad Thing???)
> * Plexi-glass (presumably, 'Plastic Flexible 'glass'??? - is nice and
> light-weight)
> * UV Blocking glass
> * No Glass!!!
> * others???
> 
> I realise that these are 'characteristics' or properties of a material that
> may be mutually exclusive, or shared in some cases. e.g. Does plexi block
> UV?
> 
> I was recently told that 'normal' glass blocks about 42% of UV light. How
> much does 'UV blocking' glass block? And how much more expensive than normal
> glass is it?
> 
> I'd really appreciate some feedback on this to appreciate if I am correct
> about anti-glare being something you have to place on the print... if when I
> ask for UV-blocking glass, I am really asking for plexi (does plexi scratch
> more easily than 'glass'?)
> 
> Is UV-blocking worth it for mormally mounted prints? Is it worth it for shop
> window-mounted?
> 
> etc.
> 
> All feedback appreciated!
> 
> Happy printing,
> Nij
> 
> Nigel Rheam
> MWORDS Limited   www.mwords.co.uk
> 
> 
> Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and other
> resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:
> 
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint
> 
> Please follow these basic guidelines:
> - Include your full name with your message.
> - Include the address of your website, if you have one.
> - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep
> them short.
> - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject header.
> - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or "flames."
> - Complete your Yahoo profile.
> - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the various
> resources on the homepage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> 
>

Re: [Digital BW] Glass Glass Glass

2001-10-16 by lyonscox@mindspring.com

I want to completely agree with Steadman in his post on glass...in 
fact I would like Martin to archive it for reference.

The Vermeer show in Washington DC (not the lesser show in NY last 
year, sneer ;-) ) had the pieces behind glass and you would have only 
noticed it at certain angles at best.

The Balthazar Castiligone by Rapheal in the Louvre is behind glass, 
opposite a window and not once got in my way of devoting hours to 
this piece.

I say behind glass - they are behind museum glass which as Steadman 
states, once you allow yourself to use it, you'll hesitate to use 
anything else (I don't if I can at all afford it).

Crystal View and Denn glass are trade names, though Denn glass is 
the 'museum glass' and Crystal View when I last checked didn't have 
much UV screening to it.

Why use a protective "glass"?  For the same reasons you use quality 
materials in the rest of the process.  You are creating an object.  
Framing can be part of that objects viewing.  The other is to show 
your prints by hand, unframed then, like serving wine to guests at 
dinner, with affection, care & enthusiasm.

Cleavis.

--- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "Steadman Uhlich" 
<steadmanuhlich@k...> wrote:
> Nigel, 
> 
> You can buy many types of glass to use for fine art or windows.  
> 
> 1.  Non-glare glass does not work well if separated by more than 
one inch from print.  This also can come in a UV blocking version.  
It "softens" the image a little but when only a mat board distance 
from the art it looks good.  Not very expensive but premium price. 
> 
> 2.  Non-reflective glass (museum glass) does work well at just 
about any distance.  This glass is very expensive and is similar 
to "non-reflective" lenses used in eyeglasses...you don't "see" the 
glass at all when looking into it.  Does not soften the image at 
all.  IF you have a landscape with exquisite details...buy this one.
> 
> 3.  UV protection is result of a coating applied to glass as in a 
film.  Invisible to eye.  The brand of glass I use claims 95% 
blocking of UV rays. 
> 
> 4.  Plexiglass is a type of plastic. Can have UV characteristics 
but not necessarily.  
> 
> 5.  "Arcylic" is another plastic like choice.  Lightweight and may 
come in a UV blocking form.  Easily scratched when handled and even 
scratched if cleaned vigorously.  Best for shipping via truck or 
traveling exhibits.
> 
> 6.  "Green glass" is the cheap stuff used in windows.  Has a green 
tint or cast.  This is what the local framer is going to sell you for 
cheap...or it comes in "ready made" cheap frames. 
> 
> 7.  There are some types of glass available that have highly clear 
characteristics...they are purchased by museums so the color of 
print/art is accurate.  This glass is expensive.  Sometimes the most 
expensive if also UV blocking.
> 
> 8.  All of these glass choices are available to the individual 
artist.  Check with a local professional framer who should have 
sources.  
> 
> Warning:  many framers charge an arm and a leg for the premium 
glass and most do not carry it at all.  They usually use the cheap 
stuff for 90% of all framed artwork.  They are reluctant to sell the 
expensive stuff because they usually have to purchase a case of it or 
large quantity...and they don't get many demanding customers (who 
know what to look for).  They will also likely put a high markup on 
the better glass.  Be very demanding.  
> 
> I suggest you purchase a case (or cut down large pieces) of the 
glass yourself in the size that fits your own work.  That way you 
will have it handy when you need to put something behind glass.  If 
you have a commercial license, you should be able to purchase at 
wholesale price.  
> 
> For the most elegant and "eyecatching" look, I recommend 
the "museum glass anti-reflection" type of glass.  When you have a 
print behind this glass, you don't see the glass at all....it becomes 
invisible.  Really.  This is most beneficial to the person selling 
the art.  The framer doesnt care about this.  For art exhibits, this 
glass is what I would buy and use in my own frames that I would 
keep.  Warning:  once you buy this glass and have your prints behind 
it (say at home) you won't want to buy anything else for your own art 
prints...it will spoil you.
Show quoted textHide quoted text
> 
> Framed prints for sale, depends on what the buyer wants to spend. 
> 
> Steadman
>

Re: [Digital BW] Glass Glass Glass

2001-10-16 by Steadman Uhlich

Cleavis,

Good Points about how the museums use this stuff.  

I also liked your comments about sharing the prints like a fine wine. Well put. "Affection, care, and enthusiasm."  Perfect!

Steadman
Show quoted textHide quoted text
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: lyonscox@... 
  To: DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, October 15, 2001 10:51 PM
  Subject: Re: [Digital BW] Glass Glass Glass


  I want to completely agree with Steadman in his post on glass...in 
  fact I would like Martin to archive it for reference.

  The Vermeer show in Washington DC (not the lesser show in NY last 
  year, sneer ;-) ) had the pieces behind glass and you would have only 
  noticed it at certain angles at best.

  The Balthazar Castiligone by Rapheal in the Louvre is behind glass, 
  opposite a window and not once got in my way of devoting hours to 
  this piece.

  I say behind glass - they are behind museum glass which as Steadman 
  states, once you allow yourself to use it, you'll hesitate to use 
  anything else (I don't if I can at all afford it).

  Crystal View and Denn glass are trade names, though Denn glass is 
  the 'museum glass' and Crystal View when I last checked didn't have 
  much UV screening to it.

  Why use a protective "glass"?  For the same reasons you use quality 
  materials in the rest of the process.  You are creating an object.  
  Framing can be part of that objects viewing.  The other is to show 
  your prints by hand, unframed then, like serving wine to guests at 
  dinner, with affection, care & enthusiasm.

  Cleavis.

  --- In DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint@y..., "Steadman Uhlich" 
  <steadmanuhlich@k...> wrote:
  > Nigel, 
  > 
  > You can buy many types of glass to use for fine art or windows.  
  > 
  > 1.  Non-glare glass does not work well if separated by more than 
  one inch from print.  This also can come in a UV blocking version.  
  It "softens" the image a little but when only a mat board distance 
  from the art it looks good.  Not very expensive but premium price. 
  > 
  > 2.  Non-reflective glass (museum glass) does work well at just 
  about any distance.  This glass is very expensive and is similar 
  to "non-reflective" lenses used in eyeglasses...you don't "see" the 
  glass at all when looking into it.  Does not soften the image at 
  all.  IF you have a landscape with exquisite details...buy this one.
  > 
  > 3.  UV protection is result of a coating applied to glass as in a 
  film.  Invisible to eye.  The brand of glass I use claims 95% 
  blocking of UV rays. 
  > 
  > 4.  Plexiglass is a type of plastic. Can have UV characteristics 
  but not necessarily.  
  > 
  > 5.  "Arcylic" is another plastic like choice.  Lightweight and may 
  come in a UV blocking form.  Easily scratched when handled and even 
  scratched if cleaned vigorously.  Best for shipping via truck or 
  traveling exhibits.
  > 
  > 6.  "Green glass" is the cheap stuff used in windows.  Has a green 
  tint or cast.  This is what the local framer is going to sell you for 
  cheap...or it comes in "ready made" cheap frames. 
  > 
  > 7.  There are some types of glass available that have highly clear 
  characteristics...they are purchased by museums so the color of 
  print/art is accurate.  This glass is expensive.  Sometimes the most 
  expensive if also UV blocking.
  > 
  > 8.  All of these glass choices are available to the individual 
  artist.  Check with a local professional framer who should have 
  sources.  
  > 
  > Warning:  many framers charge an arm and a leg for the premium 
  glass and most do not carry it at all.  They usually use the cheap 
  stuff for 90% of all framed artwork.  They are reluctant to sell the 
  expensive stuff because they usually have to purchase a case of it or 
  large quantity...and they don't get many demanding customers (who 
  know what to look for).  They will also likely put a high markup on 
  the better glass.  Be very demanding.  
  > 
  > I suggest you purchase a case (or cut down large pieces) of the 
  glass yourself in the size that fits your own work.  That way you 
  will have it handy when you need to put something behind glass.  If 
  you have a commercial license, you should be able to purchase at 
  wholesale price.  
  > 
  > For the most elegant and "eyecatching" look, I recommend 
  the "museum glass anti-reflection" type of glass.  When you have a 
  print behind this glass, you don't see the glass at all....it becomes 
  invisible.  Really.  This is most beneficial to the person selling 
  the art.  The framer doesnt care about this.  For art exhibits, this 
  glass is what I would buy and use in my own frames that I would 
  keep.  Warning:  once you buy this glass and have your prints behind 
  it (say at home) you won't want to buy anything else for your own art 
  prints...it will spoil you.
  > 
  > Framed prints for sale, depends on what the buyer wants to spend. 
  > 
  > Steadman
  > 


        Yahoo! Groups Sponsor 
              ADVERTISEMENT
             
       
       

  Please visit the Group Homepage to check the Files, Bookmarks, Polls and other resources as they are often being updated. The page is at:

  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint

  Please follow these basic guidelines:
  - Include your full name with your message.
  - Include the address of your website, if you have one.
  - As threads develop, trim off excess portions of earlier messages to keep them short.
  - As the topic of a thread changes remember to change the subject header.
  - Good manners are required at all time. No personal attacks or "flames."
  - Complete your Yahoo profile.
  - Before posting a question, search the message archives and the various resources on the homepage. 




  Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Move to quarantaine

This moves the raw source file on disk only. The archive index is not changed automatically, so you still need to run a manual refresh afterward.